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front wheels spin way to much, what should i do?

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jenkins1424

jenkins1424

RC Newbie
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RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
recently i put a center diff in. now my front wheels are spinning out of control. should i put heavier diff oil in the center to fix this,and what weight should i use. it looks way thick already.
 
I would say the 500k would be good for the center diff and a heavier oil in the front diff than you have in the rear. That will help transfer the power to the rear.
 
if you can't find 500k (its notoriously hard to find) you can use Silly Putty!!!! its even stiffer but it gives the perfect diff action! and its primarily a silicate, and will not harm your diff in any way! actually its also a non newtonian fluid!!!! which means when the difff really spins up it resists even harder!!!! i did it myself with super awesome results!!!!!!!!!!
Cool huh?
 
Lessen said:
Some people impress themselves more by how smart they make themselves sound rather than how smart they actually are. This guy might understand what he's talking about but fails to realize it's like teaching trigonometry to a 3rd grader.
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err it wasn't my intention to make people feel stupid, it was just as technical as explaining fuel//air ratios, final drive ratios and other stuff in our hobby. i just assumed people knew what a Non newtonian fluid is. they are like everywhere. your blood is a non newtonian fluid.

Basically whats unique to silly putty is the more agitated it gets the harder it resists being agitated. so if your truck has a center diff filled with silly putty, it resists like a really heavy diff oil if you are driving along. but if the front wheels are ballooning up and the rears are stationary (the problem the original poster pointed out) the silly putty will stiffen up even more making it the perfect addition to the revo center diff. i would not lock the front or the rear with this method though because they will potentially fail from it.

i hope this clears things up. and to Lessen specifically, that sort of attitude is uncalled for. just because you dont understand a new concept doesn't mean that the information is misrepresented or that the person giving it is 'trying to seem smarter than they are'



heres some other threads on this concept.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/489718-center-diff-locker-rc8-based-vehicles.html

http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-79547.html
 
ha.. you think silly puddy in the diffs is a new concept? That was old news back when i started in RC like 9 years ago.

don your post did come off the way lessen described, even if you didnt mean it to. Not everyone knows what a silicate is, or how a newtonian fluid works. Honesty, you could have relayed the info just fine without those "big words", or at least put in some verbiage explain a little about it. it could be an interesting subject, if you put a little more info in the post.
 
There are some terms that are obviously related to the hobby which even if one doesn't understand, will more than likely be aware is relevant. Non-newtonian fluid is not one that strikes me (and lets face it, the vast majority of us) as being obviously relevant. I figured you knew what you were talking about because I took the liberty of doing a little research because I had the deer in headlights look just as Phins Fan did. My comment was not intended to point out that you were "trying" to look smarter than you are, but simply that you got caught up in the science and kind of lost sight of what is common knowledge and what is not. All in all I was just picking on you for the fun of it :) Loosen up :D
 
Having used a lot of types of fluid in the revo CD (including the silly putty and plumbers putty) I can tell you from experience that they both work, but…

Both the silly/plumbers putty, much like all non silicon oils/grease are affected by temperature change to a larger degree than a silicon diff/shock lube/oil is.

Eliminating any ambient temperature change, the silly/plumbers putty both start out rather stiff (high viscosity). As you run the RC the action of the diff adds heat and the silly/plumbers putty becomes more fluid (lower viscosity) and the diff action changes.

Add to that a cold or warm ambient temperature and the diff action can vary greatly from one day to the next and from the start of a 10 lap qualifier to the finish.

Most people running a CD in the revo do it for 1 reason; racing on a track where having a consistent diff action would be of a better benefit. Most bashers don’t use a CD.

If the OP is not already using it, the ERevo diff cup and internals can be used in place of the old type revo diff cup. The I beam cross bar support helps to reduce the internal volume of the diff cup and allow you to use a lighter weight diff lube to get the same diff action as a heavier lube in the non I beam diff cup. Due to the diff only having 4 spider gears you will still want 500K and up lube for either diff though.
 
I am not a racer and really never have been but my Revo has had a center diff most of the time I have owned it because I wanted the better braking that the rear brake gives.
 
if you are more of a basher then a racer then try 50K front and rear diff 500K in center, works good for me, hope this helps
 
Well.....for what it is worth. I fill the center with 100 to 500K and the front and rear with 10-20k and fill me with beer and what ever else happens is water under the bridge. Unless my Revo is what ends up IN the water under the bridge due to the beer then we will deal with that as it comes.
 
frickenjoey said:
Well.....for what it is worth. I fill the center with 100 to 500K and the front and rear with 10-20k and fill me with beer and what ever else happens is water under the bridge. Unless my Revo is what ends up IN the water under the bridge due to the beer then we will deal with that as it comes.
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I gave up drinking all most 4 years ago but that's ok you can have mine and remined me to stay away from that bridge onto I get a boat

:hehe: cheers
 

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