Flux differentials shimming

[wacmartin]

Does anyone know/have a good video on shimming the diffs on a savage flux?
I watched savagejunkies on youtube it, it seems to be the best, but I was wondering if anybody had something better with a person actually talking.

 

[sur3fir3]

here is a good vid

 

[wacmartin]

Yeah that's the one I was talking about by savagejunky. Seems easy enough, this is the first time I've ever shimmed any diff and didn't want to fudge up 2 $45 BP diffs.

 

[sur3fir3]

my fault i didnt see that. sometimes I get ahead of myself when looking through my bookmarks.

 

[wacmartin]

Not a problem at all, thanks for the help though. I can't do it until next week now anyways, wife started a project that she couldn't finish last night so guess who had to and guess who's project got pushed to the backburner. Anyways now I'm off to the parents cottage until Monday, wanted to bring the Savage, there's a huge dirt pit down the street still might the diffs ain't ruined yet but they might be by the end of this week.

 

[wacmartin]

When shimming the diffs do I want to leave any play at all? I've got 4 on each side and still have a little bit of play on one side, and almost none on the other side.

Also I never really understood why where shimming. Like I know it's to get rid of the excessive play in the diff, but does it benefit the internal gears or the bigger external spider/pinion gear? I just want to know what exactly I'm going for here.

 

[Snook Man]

You want to have “0” play side to side once you find the sweet spot.
Shimming the diff side to side in the housing only benifits/sets the mesh/lash between the ring and beveled pinion; it has no effect on the spiders inside the cup.

The object is to move the diff side to side with shims so to have only the slightest gap between the ring gear on the cup and the input pinion gear. Once you find the sweet spot if you still have any play you would want to fill in the gap with more shims to prevent the diff from moving to that side and creating more of a gap (loose mesh) or less of a gap (tight mesh).

I will also add that I always 1st before shimming the diff side to side, is to shim the bevel pinion if needed. With pinion installed in the housing and the drive cup attached, if there is any in/out play of the pinion I shim it to where there is “0” play with no binding.

 

[wacmartin]

So ideally I'm going for no side to side play on the diff cups so the diff doesn't move inside the bulkhead causing the big ring gear to be to loose or tight against the pinion gear?

I never heard about shimming the pinion gear, do you know of any tutorial on how to do this?

 

[Alexander_0_1]

It's all in the feel, your gonna have to keep re-assembling the bulkheads with the diffs inside until you get it perfect....perfect for one bulkhead might not be the same for another bulkhead I.e the front one