First Stadium Truck build

[Kyle Druktenis]

Hello I’m waiting to start racing in the stadium truck class and I’m wondering what’s a good set up that’s not too pricey, I have lot of experence in the rc world but dont know what to get. All the cars I have were RTR now I'm wanting to build my own, Thanks!

 

[DavidB1126]

I don't have much experience with stadium trucks my self. I think that most of the stadium trucks kits are all 2wd. Most of the kits are outdated too since stadium truck isn't a popular class like 2wd buggy. TLR, Team Associated, and Xray makes stadium trucks. Xray models get updated every year. I'll look more into them for you too. I also believe that the stadium truck stock class is either 17.5 or 13.5 turn motors.
TLRs current ST is the 22T. http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=TLR03015

The current AE ST is the RC10 T6.2
https://www.associatedelectrics.com/teamassociated/cars_and_trucks/RC10T6.2/Team/

The current Xray ST is the XT2 23 https://teamxray.com/xt2/2023/en/

Xray is one of the higher end kits costing the most. I would go for the associated.

Also depends on what surface you are driving on and depends what your local hobby shop stocks.
Also depends on what people run too. For example if they run mostly associated and TLR I would go between the 2 so you can have extra parts and have help if needed.
Something to note. Xray has 2 models for the XT2. One D and one C. D for dirt and C for carpet.

 

[tntpoof]

best thing to do is go to the track you plan n racing at.see what the podium sitters are running. there is no low cost options.see what trucks are supported so you can buy parts

 

[DavidB1126]

Here is another option

Schumacher Storm ST https://www.racing-cars.com/rc-mode...eturnurl=/rc-models-2/cars/cars-scale=1-10th/

Schumacher is based in the UK and this car is more for carpet racing (since they do alot of carpet racing in the UK, but still could drive on clay/dirt)
It really depends on what you are doing. Carpet/Astro turf or clay/dirt. Also depends on what parts availability you have and what other people run at your local track.

 

[Kyle Druktenis]

Here is another option

Schumacher Storm ST https://www.racing-cars.com/rc-models-2/cars/cars-scale=1-10th/storm-st-kit-k186?returnurl=/rc-models-2/cars/cars-scale=1-10th/

Schumacher is based in the UK and this car is more for carpet racing (since they do alot of carpet racing in the UK, but still could drive on clay/dirt)
It really depends on what you are doing. Carpet/Astro turf or clay/dirt. Also depends on what parts availability you have and what other people run at your local track.

I go to a trades school so we have a RC club, we are building a track. If anything I would be racing on dirt and I dont have any tracks to close to me, other than a bike track.

The chassis I would probably go with is the Team Associated T6.2, the electronics idk, i want to run 13.5t

 

[DavidB1126]

Nice. I would go for the associated. For electronics I would get a Hobbywing XR10 justock 13.5 combo. For batteries I would look at Maclan, SMC, and Trinity shorty packs. Some chassis can do low profile packs which are a little less heavier and shorter in height. CHNL is also a battery brand too. For 1/10 racing there are only 2s lipos. There is a normal 7.4v lipo or there is LiHV (Lipo High voltage) which is 7.6v. For servo I use this Xpert 4000 in my 4wd buggy and works just fine. Plenty of speed and torque. Another option is the power hd B4. For radio, you would need a 4+ channel receiver. 1 channel for a transponder and 1 other channel for a motor fan. You can technically use a radio you already have from your bashers but I recommend getting a cheap radio to start out with. Radiolink is a good starter radio. I have the RC4GS V3 and its a good radio (besides the plastic) I'm currently using that for my 4wd buggy. I plan to upgrade to a mid range Futaba (4pm).

I go to a trades school so we have a RC club, we are building a track. If anything I would be racing on dirt and I dont have any tracks to close to me, other than a bike track.

Any local hobby shops for extra parts? If not I would stock up on parts from online.

 

[DavidB1126]

Another thing is tires and wheels. Most of these kits don't come with wheels. Here are wheels for the T6.2

I don't have experience with dirt tires but dirt tires look like this

These are short course tires but the tread can apply for stadium truck.

 

[tntpoof]

id again go to the track and see how many milliamps the other guys are using in a race then id add 1/3 on that amount and buy a battery of my own. I used the SMC brand for years and never had a issue. Id also look at the tekin brand esc nothing gives you the options as a tekin many people that went hobbywing have now left that brand..get a heavy duty servo saver that will save you when you crash.2.2" tires fit the stadium truck rims

 

[DavidB1126]

get a heavy duty servo saver that will save you when you crash

I run a AE 25t aluminum servo arm/horn on my buggy. Ran TLR 22 25t aluminum servo arm/horn on my bashers. Never burned or went through servos. Maybe because of luck or I am a great driver? I have no idea.

Id also look at the tekin brand esc nothing gives you the options as a tekin many people that went hobbywing have now left that brand

Tekin is a good brand. Most of the people at my local track runs hobbywing so I went with hobbywing. I also have the programmer already so theres another reason i went to HW.

how many milliamps the other guys are using in a race then id add 1/3 on that amount and buy a battery of my own. I used the SMC brand for years and never had a issue.

I have 61000 7.6 packs for my buggy. Haven't really tested them out but they should last a whole main and 1 qualifier before back on the charger. I have 2 SMC 7200 stick packs. My uncle gave them to me. They are 8 years old. Good IRs for the age. The 7200 packs I use in my slash and he used in his scte.

 

[Kyle Druktenis]

Nice. I would go for the associated. For electronics I would get a Hobbywing XR10 justock 13.5 combo. For batteries I would look at Maclan, SMC, and Trinity shorty packs. Some chassis can do low profile packs which are a little less heavier and shorter in height. CHNL is also a battery brand too. For 1/10 racing there are only 2s lipos. There is a normal 7.4v lipo or there is LiHV (Lipo High voltage) which is 7.6v. For servo I use this Xpert 4000 in my 4wd buggy and works just fine. Plenty of speed and torque. Another option is the power hd B4. For radio, you would need a 4+ channel receiver. 1 channel for a transponder and 1 other channel for a motor fan. You can technically use a radio you already have from your bashers but I recommend getting a cheap radio to start out with. Radiolink is a good starter radio. I have the RC4GS V3 and its a good radio (besides the plastic) I'm currently using that for my 4wd buggy. I plan to upgrade to a mid range Futaba (4pm).

Any local hobby shops for extra parts? If not I would stock up on parts from online.

Thank you so much, I'll look into them now Parts I would have to stock up from online, just got word that we are going to build 1/10 buggys for the club and my teacher is wanting me to find the stuff we need for it. This helps a lot, Thanks again.

 

[DavidB1126]

Something else I should note is if you are getting into racing. The battery bullets and motor wires have to be soldered. Its very different from RTR stuff. Having a good soldering job or having a friend that does soldering would be nice to the build. I had my uncle solder my motor and battery bullets. Not the best job but it works.

 

[Lukedavis]

Something else I should note is if you are getting into racing. The battery bullets and motor wires have to be soldered. Its very different from RTR stuff. Having a good soldering job or having a friend that does soldering would be nice to the build. I had my uncle solder my motor and battery bullets. Not the best job but it works.
View attachment 160297

On the battery bullets use heat tubing to make it look way nicer.

 

[tntpoof]

ill add this best to kept one battery wire very short when using battery bullets so reverse polarity hookups don't happen. Hurd a few guys in pit area have the magic smoke release in a hurried situation.

 

[DavidB1126]

ill add this best to kept one battery wire very short when using battery bullets so reverse polarity hookups don't happen. Hurd a few guys in pit area have the magic smoke release in a hurried situation.

That's what I did. Reverse polarity and that's how I fried my trx xl5 esc and that's how my uncle fried his XR10 Pro. Also if you keep one battery wire short and the other one long, you have to keep the battery in 1 position. I am going to try a different battery strap on my buggy since I don't like unscrewing a long screw inorder to get the battery out.
Also for the reverse polarity. Most escs come with a red indicator on the hot side so there why I left mine on.

 

[LosiFan143]

Get a used truck off of eBay and fix it up. A great challenge if you’re up for it.

 

[F.R.S. Ninja_007]

I have an ECX Circuit. It’s decent.

 

[WutUp Clegg]

So, what did you end up getting?