Essentials and a question

[LuckyJimMT2]

Having just gotten into nitro, what are the common essentials (i.e. spare parts to have in my box). It seems that since my 'minor mishap' in February, that I've had to constantly buy parts for it.
Now it seems the clutch is worn to the point where the motor winds up nicely, but the truck won't move. Looking at the clutch pads to order, I saw two types of springs. What's the advantage to different spring tensions? Just so I don't have to double post, and I feel like a :loser: asking this, is there another way to make sure the pads are worn without taking the clutch apart? (I don't want to spend any more $$$$ if I don't have to)

 

[RatzoRC]

Hey man. Welcome to the site.
It would help me if I knew what kind of car/truck your driving so I know what parts to suggest.
As for the clutch, the only way to know if there damaged is to look at them.
Other than that, if the car/truck wont move.........could be the clutch or slipper depending on what you driving.
And don't feel like a loser dude. We were all new at this at one point.

 

[jetmechG550]

As Ratzo said, need more info as to what truck your running and maybe even what mill you have. The clutch issue sounds more like a slipper clutch issue than a engine clutch issue. Could be solved by tightening it up some.

 

[LuckyJimMT2]

Thanks for the 'welcome'. I've gotten HEAPS of useful tips from the forum, primarily this one.
I've got an HPI Nitro MT2 RTR with the Nitro Star T-15 engine. I'm not sure what a 'mill' is as it pertains to nitro.

 

[dannyd]

one thing you should have in your box no matter what nitro you have is spare glow plugs. some spares for the one you have would be spare suspension arms, hubs and knuckles.

 

[jetmechG550]

Mill=engine. I'm not too familiar with common parts issues with that particular truck but usually I keep an extra set arms, axle carriers and such. Do you seem to be breaking the same parts all the time or different parts? The clutch problem would most likely be that your slipper is too loose. Revo starting baseline for a slipper is tighten it down all the way and then back it off about 1/8th - 1/4 turn. 1/4 turn being the max, unless your catching huge air and a lot of jumps. I race at a few places that don't have much in the way of spares or a hobby shop nearby so I carry the extreme when it comes to parts. I can almost completely build another Revo, I have quite a few extras for my XB8 and a few things for my LSP but plan to build on that since it's new.

 

[Karl M]

Hey Jimmy, I own an MT2 also. If you don't have one, get a screw kit and Locktite, and a couple of extra air filters. Toss the filters in a ziplock bag and filter oil, replace as needed. It maybe just me, but an extra set of steering knucles.

 

[LuckyJimMT2]

And I thought the mill had something to do with the porting of the piston sleeve...jeepers...lol I've got air filters, glo plugs, suspension arms. Even picked up an 100cc tank, an ignitor with a meter, stiffer springs and a slide linkage for the throttle. Heck, I even upgraded to a JR XR2i radio w/ JR servos (though I'm not sure which servo should steer vs throttle).
On a side note, I used something I learned to get a weed eater running today. It hadn't been used in months, and couldn't start it until I took the plug wire off, plugged the exhaust to prime the carb and it fired right up! I'd still be trying to start it if I hadn't learned how to prime it from you all! Thanks for the tips.