You have to shorten the end of the crankshaft by about 3mm, very easy with one quick zip of the dremel. You need to grind the insides of the motor mounts a bit for the block to fit between them, and then you have to grind a few places on the TRX EZ-Start to make it fit inside the crank case with no interference with the piston. You can do all of the mods in under 30 minutes. Faster if you just get a pull start Losi 3.4 and forgo the EZ-Start.
know when you say shorten the crank shaft...do you mean where the clutch bell and stuff is....if so wouldn't that remove the snap ring groove...
would any special tools or parts be needed....other than a dremel...
ok cool...i see now...but i have just realized something....
upon closer instpection of my disabled 3.3 from the t-maxx...i noticed something i didn't notice before....the groove in the block that the con rod travels through as it moves through the bottom part of its stroke...(i hope everyone know what I'm talkin about)...right at the point where the rod enters the groove there is a little nick in the block right at the center top part of the groove...looks like the rod has been contacting the block just a little...I'm sure this is a problem and its not like that in my other 3.3...but when i turn the crank nothing seems to hit...this may be different when the motor is actually running i suppose....but what would the problem be...bearings??con rod??both??....its such a tiny little nick i didn't even notice it before...one thing i find strange is the little groove that it has wore isn;t the width of the whole con rod...its about as wide as the head of an ink pen...seems that if it was gonna rub there it would be a wore spot the width of the whole rod....