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Dynomite Mach 2 .19 in my t maxx

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Rack74

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I am in the process of swapping out my 2.5 for a Dynomite Mach2 .19... I am having an issue with the clutch bell bearing not wanting to go onto the crank of the .19... the bearing that is on there is 5x11x4... do I need to try and find a 5x11x5 or I was thinking of maybe using some emery cloth and "buffing" down the crankshaft... I would appreciate any help or advice... Thanks :D
 
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maybe there's a bit of a burr on the end of the shaft ,possibly try a bit of sandpaper on there.if you change the size of the bearings it will cause endfloat issues and may damage the clutch or spur gar.
 
I worked on a maxx with the dyna .19 and I recall the stock cb and bearings on it, do not sand down the entire shaft!!!...like chickenman said there is most likely a small bur on the end of the shaft
 
I'm with Hotrod on this. My bud has a revo running the Mach.19 and it used the stocker bearings also. They are a really good engine for the price make sure you seal the carb up good the two I have ran both got air leaks at the carbs during break in.
 
I had this engine on one of my Revos and all the stock Traxxas motor parts directly transferred over!
 
Thanks guys it turns out there was a bur on the crankshaft..... I am excited to get this engine in and broken in.... Thanks for the help.. I am sure I will have more questions... lmao
 
Check out the heat cycle method of breaking an engine in, good article on it here
 
yeah I am trying to figure out what method to use for breaking in the engine... I have used the traxxas method and I wasn't to impressed with the results and plus the process seemed to be a pain in the butt... I have been doing some investigating into it and it is like the old school method but with a few added details.. I just don't know if I can keep my finger out of it long enough to do the Traxxas method... again thanks for all the help and I will post pictures when I get back home...
 
Go with the heat cycle method buddy,....

The old trx method was terrible, the new trx method is a heat cycling method, its all about cycling heat through the engine, remember to put the piston at bdc while during the cool downs
 
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The traxxas method I know of is where you run the car for 5 tanks of fuel.. the 1st tank is with the body off and you go a 1/4 throttle hold it for 2 seconds then brake and you do this for 5 tanks increasing the throttle and time holding the throttle as you go through the 5 tanks.... I wasn't impressed with the results when I did it with the original 2.5 I had in that truck... I was wanting to know if someone could tell me where to find information or how to do the heat method and wich is truly a better method for breaking in this engine.... Thanks for all the help with this project and once I figure out how to load pictures on here I will do so...
 
Like I mentioned earlier on in this thread there is a good post on the heat cycle method here on this forum, its in the engines section
 
hotrodrob said:
Go with the heat cycle method buddy,....

The old trx method was terrible, the new trx method is a heat cycling method, its all about cycling heat through the engine, remember to put the piston at bdc while during the cool downs
Click to expand...

So is the new TRX method an official traxxas method? Like the one that comes with the DVD?? Or are you talking about the heat cycling method that people use in general.
 
Yes it is, and it is a method of heat cycling, some think the trx method is a bit drawn out, I tried it twice, seemed fine, its all in the temps, I start out heating an engine up about 230, and cool down, I do this quite a few times and then lean it a bit for temps around 250 -260 I cycle some more and done! Dont forget to place the piston at bdc when cooling
 
hotrodrob said:
Yes it is, and it is a method of heat cycling, some think the trx method is a bit drawn out, I tried it twice, seemed fine, its all in the temps, I start out heating an engine up about 230, and cool down, I do this quite a few times and then lean it a bit for temps around 250 -260 I cycle some more and done! Dont forget to place the piston at bdc when cooling
Click to expand...
can't seem to find any Traxxas info or links for the new the heat cycle method. Could you help steer me in the right direction? Thanks.
 
scootr said:
can't seem to find any Traxxas info or links for the new the heat cycle method. Could you help steer me in the right direction? Thanks.
Click to expand...

I know not of the Traxxas heat cycle method. But there is a listing on here about the a heat cycle method. What I always do is 1.Pre heat my engine to 230 degrees than let it cool back down ambient temps, making sure the piston is at BDC. 2. I pre heat to op temp then start it let it idle for a few getting it to op 230 op and break in temp then shut it down and let it cool back down to ambient temp with piston at BDC. 3. Pre heat back to 230 again start it and start driving it at .25 throttle and a fairly rich setting not drowning just a little rich, keeping it close to 215-230 through the first tank. Don't ever run the tank dry. After running it that way let it cool back down with piston at BDC. While doing the .25 throttle I just modulate the throttle I never full break just roll the throttle few second than let off than roll throttle again. After 2 tanks at .25 throttle I move up to half in few second burst. After you heat cycle, 5-6 tanks this way your good to start full throttle pass's but don't hold the throttle down for more than a few seconds. Once I get about &7 tanks in this way I usually power tune and let it rip! I broke all my engines in this way and I a have never had an engine let go early and they all hold a awesome tune and idle great. And I always pre heat to op temps right up to the 7th or so tank.
 

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