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Dual tank mod
- Thread starter Kev
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #3
It's just a 2oz clunk tank for an aircraft/boat strapped onto a bit of plastic from a toolbox! 
It's sturdy enough and holds it secure with no wobbling around.
I've some micro chequer plate that I'll make a proper mount out of . . . one day.
Kev.
It's sturdy enough and holds it secure with no wobbling around.I've some micro chequer plate that I'll make a proper mount out of . . . one day.
Kev.
- Thread starter
- #5
It isn't really there to extend the run-time, it's to stop the stock tank leaning out halfway through due to the poor design of it.
What happens is the stock tank feeds the header tank so the header tank has a constant level, this keeps a steady supply to the carb at all times. It even keeps a supply flowing when the truck is upside down 'cos of the 'clunk' in the tank. (A small brass weight on the end of a piece of tubing in the tank that keeps the fuel pickup in the fuel at all times.)
Apparently they work very well.
Kev.
What happens is the stock tank feeds the header tank so the header tank has a constant level, this keeps a steady supply to the carb at all times. It even keeps a supply flowing when the truck is upside down 'cos of the 'clunk' in the tank. (A small brass weight on the end of a piece of tubing in the tank that keeps the fuel pickup in the fuel at all times.)
Apparently they work very well.
Kev.
Oh. Now I guess I know what you mean about the design of the tank. I have a brand new Savage waiting for an engine right now.
As far as I know the leaning of the engine half way thru the tank is a problem for most nitro cars. I know my Maxx does it. I have also noticed it on my NTC3. How bad is it on the Savage?
As far as I know the leaning of the engine half way thru the tank is a problem for most nitro cars. I know my Maxx does it. I have also noticed it on my NTC3. How bad is it on the Savage?
Renegade88
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I am also going to do this mod soon. Do I connect the original hose from the carb to the helli tank then from the helli tank run a line to the carb?
- Thread starter
- #9
mcvickj, just before your engine died in your Savage, did you notice how the power would noticeably increase as the tank got past halfway? That was due to it leaning out excessively which ultimately destroyed your engine.
I agree with what you say about most vehicles leaning out as the fuel level drops, it's bound to happen as the pressure slightly decreases in the tank because of the drop in the fuel level, but it is mostly negligible. In the Savage, however, this problem is made much worse because of three things, the stepped shape of the tank, the poorly sized baffles and the ridiculous positioning of the fuel outlet at the front of the tank. With the outlet being at the front it means that when the fuel drops below a certain level every time you accelerate the fuel is drawn away from the outlet leaving you with just air in the pipe!
Renegade88, yeah, that's the way to connect it, just make sure that the line from the header tank to the carb is connected to the clunk, (the flexible pipe with a weight on the end inside the tank) and the pipe from the stock tank goes to the uppermost nipple (originaly a breather/filler/pressure connection.)
bmoc2008, I live in the UK and a set of Joes and rims costs around £80, that's around $130 I think.
The header tank is filled initially by swopping the two pipes over and pumping fuel in from the main tank with the primer, then, when it's about 2/3 full put the lines back to their original places, top up the main tank again and away you go. If you keep re-filling as usual, when the main tank empties, then you don't need to touch the header tank again.
Phew . . . I can stop for breath now! :write:
Kev
I agree with what you say about most vehicles leaning out as the fuel level drops, it's bound to happen as the pressure slightly decreases in the tank because of the drop in the fuel level, but it is mostly negligible. In the Savage, however, this problem is made much worse because of three things, the stepped shape of the tank, the poorly sized baffles and the ridiculous positioning of the fuel outlet at the front of the tank. With the outlet being at the front it means that when the fuel drops below a certain level every time you accelerate the fuel is drawn away from the outlet leaving you with just air in the pipe!
Renegade88, yeah, that's the way to connect it, just make sure that the line from the header tank to the carb is connected to the clunk, (the flexible pipe with a weight on the end inside the tank) and the pipe from the stock tank goes to the uppermost nipple (originaly a breather/filler/pressure connection.)
bmoc2008, I live in the UK and a set of Joes and rims costs around £80, that's around $130 I think.
The header tank is filled initially by swopping the two pipes over and pumping fuel in from the main tank with the primer, then, when it's about 2/3 full put the lines back to their original places, top up the main tank again and away you go. If you keep re-filling as usual, when the main tank empties, then you don't need to touch the header tank again.
Phew . . . I can stop for breath now! :write:
Kev
Last edited:
Error401
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Dang Kev, you've done some upgrading on your truck. Looks like Aluminum towers, and the non threaded HB shocks. I might be mistaken on the towers, but it looks good dude.
Also, nice job on the header tank install!
Another note about header tanks. The reason heli guys (myself included) run headers is to prevent air bubbles from getting to the carb. This would lean out the engine and make it die, and if you're flying inverted at knee high altitudes, that's really bad. As for Kev's install, the fuel level in the header is right at (or nearly so) the level of the carb. On the staock tank, just below the top of the tank is level with the carb. This makes drawing fuel easier, and thus makes for a more consistant run.
Also, nice job on the header tank install!
Another note about header tanks. The reason heli guys (myself included) run headers is to prevent air bubbles from getting to the carb. This would lean out the engine and make it die, and if you're flying inverted at knee high altitudes, that's really bad. As for Kev's install, the fuel level in the header is right at (or nearly so) the level of the carb. On the staock tank, just below the top of the tank is level with the carb. This makes drawing fuel easier, and thus makes for a more consistant run.