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cowboynv

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OMG what the heck!! I switched to the 18 tooth gear and to do so had to pull the engine out. Now back in it idles high and wont shift!!

I have done everthing to adjust the idle with no luck. to the point when you hit the brakes it kills it. I have re-adjusted and fixed that issue but the iddle is still high.. I'm thinking the smaller tooth clutch bell was enough speed right now!! I have also check fuel lines, no breaks and good connections..

Thanks,
Craig
 
Have you tried going back to the 15t CB to see if the new CB itself is the problem??
 
It sounds like you may have altered your throttle linkage when you removed/refit your engine. Try popping the linkage off the carburettor, then setting the idle screw so the carb dashpot (the bit that slides, you can see it beneath your air filter) is open only about 1-2mm.
Your carb shouldn't close any when you operate your brakes.
Most of the customers I have dealt with with idle speed/cutting out problems needed their linkages setting up correctly.
Hope this helps.
 
good point, I noticed that if I moved the linkage towards the carb it goes to normal idle, So I unlinked it and screwed the ball connector out to put more tension towards the ball, which pushes it twards carb and it helped but is still going fast.

C.
 
You can trim out the extra throttle input by using the trim on the transmitter.
 
Aside from that, you can shorten or lengthen the linkages as necessary.

You could also try unscrewing the servo horn (the thing the linkage connects to on the servo), centering the servo, and then putting the servo horn back on with a slight off alignment in order to manually remove the throttle input.

This last method will require some tweaking with the trim and will take away some of the range of movement on the servo. Why? By off centering the servo horn you create a neutral position that is actually weighted towards the throttle or brake side. This means that at full throw in either direction you actually get more or less depending on where you weight it.
 
Problem fixed?

The spring that goes from LSN to around air intake to the HSN was loose not pulling plunger back completly to hold in idle position. I noticed that if the hook not only snapped onto the LSN but also kind of wrapped around it with tip resting on air intake, it allowed the crab needle to close completely to the 2mm setting, thus engine idled properly.

Was out running it this evening and besides my LSN and HSN running a little rich from me messing with them earlier it seems to be running normal. Do you know how many times I looked at the spring being loose and though, naw that can’t be it…..
 
Sometimes the littlest things cause the biggest problems. Glad to hear the problem is solved.
 
If you change the CB to a larger or smaller one, you will end up with the engine either farther from or closer to the left side of the truck. This will require an adjustment in the final throttle linkage to compensate. If you put a higher tooth count CB on, you will have to lengthen the final link, lower tooth count CB requires shortening the link. It's a geometry thing, not a tuning thing.

Another point about the TRS, move it. It doesn't really work as good as it could where it is stock. I hooked mine to the roll bar and the bell crank (the side that goes to the servo, not the carb). This will effectively increase the tension on the TRS and make it work better.
 
Error, great point, who would have thought... But as soon as I read your reply it made perfect sense... Of course the higher tooth CB would displace the engine differently. In fact I had remember adjusting the positionon from where the old screws went into the frame because the gears were not meshing well. I'm sure when I get the picco the same problem will incur.

I was looking at the RD Logics pipes.... 1 piece... Will the same pipe work on the 25 and picco... I was thinking no because picco would require larger pipe??

Thanks,
C.
 

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