Diff upgrade for .15 Pro

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rbpwrd240

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Hey gang,

I am tinkering on my .15 Truggy and I want to upgrade my diffs before going to my O.S. .18CV-RX (S).

I was looking at just rebuilding the .15 Diffs's with some ebay RRP Hardned gears but now I'm thinking about upgrading to the 3.3's just for the sealed case's. Can anyone tell me if I will need to change anything else to make these diffs work?

I run proline widemaxx suspension (basically 2.5 wide) and stock .15 Bulks but I was looking at upgrading to rpm's anyway so if I have to change them now would be the time. I also run Proline CVD's at all four corners and MIP CVD's in the center. My .15 diffs run a rear locker could I use this locker in the 3.3 diffs?

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Alex R.
 
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I recommend the brushless emaxx diffs they hold up even to extreme power. If you get the emaxx diffs you will need to use your pinion gears from your old diffs. Or just buy a new set of #4909 pinion's from ebay. The emaxx diffs use a shorter pinion. I have broke the RRP diffs but have never broke a set of #3908 diffs ever and I am running a race modded LRP.30 BB in mine!
 
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Thanks for the info!!!

So does that mean that my Rear gear locker and Robinson Racing Gears will fit into any of the Differentials including the revo style sealed diffs?


When I searched your idea of bushless diffs into my truck (.15 Pro) this is the first thing I find.

"These are not for use in the older 2.5 E/T-Maxx trucks! Your drive shaft cvd's pins will not line up."

Does this mean that my metal proline widemaxx CVD's wont match these new diffs?


Thanks again,
 
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If your going to run the brushless emaxx diffs you have to use the tmaxx pinion gear in the emaxx diffs. The emaxx pinion is to short and the drive shaft set pin will not go in. I use the brushless emaxx diffs and just buy the #4909 model tmaxx pinion gear and swap them into the emaxx diffs and your good to go. Your axle CVD's will fit with no problem.
 
If you going to use a spool in the rear there isn’t much sense in using the BL diff housing as you are eliminating the diff cup to install the spool which is where the added strength comes from.

You would also need to use a different size bearing on the ring side of the diff to fit the spool in the 3.3 and BL diff housing as the bearing size has changed from the old style diff.

The EMaxx BL diffs are stronger than the stock 3.3 Maxx diffs and much, much stronger than the old style .15 diffs.
IMO you really do not need the BL diffs with a .18CV, the stock 3.3 are plenty strong for that engine.

Unless your running on a loose surface the spool isn’t helping you in handling/traction.
What mods have you done to the rig to call it a truggy?
 
I was in the same boat as you after I put my OS .18 in my tmaxx .15. All I did was change over the entire driveline to 2.5, purchased rpm new arms and traxxas bulks and called it a day. I figured I would leave the tmaxx a small block monster truck since I have 2 big block monster trucks-mgt 8.0 and savage xl.
 
Thanks guys for all the info. I may just go with the 3.3 sealed diffs. If I do can I use the .15 rear locker I have and the 3.3 T-maxx gears to just bolt right in? Thanks for the info!!!


For my Truggy Conv I already had a bunch of parts installed from owning the truck some 14 years. Its already been many things lol. Here was what I had to start with.

Proline Wide Maxx Kit
Mip center and Proline Corner CVD's
Rear Gear Locker
Traxxas FOC
Proline Titanium Turn buckles
Lunsford Titanium Hinge Pins
Waterproof Traxxas Servos
Team Orion 1100 NI-MH Hump Pack
RC Raven Battery and Reciever Box's
MIP Temp Gauge
Racers Edge Bell Gear Assortment (16, 18,20)
RPM Tie Rod Ends
RPM Axle Carriers
RPM Pillow Ball Cups
RPM Bulk Head Braces
CVEC Rear Exhaust
Motor Saver air filter
Proline Improved Fuel Tank (Larger No Primer)
Kimbrough Spur Gear (Double the pegs Assorted sizes 64-72)
2.5 Brake Hex Conv
Trinity Body Braces
Yellow Nylon Body Post's
ETC TOO MUCH TO LIST!!!

So for the Truggy Conv I added.
Proline Crowd Pleazer 2.0 body
3.2" Proline Bow Tie Tires
3.2" Proline Velocity Wheels 1/2" Offset
Dynamite 23mm Hub Adapters
T-Bone Racing Front Basher (Buggy Style) Bumper
80-90% 10-12 Black Oxide Hex Screws
XTM Servo Skid Plate
Traxxas Big Bore Shocks
O.S. .18 CV-RX

I want to get a metal rear body mount to make a wing mount for a rear wing over my rear CVEC Exhoust. I have tried extensivly to keep the aluminum off the truck and to keep weight down. I havent gone as far as to ditch the battery box and go with mounting a flat pack under the truck or to mount the hump pack over the front Bulk Heads. I also wanted to keep it a small block and utilize all the old school bits like the fail safe, cvec exhoust, square port side exhoust motor and on board temp gauge. My car is an attempted homage to how far the maxx has come.


I know my Trans and Diffs arent on the same plane theoreticaly making this a monster truck truggy at best but until I get a new chassis possibly the Mutant lower CG chassis this is how I plan to run my truggy. My proline widemaxx is perfect for the truggy style of suspension as they are 3 position upper and three poistion lower with settings such as low, lower, and lowest. Or so it seems. LOL

Alot of the upgrades on this truck from oh 2002 are not necessary for you young guys that run the newer model maxes. Ahh back in the day when there was only one Maxx... It was alot easier to order parts back then but the parts werent as many and they didnt have such neat ideas like waterproof servos..... I had to wrap my electronics in rubber ballons and zip ties to drive in the mud and snow.

All while this is happening I have a supermaxx build that gets very little to no attention. However every now and then I can sneak a piece in there without the littl lady knowing. She hates titanium.... Never should have shown here a few prices. She thought my little hobby was so cute till she saw that the big name parts like OTB, Strobe, HCR, RRP and UE can bring big time dollars. So I sneak in new bits of titanium and high dollar aluminum when I can.

For the Supermaxx:
Thunder Chassis, Braces, Center Skid
FLM Hybrid Bulk Diff cases with Lightning Diffs (Old Version)
Hardned Steel Diff Cups
HCR Reciever Box (1st Gen)
Ofna Fuel Tank
UE Fuel Tank Mount
UE Servo Mounts
FLM Shock Towers (2.5 Style)
Wing Mount
HPI Wing
90% RRP Metal .15 Trans Gear Set

***Edit Just added ***
strobe slipper
UE 5mm Drive Cup
HCR Carbon 2.5 Brake Disk

One last question here since you got me thinking about my truggy. I saw a guy that looked like he was using a tie rod or something on the top of the chassis (Stock Battery Position) To fit a flat battery pack. He used a tie rod to strap the battery in. There used to be a picture of this but I can't find it anywhere. I had wanted to do something similar on my Truggy. Can anyone help me?

Thanks again,
Alex R.:)
 
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