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Diff "clicking noise" part deux
- Thread starter Sasquatch
- Start date
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You will also need to remove the Dif. support bracket from the front of the diffs. It looks like this -O- . Grab it in one hand and twist it until it slides off. Once it is removed you should be able to take the two halves apart. If needed, use a small screwdriver to pry the halves apart.
- Thread starter
- #3
weeh!! :ahh:
That helped.. erhm!!
Thank you. (I feel kind of stupid now, hehe, but I looked in the maual and everything. nothing about the diffs are mentioned)
Just took a look at the exploded view when outlook gave sound of your reply to my post. I see the -o- there...
Thanks again. You saved my day.. (again)
That helped.. erhm!!
Thank you. (I feel kind of stupid now, hehe, but I looked in the maual and everything. nothing about the diffs are mentioned)
Just took a look at the exploded view when outlook gave sound of your reply to my post. I see the -o- there...
Thanks again. You saved my day.. (again)
nitro dave
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One of the things lacking in traxxas products is a good manual to help with repairs and such. Glad you got it figured out.
No problem. Ill just put it on your bill.
Check to see if the bearings are in good shape. Usually they are the first thing in the diffs to take a dump then its all down hill from there.
Take out the 4 tiny screws that hold the cup on. Inspect the cup throughly. You are looking for groves and wear on the slots that hold the spider pin as well as the overall condition of the cup.
Look at the gears for wear and broken teeth. Also inspect the bearings and the outer case.
Let us know what you see or if you have any questions. If you have a digital camera it will aid in our help.
PS.
Don't loose any of the shims and use the proper size screwdriver to remove the cup screws.
Check to see if the bearings are in good shape. Usually they are the first thing in the diffs to take a dump then its all down hill from there.
Take out the 4 tiny screws that hold the cup on. Inspect the cup throughly. You are looking for groves and wear on the slots that hold the spider pin as well as the overall condition of the cup.
Look at the gears for wear and broken teeth. Also inspect the bearings and the outer case.
Let us know what you see or if you have any questions. If you have a digital camera it will aid in our help.
PS.
Don't loose any of the shims and use the proper size screwdriver to remove the cup screws.
- Thread starter
- #6
Actually I have a digital camera.
After inspection i'm unable to see anything broken in the rear diff. I'm 99% sure that the clicking noise came from the rear, but i'll disassemble the front diff after dinner (time here in DK are 19:00)
If I do not see anything. i'll clean the diffs out and take some pics...
what kind of grease should I put in when reassembling.
Will some for normal cars do, or what values / specs will I have to look fore when buying some new.
Also. There were not alot of grease in the rear diff. Is it normal for RC car diffs to be only slightly smeared in. Is it not supposed to be kinf of half full in the diff..
After inspection i'm unable to see anything broken in the rear diff. I'm 99% sure that the clicking noise came from the rear, but i'll disassemble the front diff after dinner (time here in DK are 19:00)
If I do not see anything. i'll clean the diffs out and take some pics...
what kind of grease should I put in when reassembling.
Will some for normal cars do, or what values / specs will I have to look fore when buying some new.
Also. There were not alot of grease in the rear diff. Is it normal for RC car diffs to be only slightly smeared in. Is it not supposed to be kinf of half full in the diff..
As far as grease goes you can use any thick grease you want. Others will have their opinions that mat be different.
I have used regular auto grease in the past. Its messy but will work fine. I like to use the high temp red bearing grease but thats my choice.
You will fill the cup up with grease to cover the spider gears or pack it, your choice. Use just a light coating on the pinion gear. No need to pack the outer case. It will only leak out.
If you want to get fancy, you can use white lithium grease on the outer gears.
I have used regular auto grease in the past. Its messy but will work fine. I like to use the high temp red bearing grease but thats my choice.
You will fill the cup up with grease to cover the spider gears or pack it, your choice. Use just a light coating on the pinion gear. No need to pack the outer case. It will only leak out.
If you want to get fancy, you can use white lithium grease on the outer gears.
- Thread starter
- #8
I have a picture now..
This is the only part that seems to be broken..
Traxxas part 4981 I think.
About 5 teeth on the gear has a slight groove on them. (on the right in the picture)
If I take my fingernail and follow the edge along the broken or worn teeth then almost in the end there is some 90 degree edge.
Could this really be enough for the whole diff to skip or make the clicking noise ??
Well I guess this part reallt take some beating when driving the truck...
Any comments or input on this ??
Also now that I have disassembled both diffs. I was shocked to see the front diff to be almost empty. It was not leaking just looked lik not filled from the start...
I will go buy some for 1:1 cars tomorrow and put alot in when I get the replacement part..
This is the only part that seems to be broken..
Traxxas part 4981 I think.
About 5 teeth on the gear has a slight groove on them. (on the right in the picture)
If I take my fingernail and follow the edge along the broken or worn teeth then almost in the end there is some 90 degree edge.
Could this really be enough for the whole diff to skip or make the clicking noise ??
Well I guess this part reallt take some beating when driving the truck...
Any comments or input on this ??
Also now that I have disassembled both diffs. I was shocked to see the front diff to be almost empty. It was not leaking just looked lik not filled from the start...
I will go buy some for 1:1 cars tomorrow and put alot in when I get the replacement part..
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BuzzStPoint
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I stripped three of those out in about 5 minutes of run time each..
Check your bearings, also in my case the yoke that is attached to the diff, that had sand in it and wore the "spacer" part of the Yoke, this would allow the pinion gear to move forward and strip out the ring gear.
I ended going through three ring gears before I figured it out.
Part numbers you may need
Good luck and let us know..
buzz
Check your bearings, also in my case the yoke that is attached to the diff, that had sand in it and wore the "spacer" part of the Yoke, this would allow the pinion gear to move forward and strip out the ring gear.
I ended going through three ring gears before I figured it out.
Part numbers you may need
- 4981 Ring/pinion and diff cup
- 4614 6X12 bb Pinion gear bearings
- 4612 10x15 bb Axel bearings
- 4928x Driveshaft yoke
Good luck and let us know..
buzz