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Die Die DIe traxxas crap engien
- Thread starter LazyDave
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #64
oh i was attaching the exuast header and overtightend a little. i stated to bend the side down where the screew goes. looks like i will need a new one of thoese soon.
Directions 1. clean 2. apply thin layer on one surface 3. Wait ten minutes before assemboly $ clean of excees with knife or non-flammable cleaning fluid. Fully cured in 12 to 24 hours
Made by versaChem. Guaranteed not to leak. If you need to know
Directions 1. clean 2. apply thin layer on one surface 3. Wait ten minutes before assemboly $ clean of excees with knife or non-flammable cleaning fluid. Fully cured in 12 to 24 hours
Made by versaChem. Guaranteed not to leak. If you need to know
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That process is similar to putting a head gasket on a 1:1 car. When it's given some time to 'skin' over, it doesn't all squeeze out, but actually creates a thin sheet that compresses when you tighten it down.
- Messages
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- Reaction score
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- Points
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- Location
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Since the surface on a nitro engine is so small, I like to smear it on with a small screwdriver, then put the back plate on, line up the screws and turn them in finger tight......just enough to seat the plate squarely, but not enough to squeeze out all the sealer. The next morning I tighten it down, then give it another day to cure. That way, instead of just a seal, you have actually made a secondary gasket, and it's perfectly flat.
- Messages
- 35,104
- Reaction score
- 1,854
- Points
- 2,198
- Location
- In my recliner
- RC Driving Style
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- Flying
Just snugging down the screws enough to seat the plate flat, while not cranking them down to full compression. The silicone gasket you just made will be about the thickness of 2 sheets of printer paper.
The way you did it is fine, just try the other method the next time around. There's a lot less risk of blowing out that type of seal.
The way you did it is fine, just try the other method the next time around. There's a lot less risk of blowing out that type of seal.
- Messages
- 35,104
- Reaction score
- 1,854
- Points
- 2,198
- Location
- In my recliner
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Flying
A lot of guys take a brand new engine out of the box, and seal it before the even put it in the car. It can save some headaches down the road.
- Thread starter
- #74
it didn't work. My screew cam out of my steering linkage, a pain to screew in. My cluck burned out, or spring broke. I had violent reving for no reason. And i was tuning it and it ran great then it idled down on me causing it to stall. I was happy and then id wouldn't idle. But it is no long random. So i dunno. I want to meat some one some time how will tech me how to tune it.
Sounds like the same problem I was having most of last summer... aftermarket cooling head and all... I just got pissed and saved up for what I could afford... got an Xtm .18 hope it is easier to tune and run... My Xtermntr engine was a pleasure to tune and runs like a screamer... so I am trying this Xtm motor... mabye someday an O.S. Good Luck! I say throw it off a cliff. (the 2.5 trx motor)
.21Rc10GT
Hardcore RCTalk User
Might take the maxx apart for a nice thorugh cleaning and check up. Take the tranny apart and check, then the diffs. Maybe it is as simple as the slipper clutch being too lose.
- Thread starter
- #79
well, i just put the whole car together from a cleaning. And it in no the tran because nether cluch bell nore spur gear was spinning. It also was VERY loud, muffler is fine, also i have a nice long durtrax couplin. It is red 
.21Rc10GT
Hardcore RCTalk User
So, is this the first time you tried to run it since you put it all back together? Maybe you installed the clutch shoes backwards, because if it reved and the clutch bell wasn't spinning, that sounds like the culprite.