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Crawler Newbie looking for place to start.

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Larryhorner732000 said:
I've had lots of cars & trucks, boats & drones too I guess, over the years but been away from it for awhile. For whatever reason the whole Rock Crawler world has me super interested all of a sudden. I bought the TRX4 a few weeks ago and almost immediately wished I had waited and done more research first. I'll never do any competitions or anything, but I'd like a pretty capable crawler, and now I'm seeing ones with animated drivers which I think is really cool. Can anyone point me in the direction of researching that? I have been searching for days, don't want to be that guy that gets the comments "Use the search bar", but maybe I'm not searching the right terms or something. Once I get started down the right Rabbit Hole I think I'll be fine, but any help would be appreciated!
Oh, and I'm sorry if I posted this in a stupid spot. Thank you!
Click to expand...

TRX4 not capable, you jest? It won't be a competition rig, but it's not meant to be.

This is the a very difficult climb. This doesn't make the turn, but I might be able to tune my foams and make it happen.

Granted this is far from stock but I don't know of a scale truck (maybe, the Vanquish?) that can do this without mods. The amount of scaleness you want and the amount of performance you want is up to you. They do work against each other though.

So you can buy a VS-VRD and change the body to something more scale, but it would degrade the performance.
1739058430277.webp


What doesn't it do that you would like it to?
 
Jerold said:
TRX4 not capable, you jest? It won't be a competition rig, but it's not meant to be.

This is the a very difficult climb. This doesn't make the turn, but I might be able to tune my foams and make it happen.

Granted this is far from stock but I don't know of a scale truck (maybe, the Vanquish?) that can do this without mods. The amount of scaleness you want and the amount of performance you want is up to you. They do work against each other though.

So you can buy a VS-VRD and change the body to something more scale, but it would degrade the performance.
View attachment 219988

What doesn't it do that you would like it to?
Click to expand...
I stand corrected, your TRX4 looks to be very capable! I did buy the High Trail F-150, and I should have at least not gone with the High Trail if I wanted to crawl with it I guess. My "wants" also seem to change week to week, so I may even contradict myself from time to time. At this point, I think I'll put as little money as possible into the TRX to make it a little more crawl-friendly; maybe lighter shock oil, lighter springs, a little weight... Then buy more of a dedicated crawler later. First thing I need to decide is scale; probably 1/10, but the smaller ones are pretty fun with less investment. I'm also going to look in a minute to see if you've listed your upgrades to the TRX, and check out that Vanquish, that's a brand that keeps coming up. Thanks for all the great information!
 
Welcome!!!
Nice collection 👍🏼👍🏼
Lots of people here with knowledge to point you in the right direction.
To be honest, most crawlers out the box will need motors, servos, esc, and wheels and tires. Weight distribution is a must whether the rig is light or heavy. Front 60/40 back. Is the recommended wt. difference. Just be close.
But seeing that collection it won’t take you long and you’ll be winning right of the month. 🤘🏼
 
Willy0942 said:
Welcome!!!
Nice collection 👍🏼👍🏼
Lots of people here with knowledge to point you in the right direction.
To be honest, most crawlers out the box will need motors, servos, esc, and wheels and tires. Weight distribution is a must whether the rig is light or heavy. Front 60/40 back. Is the recommended wt. difference. Just be close.
But seeing that collection it won’t take you long and you’ll be winning right of
Click to expand...

Willy0942 said:
Welcome!!!
Nice collection 👍🏼👍🏼
Lots of people here with knowledge to point you in the right direction.
To be honest, most crawlers out the box will need motors, servos, esc, and wheels and tires. Weight distribution is a must whether the rig is light or heavy. Front 60/40 back. Is the recommended wt. difference. Just be close.
But seeing that collection it won’t take you long and you’ll be winning right of the month. 🤘🏼
Click to expand...
Winning rig of the month. Supposed to say. 😆
 
Larryhorner732000 said:
I stand corrected, your TRX4 looks to be very capable! I did buy the High Trail F-150, and I should have at least not gone with the High Trail if I wanted to crawl with it I guess. My "wants" also seem to change week to week, so I may even contradict myself from time to time. At this point, I think I'll put as little money as possible into the TRX to make it a little more crawl-friendly; maybe lighter shock oil, lighter springs, a little weight... Then buy more of a dedicated crawler later. First thing I need to decide is scale; probably 1/10, but the smaller ones are pretty fun with less investment. I'm also going to look in a minute to see if you've listed your upgrades to the TRX, and check out that Vanquish, that's a brand that keeps coming up. Thanks for all the great information!
Click to expand...

Don't beat yourself up for getting what you like. The High-Trail is still very capable and looks way cool too.

If you want to lower the CG for $0, crank you springs all the way up (least pre-load) and the truck will sit as low as possislbe. If you still don't have enough droop you could try short springs or no springs.

Verify this, but I think the difference is longer shocks/springs, bigger tires (2.2"), longer arms, and possibly the servo mount?

If that is correct, then you could swap to the shorter shocks/springs and the 2.2 wheels to 1.9, it would pretty close to the standard version. You would still have longer links, which I think would only make the wheel base longer? You could keep the 2.2 wheels work with shorter shocks.

I've changed all kinds of stuff. Now that I look at it I could have gotten a few extra stock rigs for the same $$. I don't have a build log on the TRX4, but maybe I need to make one. . I did this before I found the forums. This is what I can cobble together.

Brass it's like 8 lbs!
Brass Diff Cover https://a.co/d/37b50TK​
INJORA RC Internal Brass https://a.co/d/8BHxilV​
Brass Knuckle & Hub Carrier & Portal Knuckle Cover https://a.co/d/4RuDnIJ (I think this is the kit, but just buy the good stuff it was a PITA)​

Electronics
I have also ran a Hobbywing QuicRun Waterproof 1080 G2 Brushed Crawling ESC with a Holmes Hobbies TrailMaster Sport 550 Brushed Motor (21T) The HW Fusion is amazing, but this great combo and less expensive than the fusion.​
The BEC wiring is here. It's a bit complex.​
Radiolink RC6GS V2 https://a.co/d/fT9EH4w.​
I chose that because it has a 3-way toggle for the lockers . . . that mostly works right. Otherwise I would have gone with Flysky FS-GT5 https://a.co/d/bSqMWsk​

Wheels & Tires
INJORA 4PCS 1.9 Inch Metal Wheel Rim Beadlock https://a.co/d/f1OyKlS​
INJORA Brass Internal Beadlock Ring https://a.co/d/4vFcVkv​
I've run both JConcepts Ruptures Green & Pro-Line Hyrax G8. Both perform well for me and my terrain​
They are a bit too soft for the weight. Looking at upgrading.​

Chassis/ body Mods
I've trimmed the body in some places. (Free)​
Rock slider lift. (spacer and longer screws). (Almost Free)​
Lowered the body as much as possible. (Free)​
Relaxed the springs as much as possible. I might try pulling the rear springs completely too. (Free)​
I use forward battery mount (below) that helps to get the weight forwards.(Free)​
1739260523747.webp

Battery
Unless you are hammering the throttle, the Fusion slowly sips electrons, so you can use a tiny light weight battery. They are less expensive too.​
The current battery is OVONIC 3s Lipo Battery 2200mAh https://a.co/d/5sQUjqM (~45mins)​
Although I picked up TATTU 850mAh 11.1V 75C 3S LiPo https://a.co/d/iirMYhM for a SCX10 I purchased. These should work as well. (~30 mins with Castle Slate)​
I have also used these with the TRX (>1hr with Fusion, 30-40 min with brushed motor)​
gensacearespammers G-Tech Smart 3S LiHV Battery 4300mAh https://www.amainhobbies.com/gens-a...tery-60c-11.4v-4300mah-gea433s60x6gt/p1502570​

All in all
The servo and BEC are cool, but overkill.
There are a ton of good wheels out there.
Foams and tires make a huge difference for climbing.

Best of luck with your build, it's going to be great!
 
Last edited:
Jerold said:
Don't beat yourself up for getting what you like. The High-Trail is still very capable and looks way cool too.

If you want to lower the CG for $0, crank you springs all the way up (least pre-load) and the truck will sit as low as possislbe. If you still don't have enough droop you could try short springs or no springs.

Verify this, but I think the difference is longer shocks/springs, bigger tires (2.2"), longer arms, and possibly the servo mount?

If that is correct, then you could swap to the shorter shocks/springs and the 2.2 wheels to 1.9, it would pretty close to the standard version. You would still have longer links, which I think would only make the wheel base longer? You could keep the 2.2 wheels work with shorter shocks.

I've changed all kinds of stuff. Now that I look at it I could have gotten a few extra stock rigs for the same $$. I don't have a build log on the TRX4, but maybe I need to make one. . I did this before I found the forums. This is what I can cobble together.

Brass it's like 8 lbs!
Brass Diff Cover https://a.co/d/37b50TK​
INJORA RC Internal Brass https://a.co/d/8BHxilV​
Brass Knuckle & Hub Carrier & Portal Knuckle Cover https://a.co/d/4RuDnIJ (I think this is the kit, but just buy the good stuff it was a PITA)​

Electronics
I have also ran a Hobbywing QuicRun Waterproof 1080 G2 Brushed Crawling ESC with a Holmes Hobbies TrailMaster Sport 550 Brushed Motor (21T) The HW Fusion is amazing, but this great combo and less expensive than the fusion.​
The BEC wiring is here. It's a bit complex.​
Radiolink RC6GS V2 https://a.co/d/fT9EH4w.​
I chose that because it has a 3-way toggle for the lockers . . . that mostly works right. Otherwise I would have gone with Flysky FS-GT5 https://a.co/d/bSqMWsk​

Wheels & Tires
INJORA 4PCS 1.9 Inch Metal Wheel Rim Beadlock https://a.co/d/f1OyKlS​
INJORA Brass Internal Beadlock Ring https://a.co/d/4vFcVkv​
I've run both JConcepts Ruptures Green & Pro-Line Hyrax G8. Both perform well for me and my terrain​
They are a bit too soft for the weight. Looking at upgrading.​

Chassis/ body Mods
I've trimmed the body in some places. (Free)​
Rock slider lift. (spacer and longer screws). (Almost Free)​
Lowered the body as much as possible. (Free)​
Relaxed the springs as much as possible. I might try pulling the rear springs completely too. (Free)​
I use forward battery mount (below) that helps to get the weight forwards.(Free)​

Battery
Unless you are hammering the throttle, the Fusion slowly sips electrons, so you can use a tiny light weight battery. They are less expensive too.​
The current battery is OVONIC 3s Lipo Battery 2200mAh https://a.co/d/5sQUjqM (~45mins)​
Although I picked up TATTU 850mAh 11.1V 75C 3S LiPo https://a.co/d/iirMYhM for a SCX10 I purchased. These should work as well. (~30 mins with Castle Slate)​
I have also used these with the TRX (>1hr with Fusion, 30-40 min with brushed motor)​
gensacearespammers G-Tech Smart 3S LiHV Battery 4300mAh https://www.amainhobbies.com/gens-a...tery-60c-11.4v-4300mah-gea433s60x6gt/p1502570​

All in all
The servo and BEC are cool, but overkill.
There are a ton of good wheels out there.
Foams and tires make a huge difference for climbing.

Best of luck with your build, it's going to be great!
Click to expand...
Thank you Jerold, LOTs of great info. Quick question about my TRX, I just replaced the steering servo with an Injora because very often when I turn either way then let go of the wheel, the wheels would only return about halfway back to the straight forward position. So I replaced the servo and it still does the same thing. Any idea what would cause that? Doesn't seem to be anything physically binding, although I could look at that better to be certain. I also added all the lights, so I thought maybe I'm trying to pull too many amps or something, but it does it without the body on, so the only lights left at this point are the rock lights. I could try it without them too, but either way I think I'm going to look into the BEC route you gave me some links to above, thank you again. That would give me more weight up front anyway.
 
Larryhorner732000 said:
Thank you Jerold, LOTs of great info. Quick question about my TRX, I just replaced the steering servo with an Injora because very often when I turn either way then let go of the wheel, the wheels would only return about halfway back to the straight forward position. So I replaced the servo and it still does the same thing. Any idea what would cause that? Doesn't seem to be anything physically binding, although I could look at that better to be certain. I also added all the lights, so I thought maybe I'm trying to pull too many amps or something, but it does it without the body on, so the only lights left at this point are the rock lights. I could try it without them too, but either way I think I'm going to look into the BEC route you gave me some links to above, thank you again. That would give me more weight up front anyway.
Click to expand...
Replace tge servo saver. Kimbrough makes a great one.
 
Chubaka said:
Replace tge servo saver. Kimbrough makes a great one.
Click to expand...
I think the Injora servo I installed came with some different servo saver options, I just used the metal servo (horn?) that came with the TRX. Maybe I should have used what came with the new one...
 
What @Chubaka said.

Thank you for the reminder, I forgot to mention that's the first thing I replaced. I updated my post above to include that.

Mine had a plastic (garbage) servo horn from the factory and it stripped out first time I sent it off a rock. I use a Vanquish Servo horn (that's what the local store had), but I'm sure the Injora one will work fine too, as along as it's metal.

I don't "think" the lights should be an issue, the kit possibly draws a few hundred ma at most? If you think it's a problem, test it with and without the lights on and see if there is any performance change. The current draw with them off is near 0A.

The factory ESC should have over current protection (OCP), that is what a good engineer would do. But I don't know any Traxxas Engineers and anything is possible. If you hit the limit and they have OCP, it might cut out, stall, or the servo moves slowly. It's relatively harmless hit OCP occasionaly but I wouldn't do it all the time. It's a safety features not use feature.

If you only need current, you don't need the fancy wiring.

The reason I did the fancy wiring is because I run 8.4V. The micro-servos (lockers and trans) and factory receiver can't handle 8.4V. There are aftermarket micro servos that can handle the higher voltage, but they are expensive and unnecessary.

If you go with a BEC, the Castle is great and provides a lot of extra current and optional higher voltage, but overkill if you just need little more current. Most aftermarket BECs don't have an off switch. Make sure you unplug your battery!
 
H
Larryhorner732000 said:
Thanks for the response, lots of great comments and questions; I'm too used to reading facebook posts, they're mostly snide and negative. To be honest, I haven't even thought of searching forums until today.
So what am I wanting to do with it? Not entirely sure where to drive it yet, not much I've found in my vicinity, but the TRX4 seems great for trails, I have a Slash Ultimate, Big Old Losi LST2 Nitro for speed and, well, Hugeness, 1/16 drift car, 1/18 buggy, pretty much have everything covered that I like (oh and a boat and some drones), so I'd like to eventually have a cool crawler. No hurry, probably even leaning more toward building one I guess, but where to start? I don't want to end up with $2,000 into it, or more knowing me, but I want to start with the right platform (chassis I guess) so I'm not wasting money as I go.
Click to expand...
Hello, newbie to the RC world here to. What scale of crawler are you wanting to build? I'm seriously looking into the yk 41011. It seems to be a great platform to start with for beginners and it can grow with you.
 

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