Completely lost.

[militarymaxx]

Couldn't find any factory settings for the GS Storm .21 engine, and after having no luck last weekend trying to get this thing tuned I have done the following.

1. All new lines, no air leaks verified.
2. Good fuel and a well cleaned, properly oiled filter.
3. HSN - 3 full turns out
4. LSN - 3 full turns out
5. Idle - 2 full turns out
6. The throttle trim control (THC) on the controller is set to 0
(It's range on the XR3i controller goes from R/B 60 to 0 to L/F 60)
7. The slide boot is not fully closed with the rcvr and controller on.
That is to say at rest it's approx. 1/3 open. If I apply reverse throttle (brake) it will close fully. I can adjust the slide position with the controller but have been told not to use this feature to adjust idle.

I haven't fired it up yet with these settings. Will wait until I hear from someone who can give me some direction. I understand the basics of tuning but am afraid that things are so out of tune that I need to start at a good point, then fine tune. It's finding that starting point that I'm having trouble with. Thanks.

 

[Nitroaddict]

am i correct in understanding that the problem is that at neutal, the carb is open 30%, and when u brake it closes fully?

If that is the case, then it is an idle set screw adjustment problem. with the brake applied 100%, screw the idle set screw clockwise until u have a 1mm opening. then release the brake and trim the channel so that at neutral u have the carb set exactly at 1mm.

if i am incorrect in understanding your question, lemmi know.

 

[militarymaxx]

Correct, 30% open at neutral. Do I check for the 1 mm clearance looking down the throat ? And after I set the 1 mm using the set screw, do I still need to adjust using the trim too ?

 

[Nitroaddict]

set the 1mm opening looking straight down, with the brake applied fully. once done, release the brake. The carb will now open probably 50%. You will then want to trim the throttle back so that it is even with the full closed position (1mm open). You can do this with the trim, but I would recommend adjusting it at the servo horn, by removing the horn and replacing it at the correct point. that way the trims stay at zero.

 

[militarymaxx]

WOW, something that made sense and actually did what you said it would. I applied full brakes, adjusted the idle set screw like you said and I actually observed the slide moving. I set it for the 1 mm adjustment. I let go of the brakes and returned to neutral and just like you said, the slide opened to 50% (are you psychic ?). I then simply re-adjusted the spring/collar/rod throttle linkage to move it back to the 1 mm. Now in neutral it's at 1mm and when I apply the brakes, I get no movement at all with the slide, just movement on the brake levers. Does this all sound right ? If so, take me through some HSN/LSN magic !!

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

I emailed my racer friend who works and races for GS. I should have the answer by tomorrow.

I will also go home and count as I screw in my setting screws as one of my RTR engines is real close to factory settings.

 

[militarymaxx]

Much appreciated bro. Nitroaddict got me straight as far the idle set screw adjustment. I know that you are probably the only other Storm owner, or at least one of the few in here and I can't tell you how much I rely on what you have done with yours and your experience with the Storm. Getting paid tomorrow and plan on upgrading some more. Torque rods this time. Really want the Ti chassis but aside from the scrathces, I can't see getting rid of the stock one just yet. Again, Thanks for all the help.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

you should be fine with the Storm pro 7075 chassis. Its way strong. You can't go wrong with HCR either.

 

[Nitroaddict]

milmaxx - glad to see that it worked for ya!

hey now - me and humboldt are the only storm pro owners here, arnt we? i never noticed that.

I am kinda busy at work right now, but if i get some time later, i will try to help with the needle valve adjustments.

 

[militarymaxx]

Can't say for sure who the Storm owners are but you and blazer are definately the outspoken ones. Heck, you guys speak more highly about the Storm than the OFNA and Kyosho guys do. Not bashing those machines, they're great too. But it's good to hear folks speak highly of a buggy that in some circles might be inferior to some of the higher end buggies. Bottom line - the Storm is a good buggy and with the aftermarket support, can be made even better. Back to the needle adjustments. Thanks again for the help. Blazer has a contact that he is trying to get some settings for me and I think he was even going to look at his and count the turns, thinking that might help.

 

[Nitroaddict]

Cool - I dont have the RTR version - so I have no idea what the settings should be on that engine. Let me know if he isnt able to help, and ill check online, or stop by my LHS tonight and get the instructions out of the RTR they have there

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Its not in the manual (bad thing)

ok the mystery is solved. YOu were pretty close in your guessing
HSN 2.5 turns out
LSN 3.5 turns out
Idle about 1-1.5 mm gap

So you were a little lean on the low end (but not really since 3.5 is factory=rich) and a little rich on the high end. Good luck.

 

[militarymaxx]

Bro, you are my hero. I owe you big time. Both you guys. I wish you were guys were local, I'd take you out and buy some beers and then we could drive while drunk (at least the buggies). Hey, maybe that could be a new event. Drunken nitro racing. Someone could even race as the cop, try and pull us over. Would probably need a MT to do it though. Again guys, Thanks a bunch.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

not a problemo, glad I could help ya.

Hey Military this is what Garen my contact with GS says:
"For the engine settings, try this, but if you need to go to a "factory setting" chances are you have tuned the engine out of tune. GO 3.5 turns out
on the bottom end, go just under flush of the brass tube on the top, and set
idle as needed. I would install a new plug, new fuel and pressure lines,
check your fuel and fuel filters. Do not tighten the needles all the way as
you will rip the o rings. Factory settings are not the "answer" to tuning
your engine as there are too many variables."

 

[militarymaxx]

I agree with factory settings not being my end all be all of adjustments. I will of course go from there. It's just nice to have a semi-workable starting point and you have provided me with that. And yes, after work today I'm heading to my LHS for new fuel, new lines and new glow plugs. Speaking of glow plugs, the LHS recommended McCoy MC-9 as a plug. What would you suggest. It's early summer in VA right now, hot as hell. Also, what's your opinion about larger fuel line (inner diameter) ?

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

I used the McCoy MC59, The MC 9 is cold, MC8 is medium and MC59 is hot. You run 20% right? If so I say the 59.

 

[militarymaxx]

Got new lines (clear this time, easier to see my smurf blue fuel), new plugs (didn't have the MC59 but had the dynamite equivalent), and new fuel (blue thunder 20%). I noticed that the new fuel has this rich blue color and my old fuel (about 1 inch left in the bottom) has this aqua blue color. Different batches or is it bad ? If it's bad, that would have added to my tuning problems I suppose. Anyways, I won't get a chance to run it yet with all the new settings, but will provide some feedback when I do. I'm sure the settings you provided will do it for me.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

The only changed the label and not the color of the fuel from what I know. I think your fuel sounds like it was bad or old.