So i fixed it, i pulled the tank, bubble tested it, no leaks. Changed fuel lines, actually hooked up the top fuel line to the exhaust... Some how it was connected to the idle screw..
Its running ok, moves decent once and awhile it stalls and i have to run up to it and pull the body and start it again lol.
I think i spend more time starting it then running it.
I need to get a better battery charger for the igniters because I'm afraid to overcharge them and ruin them so i have to keep alternating and charging them because they're never charged all the way. Good thing i have 3 of them!
For the igniters, use this to enter the details and work out charge time:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/batterychgcalc.html
Also test your priming system is working. Remove (and clean, and re-oil the air filter), take the glow igniter out, turn everything off, and open it wide open throttle (the slide completely disappears) then look at the opening opposite the golden needle and prime the engine. Does fuel (not bubbly) come out of the opening? If so, it is priming properly and fuel is getting into the engine. Then move onto the glow plug, take it out and put it against a fully charge glow igniter. Does it glow bright bright red/ even white? Also check whether the wire and bottom are black (this means it is worn out) Also see whether the actual coil is bent or damaged. Follow this:
It should look like 2, 3 is too rich, 1 is too lean, 4 is healthy, but worn out.
Then we can move onto the clutch. Remove the engine, take the clutch bell off. Inspect the shoes. Are they worn? Is there a groove on the inside of the clutch bell, if so it needs replacing. Then check clutch springs, do any of the shoes flap about when you shake the engine, are they free. If so, they need replacing since they have broken.
Then check drive train, lift the car up while its all together, and spin 1 wheel, do all the other wheels move, even slightly? If so then good. Then check center diff, place the two front wheels on the ground and hold and spin the two back wheels, the front wheels shouldn't move, however the back wheels should be movable with a little but more resistance, but the movement should be quiet and smooth. Then do the same the other way. Once you've done this hold the two front wheels, one in each hand. Move them in the opposite direction. Is the movement smooth, do the same but this time keep the one wheel still. Repeat for rear. If your diffs are in good condition, then all of the tests should give smooth, noise free results.
Then we'll check brakes, turn the car on, with the air filter off. First, is there a 1-2mm gap as is? This is your idle gap, just enough to let air through to keep it at a low rpm, adjust the idle screw to set this correctly. Then put on full brakes, do they work, is the car very difficult to push forward, if at all. This should be the case, if it isn;t, then tighten the screws on the brake "calipers":
Those two black screws that sandwich the disc.
Then, look at the slide, and put on full brakes again, does this idle gap change? If so, then your linkages are incorrect.
Now, steering, go full lock one way, does the servo whine and twist, if so, then you need to lower your endpoints. If not, then good.
Now we can try and start, set needles (LSN, HSN) so they're flush with their housings.
Now, put in some fresh fuel, prime it, don't over prime, (locking it up, this is bad, if you do, remove the glow plug, pull it over quickly a few times and then put it back in) and pull the pull start. It should start. If it sounds like it's about to stall, use the throttle trim on the remote to turn up the idle. Leave it to warm up for a minute or two, then very, very slowly, go up to about quarter throttle, if it sounds like it's going to stall, let go, and try again, then, move up to half throttle, then up to 3/4 throttle, then do a few full throttle passes. The engine will most likely be very rich, even too rich, if you can't go full throttle, and it dies, then lean out the HSN so you can warm it up at least. Then, to actually tune the engine, keep on leaning out (clockwise turns in) of the high speed needle, until you reach higher and higher rpm, and performance gets better and better, stop once you have no performance improvements. Your engine should be running in the 200-240f range. If you don't have a temp gun, put some spit on top of the cooling head, if it evaporates instantly and boils away it is too lean. Now turn throttle trim back down, if it is still to low, turn up the idle screw on the carburettor. Now move onto the LSN, the lsn affects the mixture during acceleration, whereas the HSN affected the mixture during higher rpms. Do the same with the LSN but in 1/16th of a turn. Keep leaning it so that you get faster and faster acceleration, if your engine bogs down when you go full throttle, then it is too lean. Now do the pinch test, whilst idling, pinch the fuel line close to the carb, the engine should die within the 4-6 second range, the idle should go up suddenly before it shuts off. But remember, this is a rough estimate, and is not entirely accurate. You'll also need to readjust the idle speed once again, now the final step is to top it up with fuel and have fun
Please read this and follow this through, if you follow this, you're pretty much guaranteed to have a perfect running nitro rc.
Go through everything I mentioned and you should be good to go 