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carb factory settings

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nitrogator

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  1. Bashing
on my aftershock the factory preset for high and low needles is 3 turns from bottom on each is this to much just seems like i am having a heck of a time to tune
 
The factory settings are a starting point for break-in. You will need to make adjustments from there to get the engine making optimal power, temp range good and easier starting.

Have you done a proper break-in on the engine? Be specific on the problems you are having and someone here will help you get it lined out.
 
break in is done 2 tanks idled and 2 tanks low throttle in 5 second bursts if you know what i meen... well what is going on is that i get one set to what i think is good 1hr turn at a time then i loose the other setting whether it is high or low i can't get them to work together..i see smoke all the time i know is good.i get the low speed set then i lose the high speed or vice versa...any help would be great
 
break in is done 2 tanks idled and 2 tanks low throttle in 5 second bursts if you know what i meen...

If you want any sort of power on your engine you'd use the heat cycle break in method. Breaking in by idling is the old school method and puts more stress on the engine than heat cycling by having overly rich and cold settings and taking longer to do.

Well, I shouldn't say it decreases power by using the old school method, but the heat cycle method DOES leave your engine with incredible pinch. I've run probably 20-25 tanks through the Picco and it still has alot of pinch with the plug out.
 
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It involves getting your engine up to temps by running it slightly rich (as in leaner than factory settings) for about 3 minutes at a time and then letting it cool at BDC (bottom dead center where the piston is at the bottom of the stroke). Do this about 10 times then switch to 6 minute runs, and after ten of those then you can start tuning for performance. (I'd leave it a little rich for about another half gallon though) It's outlined in the engines and motors section of the forum.

By letting the parts heat cycle you break them in with less stress than just a basic run-in to eliminate high spots. It still fits the piston and sleeve but leaves it with incredible sleeve pinch afterwards.
 
Its difficult to say which is best for you . Like Racer 1966 said, its a starting point for the end user. You must break inthe engine accordingly and then after that is done, tune for performance.
 
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