ok i'm having a problem with my savage can't keep from pulling weelies. i know that this is why i bought my picco but i'm tired of it . what can i do to stop it. if i change clutch bell from 16 to 18 this might help stiff shocks in b loose f what else can i do?
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can't stop poping
- Thread starter imnotsure
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kwong2001
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yeah, change the gearing. Also, you could get a wheelie bar, or make one
- Thread starter
- #4
i'm not wanting to change the tuning.this is what is doing it sounds like there is alot of tork being waisted during take off sounds like slipper is working overtime.if i go soft in back i think it would allow it to popup more but not 100% pos.
Nitroaddict
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imnotsosure - I had a similar problem with my RC10GT. I was able to alleviate it by loosening the slipper clutch, to smooth out the clutch engagement. Also, u can get softer springs for the clutch, that will allow the clutch to engage at a lower rpm, when there is less torque available.
- Thread starter
- #6
i have loose springs i just tried the shock thing and it worked ok it's not poping as easy but still have excess rpm if i loosin slipper wont i be waisting the xtra power?i want to use all it has and still keep the tires on the ground.
nitro dave
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You really only have a couple of options
1. Change the clutch bell...Might not help all that much, depending on how big you go. If you are running a 16, try a 18 or even a 20 tooth
2. Loosen the slipper. You might loose some of the initial low end, but you have to savricifce something to keep the front end down. I may be mistaken, but I think that this is what 2wd stadium truck have to do when they race so as to keep all 4 wheels down.
3. Softer springs and shock oil in the back. This will help the shocks compress easier, and help to keep the front end from flying up.
Your answer may be in a combination of these.
1. Change the clutch bell...Might not help all that much, depending on how big you go. If you are running a 16, try a 18 or even a 20 tooth
2. Loosen the slipper. You might loose some of the initial low end, but you have to savricifce something to keep the front end down. I may be mistaken, but I think that this is what 2wd stadium truck have to do when they race so as to keep all 4 wheels down.
3. Softer springs and shock oil in the back. This will help the shocks compress easier, and help to keep the front end from flying up.
Your answer may be in a combination of these.
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I'm going to go against the grain from the rest of the crowd, and say that you need to stiffen up the back suspension. It will still squat, but what you do not want is for it to squat as rapidly. The mushier the back, the easier it is for the rear tires to drive the back of the truck up under the front...generating a wheelie.
I have 60wt silicone in my shocks and a really stiff rear suspension compared to the front, and have only had the odd wheelie off of a jump or bump. I have roughly the same set up on both my T-Maxx and Savage and have yet to see a wheelie. Before I did this, I was able to wheelie almost 100% of the time on demand.
The other ideas with respect to the clutch bell size and spur gear will help. Adjusting the slipper clutch will also help. The problem is that you have a super powerful engine and a very stable truck. It makes it difficult to make the wheelies go away...but you can do it.
I have 60wt silicone in my shocks and a really stiff rear suspension compared to the front, and have only had the odd wheelie off of a jump or bump. I have roughly the same set up on both my T-Maxx and Savage and have yet to see a wheelie. Before I did this, I was able to wheelie almost 100% of the time on demand.
The other ideas with respect to the clutch bell size and spur gear will help. Adjusting the slipper clutch will also help. The problem is that you have a super powerful engine and a very stable truck. It makes it difficult to make the wheelies go away...but you can do it.
- Thread starter
- #11
i'm going your way sky on the shocks reason why is it worked as for the 18 tooth it was not that it had no low end it was that i did not check the space between the bell & the spur after it was all the way tite.it was loose when they were snug. it does not look like it will work very good the motor is hits the side plates without drilling the holes out.