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can't start my new Savage X motor!

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mrvern_04

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i have a used savage 21 that i got burned on at the local hobby shop, and i've got enough into it, that i might as well spend a few bucks to bring it back to life.
i have purchased a new savage X motor, but i can't get it to run either! i am using the glow plug that came in the motor and everything. i am using the type of plug heater that uses a C battery. i am re-using the old clutch and one way/rotostart off the old motor. i have checked all the specs for length for all the linkages, but i am using the stock carb settings. it is cold here in iowa, but i have even tried it indoors, to no avail.
could it possibly be the clutch, or slipper adjustments? bad/worn clutch parts? one way bearing? i am brand new to nitro / RC in general. i am just wondering if there is something i am doing wrong of if i am just dealing with a worn out heap.
 
I might need a little more info.
Is it close to starting?
Take out the glow plug and put the ignitor on it. Does it glow bright?

If the clutch was locked, it would move when trying to rotostart it.
 
welcome to rcnitrotalk.com!
it could be a few things, is the "c" battery new do you have another to try in the igniter? ..take off the aircleaner and with the radio & truck turned on look down the carb there should be a gap of about the thickness of a credit card, if not adjust the idle screw to adjust it...before conecting the glow igniter put your finger over the exaust & pull the starter (or conect the rotostarter) & pull untill your see the fuel in the lines reach the carb, then connect the igniter & with radio & truck on try to start it.....you can also adjust the throttle trim on your radio up to about 25% to help start it

your worn clutch parts will not stop the engine from starting.....
 
RatzoRC said:
I might need a little more info.
Is it close to starting?
Take out the glow plug and put the ignitor on it. Does it glow bright?

If the clutch was locked, it would move when trying to rotostart it.
Click to expand...

no, its not close to starting, thats why i'm frustrated. i have no signs of life, so i don't know which way to go with it. the clutch isnt locked, i've had it apart and cleaned it up and whatnot. they glow plug doesn't glow bright. none of the ones i had for my old motor did either. like i said, this is the stocker from the new motor. could i need a hotter one? could i have a bad ignitor?

also, i heard not to rotostart for more than 5 seconds or so, for fear of damage. what kind of damage? i use a drill...is that bad? thanks a lot for the help, i am brand new at this and i fear that i can't trust the guy who deals them in town. thanks a million.

retarded pilot said:
welcome to rcnitrotalk.com!
it could be a few things, is the "c" battery new do you have another to try in the igniter? ..take off the aircleaner and with the radio & truck turned on look down the carb there should be a gap of about the thickness of a credit card, if not adjust the idle screw to adjust it...before conecting the glow igniter put your finger over the exaust & pull the starter (or conect the rotostarter) & pull untill your see the fuel in the lines reach the carb, then connect the igniter & with radio & truck on try to start it.....you can also adjust the throttle trim on your radio up to about 25% to help start it

your worn clutch parts will not stop the engine from starting.....
Click to expand...
should i be looking at the slide, or the pin that you see when you open the throttle? i am using new C batteries, and i have tried a couple different ones. the plug doen't glow bright...could that be it? could i need a hotter/colder plug?
 
If your plug isn't glowing bright the engine is not going to start. Try a new new brand new plug and if you get nothing, and your using a brand new battery, something is wrong with your ignitor.
 
Well, if these guys are sayin it should glow brigh, then obviously that's your problem. If that doesn't heat up it cannot burn the gas, therefor the car will not start. Unless it is working and your have bad fuel, but I doubt that. Try to ask a friend to see if they have a igniter that you can borrow.

If that doesn't work, try a new glow plug. The engine is not a problem, so don't replace that again.

Good luck!
 
mrvern_04 said:
no, its not close to starting, thats why i'm frustrated. i have no signs of life, so i don't know which way to go with it. the clutch isnt locked, i've had it apart and cleaned it up and whatnot. they glow plug doesn't glow bright. none of the ones i had for my old motor did either. like i said, this is the stocker from the new motor. could i need a hotter one? could i have a bad ignitor?

also, i heard not to rotostart for more than 5 seconds or so, for fear of damage. what kind of damage? i use a drill...is that bad? thanks a lot for the help, i am brand new at this and i fear that i can't trust the guy who deals them in town. thanks a million.


should i be looking at the slide, or the pin that you see when you open the throttle? i am using new C batteries, and i have tried a couple different ones. the plug doen't glow bright...could that be it? could i need a hotter/colder plug?
Click to expand...

Possibly, yes. You have to spin these engines at a rate thats' just-right to get them to start. You may wait to invest in a rotostart hand unit, as it will spin the motor over at the right speed.

You could very well have a bad ignitor. You may want to look into a rechargable unit. It will save you money in the long run, and a charge will last alot longer than a C cell will. I usually get a couple days out of mine, easily.
 
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i checked the batteries i was using, and i guess i had some bad ones. i got the plug to glow bright, and i got the motor to kick over and run for a few seconds, but it wanted to take off on me and sounded like it was idling a little high, so i cut it off. should i check the gap on the carb? should i be looking for that thin gap with the carb pushed all the way shut, or just how it wants to sit naturally. should i check the pin that you see when you hold the carb full throttle? thanks! by the way, i am being very careful because this a brand new motor, i havent even had a chance to break it in.
 
For the first few tanks, it will want to shut off, as the fit is still tight. Don't worry, as it wears in, it will run easier.

Now, as for the idle screw, it should cover how you set that in the manual, as well as the other two needles. Set them to factory, and let 'er rip.
 
Vern,
Remember one simple idea. A nitro engine basically needs 4 things to start. Fuel. Air. Spark. Compression. If your engine is not starting, it's one of those things.
Now that you have it running, it might need a bit of a tweak. First, what engine is it? What size and model? My advice right now would be to find the proper manual for the engine and reset all needle valves to their factory-recommended positions. Set the idle stop screw so that there is a 1mm gap in the carb when the carb is held closed. This should give you reasonable idle. It might be a bit high at first. You'll need a bit of an elevated idle when breaking the engine in. Right now, it's VERY IMPORTANT to follow the break-in procedure outlined in the engine's manual to the T. If you try to go romping around too early, you may cause permanent damage. So take a little extra time to break it in right and it will serve you well.

For a light read, I will give you a link to a post which may help you get the gist on how to get your engine going right....
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8720&highlight=started
 
sounds like you need a new glo plug and check your carb settings and also if tou loosen the glo plug lightly try and start it then
 
YAY! I finally got the motor to start and keep going. you guys told me the new motor will want to idle high, so i just let it idle high. it wasn't like screaming though, i know that would be bad...i just couldnt get it to idle low enough to make the wheels quit spinning...is that normal? if not, or i can't get it to quit doing that after the next break in steps, what should i do first? adjust the idle needle, or turn attention to the throttle linkage (as this is a used truck, and i dont know what is right and wrong for sure on it.)?
just as the manual stated, i ran one FULL tank of fuel through the motor, while the wheels were off the ground. highest temp reading was about 254 or so. the next steps are supposed to be to run 2 tanks while driving in circles at about half throttle...can i do those consecutively, or should i let it cool before doing the next tank. it also made mention of running 3 or 4 tanks through for the break in...but it only gives direction for 3 tanks worth. sorry, i'm new, and already have WAAAAY more into this truck than it is probably worth, and i just dont want to have to spend any more than i have to.
thanks guys for all your patience and help!
 

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