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Bump start engine

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I believe the No-Load condition your referring to is running WOT with the wheels off the ground. That's bad for any engine, as well as for electric motors. Spinning it without a glow plug is no problem.
 
What starter box are you running? IS it for 1/8 scale or 1/10?

You need a 1/8 scale starter box
 
I think was Plaidfish mean by no load is like idling X number of tanks through the mill.
 
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bigfreak said:
I think was Plaidfish mean by no load is like idling X number of tanks through the mill. This is what the manufacture recommendeds. It will give 100% of the engines power right away. The engine's life however is shortened by almost half when you do this.

If you choose the heat cycle method (also carries Steven Bess's name in several circles), you won't get 100% power right out of the box. Over the first gallon of fuel, the engine will continue to break in. After the first gallon, you'll see the 100% power you're looking for. The engine however, will last 8-10 gallons if treated properly.
i dont really want to get into this conversation again as we already have on a dif thread, but.....
if you run through the tanks on the bench with no load, you do not rev the motor at all, like i have said in the past everyone has a diferent way of run in
i have had up to 80ltrs out of rbs by using this method so you be the judge of damage done, depends on who you talk to as to wether heat cycle method does damage intially as well, if you idle a tank or 2 through with your clutch on or off, makes no diffence to the load cause neither have any, the idea is to impregnate the working parts with oil not just coat them.
 
O.K when looking from the back of the box the wheel spins to the left. The starter box is the ofna with the silver lid and blue bottum, it says it works with everything. My dad orderd a new one. When i was at the track (not racing, just checkin it out) the owner (ofna team driver lance) recomended the one my dad just orderd. My dads going to pick it up Thursday :)
 
PiErow said:
I got the box goin. It still wont turn the flywheel. It just brushes underneath the wheel and doesn't spin it. I will not give up dont worry. By tomorow night it will be broken in...
I hope...

Uhh you have to get it unstuck man.

I grab my flat blade screw driver and I put it between the flywheel and the carb. Then I rest the tip on the flywheel and gently pry upward. The idea is to use the screw driver to give some leverage so you can back the piston out of the sleave. It should come out pretty easily.

Before you try to fire it again, put your heat gun on it and get the engine to 200 degrees. A hair dryer will get it up to around 150-160 which is OK, but not ideal. The idea is to get the sleave expanded before you fire the engine. This prevents the stuck at TDC thing.

Don't blame the starter box if it's stuck. There isn't a box in the world that will turn a stuck piston in a cold engine.
 
I sue the same starter box...Silver top with blue bottom. It has no problem starting My Rex P5 or my Top P5 with heat.

As bigfreak said it the piston is stuck at TDC then you will grind away the starter wheel or burn the starter motor up.

I used a hair dryer when I was breaking in my P5 but I need more heat to get the motor to 200 so I used a little propane torch. May not have been the best idea but it did allow the engine to get hot.
 
bigfreak said:
Uhh you have to get it unstuck man.

I grab my flat blade screw driver and I put it between the flywheel and the carb. Then I rest the tip on the flywheel and gently pry upward. The idea is to use the screw driver to give some leverage so you can back the piston out of the sleave. It should come out pretty easily.

Before you try to fire it again, put your heat gun on it and get the engine to 200 degrees. A hair dryer will get it up to around 150-160 which is OK, but not ideal. The idea is to get the sleave expanded before you fire the engine. This prevents the stuck at TDC thing.

Don't blame the starter box if it's stuck. There isn't a box in the world that will turn a stuck piston in a cold engine.


I have said over and over. I heated the enine to 200. I got the piston unstuck with a flatblade screwdriver. The box just doesn't have the tourqe or ease of use. I need another one neyways(2 bumpstart engines). Its all said and done i got the new one. I will let you know how it works...
 
Maybe I missed it here, but a lot of new engines just won't turn over with the glow plug in tight. Several manufacturers tell you to crack the seal on the glow plug to allow some of the compression to escape, making them easier to turn over. When it starts, you tighten the glow plug.
 
Yep i even tried taking the plug out. I was fine with the box until the engine turned over, stalled and my box died. Now with the piston bdc, the cooling head off, fresh charge on the sb battery. The wheel

A. Just spins under it.
B. Wont do anything.
C. Spins it until the piston goes to tdc and freeze.
 
Ok this may help. When the buggy is on the box the wheel of the box hits in what spot in the fly wheel? I have it hit just off to center gives it just a bit more torque.
 
bigfreak said:
I think was Plaidfish mean by no load is like idling X number of tanks through the mill.
yeah you got it...
I guess everyone has there own breakin.....I myself am a perfect gentleman and just let mine idle for the first tank to tank and half before I start the drive slow count to 3 then next 2 to 3 tanks are slow accelerate to 5 and blah blah blah...my mills last me long enough before I sell em and most people I sell to get at least another 4 to 6 gallons more which is about what I get b4 selling em...I think I'm keeping the fantom till it pops though I really like the power band that thing has...AWESOME....anyway when I have problems starting I add a plug gasket for a tank and then remove it after and continue the break in.......
 
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