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Bulkheads?

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Z

Zachary

Gone - bye bye.
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Well on Thursday last week Me and bob24 took our tmaxx's to the Park and bashed on some hills and stuff and didn't really break anything but my skid plate in the rear. Well today I fliped my truck with out the lid and busted the tank. Figured It gave me a good excuse to rip the whole truck a part to clean it any ways. Well as I'm taking the rear off I found the the bulk head was snapped right were the chassis meets. The skid plate was broken too right over that spot in a horizontal crack too. What Happened? Is this just a common thing or what? And are the gray bulks any better then the black ones?
 
Bulks have been a problem with the T-Maxx since day one. Only thing I can suggest would be metal chassis braces.
 
Busted the tank did ya... that sucks.....hey BOB24 wanna chime back in about how much the Savage fuel tanks suck? Sorry I had to.....:stick: lol Yeah a buddy of mine just crushed one on his too....
 
Well the tank was completely me fault. I was going full throttle and braked and turned.....Ya, monsters don't do that. Flipped it head over heels and the corner of the tank hit and split it down were it mounts to the chassis.
 
Zachary said:
What Happened? Is this just a common thing or what?
Click to expand...

um... you flipped your truck when you werent running a body. So yes, that would be common.

First thing is first here, replace the bulkheads with aluminum parts. you won't regret it. Secondly, NEVER run your truck without the body on. That's just asking for broken parts. The body will protect your truck more than you realize.
 
In the words of Ned Flanders, I don't want to sound like a nervous purvis about this, but you should always keep your body on unless absolutely necessary. About the only time I run my truck without the body is also when I drive it on the flat area in front of my garage, usually while tuning, and I am very cautious about how I brake and turn.

Never the less, my fiancee goes wide open throttle into her car's rim and broke something on my front bumper that I'm sure will eventually deem replacement of the bulkhead necessary.

Like they say, drive it till it won't run any more, then replace the broken parts. Have fun.
 
My buddy did the same thing, drove with no body on and cracked the tank. get a good roll bar or a cage if you dont want to run a body. And yes the bulks black or gray are a weak spot, dont go back to the plastic ones get aluminum.
 
i was informed by the lhs that alot of time the skid plates snappinglike that is because the shocks bottom out and cause the whole rear assembly to flex? seesm to make sense to me any1 else heard of this??
 
I just added RPM skid plate kit to old Maxx.It mounts over existing skids(I was repalcing the rear beacause it broke and I broke the bulks on my other one).It would seem this will add strenth to everything including the chassis braces because it adds a tranny center skid and again it all went over the original parts.$15.00 well spent I thing but we will see.Grey bulks are reenforced but on the opposite of where mine and yours broke,(on the eear/chassis brace end).Go with alluminum and mabey one of the bulk/diff case combos even better.
 
I use RD Logics aluminum bulkheads and they've done good. They were failry inexpensive too. Those hybrid bulk combos are great if you've got the money to spend. Also, you might try tuning your suspension. Once I got mine right it's done a lot better. Now I can go full throttle and turn and hit the brakes and it just spins instead of filpping.
 
CharliesTheMan said:
I use RD Logics aluminum bulkheads and they've done good. They were failry inexpensive too. Those hybrid bulk combos are great if you've got the money to spend. Also, you might try tuning your suspension. Once I got mine right it's done a lot better. Now I can go full throttle and turn and hit the brakes and it just spins instead of filpping.
Click to expand...

What to give me a lesson on tuning brakes?
 
the grey plastic ones ARE better than the black plastic but they still break if you drive like a maniac....the best setup IMO, is the fastlane or American CnC hybrid bulkheads...I had those on my maxx and hit a brick planter....my truck just smiled at teh pile of bricks it chunked out of the planter box before I did a donut victory dance on it......yes they are pricey BUT you figure replacing the diff housing and the bulkheads is about the same price adn the benefits (for a basher) are bulletproof diffs...I ran stock gears in mine and if you shim them really well you won't need to upgrade.....they also make them to fit 1/8 scale gears as well...funny thing is you can replace all the 1/8 scale diff gears cheaper than the stock T-maxx stuff and they are WAAAAAY tougher....regearing the clutch or spur will be necessary since the diff ratio changed......
But ACnC makes the toughest bashing parts for your maxx hands down...weighs a ton so be prepared to upgrade the power plant too...and the driveline....and the suspension...and the you get the point.....stock is the best way to enjoy these trucks until you can drive it without tearing them up...even upgraded parts brake if you haven't masteres the basics yet :stick:

Bob if you want to limit the shocks from bottoming out you should cut 1/4" peices of fuel tube and slide them onto the shock shaft between the spring retainer and the shock body....when the shock compresses this gives it sort of a dual stage dampener to really stop it from bottoming out....I use one inside the shock body as well to prevent droop bottom outs as well when you jump......
 
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