Building shocks....

[Mike02vr6]

k thanks...I should be back in like 2 mins to ask another question about rebuilding my shocks...not sure what one...but I should be back...

I'm baaaaaaaaaaaaaack!.....miss me?...didnt think so...ok here is the story...pull the top off...looked in saw oil about 1/2 in down as mentioned before....put the oil in to the top.. put the rubber thingy back in the way it came out..lil oil came out slowly pushed the cylinder up and ......nothing...stayed compressed..do I do this again until the little bugger comes back out a lil bit? sorry asking so many questions.

WOO HOO!!!! I did it.... :w00t: first shock rebounds about 1/4 way...no just one more question (for now) when Iwas just about done maybe say 1 1/2 turns out..no more oil seeped out is this good or bad? I could still see bubbles coming out slowly.

 

[SkyMaxx]

Wow...where to start? First of all, you need to properly bleed the shocks when you fill them. Awww, hell. Let's start from the beginning.

1. Open the shock.
2. Remove old oil/silicone.
3. Disassemble shock.
4. Clean shock with some dish soap and a bottle brush.
5. Replace any worn seals/o-rings.
6. Re-assemble shock.
7. Pull shock plunger until it is bottomed out.
8. Fill shock until about 1/8" from the top with oil/silicone of your choice.
9. Slowly move shock plunger up and down to get any air out. You should see little bubbles rising through the oil. Heating the oil first will reduce the time it takes to bleed the air out.
10. Once all bubbles have seeped out, fill shock the rest of the way.
11. With shock cap in one hand, slowly compress the shock plunger until the oil/silicone just bulges above the edge of the shock body.
12. Cap the shock. You will get oil/silicone seepage from the thread area as you tighten down the cap. You should also see the shock shaft start to push out.
13. Clean up excess oil/silicone from shock body, and tighten down shock cap until it is snug (hand tightened should be fine).
14. Test shock by compressing it all the way and letting go. The shaft should rebound about 1/4-1/2 its length (or between 1/4 and 3/4 of an inch).
15. Good rebound means good build. Place spring retainers and springs on the shocks.
16. Install them and bash away.

To answer your question on the stoppage of oil seepage...this is normal as the seal is made.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Sky - Please add pics to that so we can post it in the 'tech info' page.

Come on man, your such a fine writer yet you dont write.

 

[SkyMaxx]

If you are serious, I will do it. I just happen to have some stock T-Maxx shocks laying around...and they happen to need a rebuild.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Yes I'm serious, and anything else you dont like 'repeating'

I'm dead serious! Put the 'Sky' in Lights!

Get it?!?!? SkyLights!

Yeah I know, corny!

 

[SilentGTboy]

lol, that was realllly corny. I have some crappy shocks and a nice Digi cam if you need any help

 

[SkyMaxx]

I'll see if I have the parts for a full re-build on hand and make this a weekend project. If it helps others out, then it is worth it.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Thanks Sky!

 

[Mike02vr6]

guys thanks for your help on redoin my shocks esp you sky good work right down to the last detail :bow: I can't believe the difference the shocks made..its like night and day sits higher, drives better...even corners better at high speeds. thanks again guys.

-Michael

 

[diavolos]

I just want to say thanks to all you guys that put input onto this thread. My stock T Maxx shocks were performing like crap, and I wanted to upgrade the springs anyway, due to the extra weight of a roll cage. So, I come onto RCNT, and viola, all my answers are here!! I went to the lhs and picked up some Trinity blue springs, with some 50 wt oil, along with the stock Maxx bodies, and it's a perfect alternative fix versus buying a $150-$200 set that I really don't need. Thanks again!!