Building a T-maxx Drag car..haha!!!

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30%NitroBoy

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Whaddup guys,

Well, my buddy and I where going to do a "bulletproof" big bore conversion for Maxximum (ok, the Maxximum remark now seems lame.hehe) fun but I've decided to build an ultra light T-maxx Drag car. The west coast is full of regular RC drag racing but after talking to many RC vets in the SouthWest and on the westcoast, it's become very apparent to me that their's a HUGE intrest in monster truck drag racing....even if it's just for chits and giggles (read just for fun not "official"). I race my mean ass 95 RX-7 quite regularly but it's gotten to the point where I'm having as much or more fun with my "toy" cars and trucks..ha.

Obviously like any kind of real drag car you want the best power to weight ratio possible. I've decided that many of the stock parts that I already have (a-arms, knuckles ect) are more then acceptable for this purpose built machine but the chassis is the biggest issue for weight reduction. Most of the big bore conversions on the market are to heavy in Alluminum or Titanium. It seems that Carbon Fiber would be the logical choice assuming that the carbon fiber can handle the power and torque of the monster power plant that I'll be running. I've seen various companies that offer Custom Carbon fiber chassis for non big bore conversions but none for big-bores.

The AfterMarket support for the Maxx is rediculous as many know and somone has gotta make a good big bore conversion in Carbon Fiber.....ANyone know where I can find it???

EDIT - THe engine for this Beast will most likely be a Mod'd Picco .26 or a Mod'd Sirio .27 or other bad boy engine that doesn't cost $500...lol. THe Biggest trick is going to be getting the proper Diff and engine gearing to keep all that power on the ground. Power is useless if ya can't keep it on the ground..lol.

Thanks

Peace
 
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Thanks for the Responses guys,

Like I said....Ti isn't an option really as it's to heavy for a drag and straight line sand racing Maxx. I have the Standard Hardcore Ti chassis in my Maxx now and I'm VERY happy with it. I was thinking either something in women graphite or Carbon fiber. I know their's various companies that make good stock style chassis in Carbon fiber but I haven't found any in a "Bire bore conversion". The chassis on the Big Bore conversion from Dynamite is actually pretty damn light....we'll c. If a compnay makes a Big BOre conversion in Carbon fiber it's going to have to be a high weive to handle the torque and overall power of a big bore.

Peace
 
this idea may be more work that its worth but you could take the old style t-maxx chassis (its thinner than the new stock one) that is pretty light and youll have to make it bigbore compatable (i dont know it thats possible) i guess your other option is to find your fav chassis for a bb and make a replica out of some thinner stuff. but i dont know if you have the machining to do that..(i have an entire metalworking shop to use!!;) )
 
Hey Bashmaster...must be nice to have a machine shop to work with brotha. Thanks for the possible tip but I don't think that will work for my tastes....it has to be ultra light as the chassis is one of the most single heavy pieces on the maxx.

I have most everything that I need other then the CHassis setup. Carbon fiber and or Woven graphite should work well assuming it's a high weave to handle the torque and overall power of the BEASTLY engine I'll be running. I haven't been able to find a carbon fiber chassis from anyone on the net ina big bore setup. I'm currently working a possible trade for the Sirio .27 XL and it will be mod'd if possible. It's only money....RIGHT.
 
make your own kevlar graphite chassis. Thats what I would do. Its easy to work with. (then again I have 8yrs with glass and composits under my belt)

Here is a good site to buy products from if you desid to take it on yourself.

http://www.fibreglast.com/showprodu...rbon+Fiber+(Graphite)+Fabrics+&+Tapes-15.html

You can get carbon, kevlar or roven glass. any of the above would word just fine. but belive it or not a fiber chassis after the resin is applied would weight more then a Ti chiassis
 
Thanks for the reco's dude. I'm more then "mechanical" when it comes down to it but I have NO experience with woven glass, kevalar ect....othen then the Kevlar outfits that I wear when in the ghetto....lol.

I'll call Hardcore tomorrow to get exact weight for their Ti big bore conversion. I wouldn't be suprised if it wasn't that heavy. I have their Standard Ti Chassis on my daily driven maxx that's getting beefed up and it's about the same weight as the stock chassis (it's 1mm thinner).

Peace
 
you could trim ALL the extra substance off the chassis from hardcore and then my stiffent it up with some composite/fiberglass/graphite/whatever. maybe make some braces or rods or similar out of the kevlar or whatever you use and then put them on the chassis

My other idea would be to just use the back half of the chassis and cut the rest off, since your gonna need to get power on the ground, and you cand just do a wheelie all the weight needs to pretty much be in the middle or slightly towards the back of the truck. Geeze this is really hard to explain w/o drawing it, but i 'll hit the basics of my vague idea on how this could happen

its 2wd so cut all the chassis off from the place where the brake disk is and use alumium rods to connect the back half the chassis to the front bulks, and then have some cross members welded between the the 2 alum rods, pack all the radio gear around the tranny box. since ur gonna have a bb on, the throttle servo could be anywhere depending on the conv kit u get

well I'm betting that this could work, but this is just a breif guess at how it would be done, i have not tryed any of this, and I'm really just kindof assuming alot of things as I'm writing this post, but man, what I'm pictureing in my head is badass! post some pics for sure when you get started/finished!!:bow:
 
Hey Bashmaster - Thanks for the ideas and thoughts. I can understand what your talking about. I'm an engineer by degree but I'm a salesman now by profession (more money and more fun). I'm always thinking like an engineer when it comes to anything in this hobby. It's funny @ times how some of the hop-ups people do are sometimes in an abitrary fashion...lol.

I'm not looking to set a T-maxx world speed record but when it's done it'g gonna be a SPEED DEVIL:sniper: Like I said, I've got most everything I need but the chassis setup, If I do find a chassis design that's drasitcally different I may very well be spending bucks on other components so everythign is properly located. It will be FOC (of course) so I only need two servos, the diffs are going to be beefed up stockers but I may get LSD's from some of the compaines I've seen for the rear @ least. I'm currently running SUPER THICK grease (more paste) in my front and rear diffs and it makes a BIG difference for traction but it does slow the truck down some so it wouldn't be an option for a hardcore drag truck.

I'm in the process as of yesterday evening of possibly doing a trade for the new Siro .27 XL. If I can get that engine properly Mod'd it could be insanely powerfull. As I've said earlier in this thread, power is worthless if you can't keep it on the ground. THe biggest challenge for me will be keeping the power on the ground and finding the best gearing for a drag run. I'll be experimenting with tons of differnt gear setups. I might have to do a four wheel steering system...we'll c. I'll be sure to post pics from start to finish when I get it going soon here.

EDIT - On some other notes, I'm in the southwest. I travel to So Cal on a regular basis for work and I often bring my RC's. Even here their isn't an offical regulated ROAR or whatever standard for drag racing really and especially in a mod'd monster truck class. My friends and I often don't like to play by the rules because we usually don't like their rules. I want to keep it looking like a T-maxx as much as possible. If it turns out ugly, I don't care as it will be a beast.

Peace
 
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