broken axles what to do?

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Traxxasrox

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Hutchinson, minnesota
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ok so I'm kind of new to this rc stuff and i just recently bought a T-maxx that is a 2.5 chassis but it has a 3.3 motor and resonator pipe and the chassis is aluminum but thats about it for aftermarket. But anyway, yesterday i was running it and i noticed it didnt have any power hardly. so i brought it in and 3 axles were twisted apart and the other was twisted but not broke. so I'm looking to get steel axles but i have no idea what brand or what length to use and i also noticed that the stock spur gear is almost rounded off on one side and the metal clutch bell was very worn. I did flip it quite a bit and did some cart wheels but please help on what i should get to not have that happen again please reply!
 
steel drivelines will just transfer that damage to other more expensive parts. If i were you i would upgrade to 3.3 spec drivelines. they are larger diameter, and will hold up better.

I did it on my old emaxx, and it wasn't that hard.
 
ok so lke transmission, and driveshafts and axles on the 3.3? I think i will get steel axles and 3.3 transmission but should i get steel driveshafts?
 
Just get 4908 knuckles, turnbuckles and shafts. Problem solved.:) Diffs will be your next point of concern. Revo spec diffs bolt right up, and at $25 a pop, they're well worth it. If you have reverse, get rid of it with a forward only conversion. Then the strength of your 2.5 tranny will be right on par with the 3.3. Robinson Racing makes a nice slipper clutch setup for the 2.5 tranny. This would be a huge upgrade, because of the fact that you can actually adjust it to soak up some drivetrain shock, leading to much longer lasting shafts.
 
Thank you much. so where can you get the 4908 knuckles,turnbuckles, and shafts? and the revo stuff? so for the foc what exctly is stronger?

could you maybe just send some links?
 
Ebay. The foc eliminates rolling mass in the tranny and gets rid of the pawl clutch(the stuttering/clicking upon acceleration).
 
ok thanks alot! but do u know anything sbout the clutch bell and spur gear wearing alot?
 
Bad gear mesh, bad bearings in the bell, loose engine or engine mount. I've had the same spur on my Maxx for 1 1/2 gallons. My buddy has no problem with plastic spurs holding up on his Brushless E Maxx on 6s either. So don't let anybody try to tell ya to upgrade to aluminum. It's usually unnecessary and sends shock into the tranny, breaking gears that are harder to change.
 
How close together your spur and clutch bell are. Use a piece of printing paper between the gears to set the mesh. Just slide a strip of paper in, push them together, and tighten your mount. All metal to metal screws need locktite on them as well. Blue, removable locktite. Always put your piston at bottom dead center after a run too. Just rotate the flywheel until it feels the loosest. Don't burn your hand.:)
 
ok.. well i was thinking about getting another rc vehicle, probly an offroad truck. i would like a traxxas nitro truck but what is a good truck?
 
Well if your gonna stay with traxxas but don't want another T-MAXX there's the REVO 3.3. There's the HPI Savage X 4.6 both of which are great trucks.
 
ok well is the revo as durable and can u still jump it ??

i have a revo 3.3 ...and i love it ...its a pretty tuff truck to ...I've hit things with it ,,and wondered how come i didnt break anything.....i did break a couple things since i got it ..but they were easy fixes ( hit a F150 bumper at at least 30mph ...only broke a front a-arm ..and that was during winter ) .....and yes ...you can jump with it ;) ....but in this hobby , you have to expect to break stuff ......what i like about the revo , is the stock part are very easy to get for cheap prices ....

had mine for over 6 months now and only broke an a-arm and the rear bulkhead ....and a couple clutches ..lol..

and i find that the revo suspension is hard to beat ...its the same concept as an F1 car
 
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