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Bringing a shelf Queen back to life

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Nitrotrout said:
Before you invest in upgrades try the truck out and decide if this is a hobby you'd like to get into. Then If you decide it's not for you, at least you're not into it too deep and you can probably get fully reimbursed on your investment.

If you decide to keep your truck , a transmitter upgrade would be a good improvement to start with.
The TQ3 AM is prone to runaways from outside frequency interference and with the introduction of 2.4 ghz transmitters they've become obsolete.
That is one upgrade I'd recommend sooner than later. The Flysky 2.4 transmitters are good, and the prices are real reasonable. Might be worth looking into.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLYSKY-RC-3...pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item2c90f1fb55
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flysky-FS-G...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c7ccafbb5
or the Traxxas TQ
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-T-M...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d211110ab

The 4 screw diffs are an improvement over the grease filled 2 screw diffs. The 4 screw diff cases reduce flexing for better gear alignment
and the diffs themselves are sealed allowing you to tune them with different diff oil viscosities.
I doubt you're gonna blow out your diffs with a 2.5R so, I'd postpone this upgrade until they actually fail on you.
Instead, I'd upgrade the throttle and steering servos, and swap out the 4 AA batteries for a rechargeable hump back battery

Thanks for the help everyone



Click to expand...
 
I have a 2.4 ghz tx/rx that came out of a redcat I ran 5 times. A traxxas sticker over redcat and your in there. Pm me it's yours. Freebee!
 
tvjv2009 said:
I have a 2.4 ghz tx/rx that came out of a redcat I ran 5 times. A traxxas sticker over redcat and your in there. Pm me it's yours. Freebee!
Click to expand...
Quick questions, what is the best after run oil? Do you put it down the carb or glow plug & how much?

Thanks
Mike
 
3 in 1 oil you can pick up anywhere. Down the glow plug hole and only one or two drops.
 
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just put a few drops down the plug hole and a few down the carb then turn it over with the ez start wand. I'm sure traxxas recommends using wd40 instead of aro.
those diffs will be ok ,I have a 2.5 with an 18tm that I don't show any mercy when I drive it and the stock diffs are ok,snapped a few driveshafts but they are cheap as

just put a few drops down the plug hole and a few down the carb then turn it over with the ez start wand. I'm sure traxxas recommends using wd40 instead of aro.
those diffs will be ok ,I have a 2.5 with an 18tm that I don't show any mercy when I drive it and the stock diffs are ok,snapped a few driveshafts but they are cheap as
 
I use Marvel Mystery oil. I use more than a few drops but before I start it again I spin the engine over a few times before starting it. And always after preheating the engine with the glo plug out. It's ok to put a drop in the carb to lube the slide. Everyone has their own process. The main thing is that it works for you. My first engine I used a name brand "after run oil" and had rust on my bearings. The guy at a LHS told me to use Marvel..
 
After run oil is all about the same. A drop down in the carb with slide open, an a couple drops down the glow plug hole your good to go. I use Hobbico after run have forever with no issues. Blue block makes, an after run with anti corrosion inhibitor that my buddy uses and he likes it. Also always run your piston to BDC inside the piston sleeve after your finished running for the day. Your engine will last longer.
 
Merry Christmas everyone. I hit a home run with the boy, giving him this truck for Christmas. We tried to break in the truck today. After resetting the carb to factory settings, I got it to fire. I was going to do the heat cycle break in so I gave it some gas, But the rig will not move. The big gear on the trans is turning so I am leaning to a internal trans problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as always Thanks For The Help.
 
Check to see if the nut on the "big gear to the transmission" is tight. That nut and spring controls tension to the slipper clutch. if it is too loose it will not grab causing the model to only creap or not ove at all. I learned this lesson the hard way. Also check the reverse shaft from the reverse servo. They can be goofey just make sure it is pushed all the way in to trans for forward motion.
 
As TVJV said it sounds like your slipper clutch is loose. Tighten the nut all the way in and back it off 1/2 turn from tight. I would start there before tearing into the tranny. Also as he said make sure the silver rod coming out of the front of the servo is pushed all the way in. That's what controls your forward and reverse and sometimes it will get hung in between forward and reverse.
 
HI, I checked the nut on the big gear and it was tight, also I pushed the rod in all the way before I shut it down and I tried it pulled out (reverse). when I spin the big gear it turns a lower shaft opposite of the shift shaft that sticks out a inch or so.
 
That is normal. Just so we are clear, That spur gear (big gear to tranny) will spin at a slow RPM and the model not move. But once you get to 1/4 throttle or so it should kick in. Also try this. turn your wheels and see if your center shafts move. this will assure that your keeper pins are not sheared. Wouldn't hurt to tug on your shafts to be sure they are in place.
 
I went out and checked, if I spin 1 back wheel it will spin the front wheels, so I would think the lower end is ok. At what RPM should the trans kick in?
Thanks
 
I couldn't begin to tell you what RPM but 1/4 throttle or a bit before...
 
So today I took the trans apart and the only thing I found was the shift shaft was a little sticky. I gave it a drop of oil and it freed up, reinstalled and started the truck, still no movement. I grabbed the spur gear and could hold it, so pulled the motor, removed the flywheel gear and guess what no clutch shoes.
So what should I buy for shoes? Should I just get stock or is there a better flavor?

Thank you
Mike
 

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