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break-in questions

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shewtro22

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I'm in the process of breaking in my new savage 25, is it normal for it to have absolutetly no throttle response for the first tank of gas? I've finished about half a tank of fuel and it doesn't respond at all when i pull the gas. I know that it will take a lot more to get it completely broken in but should i have any ability to accelerate yet?
 
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this mite be a dumb question but do you have your reciver on and your raido on??? you should have some responce.
 
Yeah i tested everything before each run, the steering and the throttle both worked. The brakes work while the car is moving but i cannot get the engine to rev up at all. Was there anything i was supposd to do to it (i have the rtr) besides set up everything under the housing for the electronics?
 
The carb moves from being about half way open at nuetral, and all the way open at WOT. The engine is getting stronger now as i get further into the break in process, it resonds to throttle now but dies above a certain speed.
 
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You need to complete the break-in process by the book and I am sure you'll see how the engine improves performance from each tank of nitro.
Good luck.

:beer:
 
Should i follow the break in process by the instruction manual (3 tanks before leaning out) or is there another method that is better?
 
From the factory the needle settings are intentionally rich. This will make it bog down when you give it much throttle. Just finish the break in before you start messing with the needles too much. You might have to actually richen the LSN or adjust the idle screw to keep the idle from getting too high during break-in for the first tank. Once you start leaning it out the engine will come alive. I thought the same thing when I first bought mine, I thought surely that wasn't all it would do. Once I started getting it broken in and tuned it was like night and day...
 
Like OXy said, the initial setting of the needles for break-in are extremely rich. Duringthe first few tanks of break in due to the needle settings, you will have little to no power. Acceleration will be at a minium and power will be weak.

Keep following the reccomended break in procedure. After you get it broken in, then it is time to tune. You can lean it out ofter break-in, and then the engine will come alive.

Nitor engines have a limited lifespan. following the break in proceedure extends that life span sometimes tenfold compared to no break in, or improper break in.

Since you are new to the hobby/nitro engines I will give you a hint or two, that if I would have known would have saved me a serious amount of time and money

#1 air filter
Never ever ever, not even for a second run without an air filter, or without it being oiled. Just one tiny small dust particle inside you engine will seriously decrease it's life and power. I used to tune mine or check settings by taking off the air filter and looking inside while running needless to say my engines didn't last long.

Never run without air filter oil, or you're basically pouring sand down the carb.

#2 if it is dying on you after it has been running good, chances are it's too hot, and you are running too lean. richen it up. Running an engine rich will reduce power, but make your engine last longer.

#3 dont skimp.
Most Cheap fuel burns Cheap you get what you pay for.
A cheap or stock airfilter, just get a motor saver when you can.
Glow plugs, get good ones, cheap ones can be a headache.
Batteries, if you skimp on batteries you're riskiing everything
Glow ignitor 90% of my newbie problems were related to an uncharged glow ignitor lol
 
so should 3 tanks be good like the manual says? or should i do more before i lean it out.
 
I'd run a few more than that.

What I would do, is lean it out a little bit, just so you can get a little power out of it to run figure 8's or circles. Putt around a bit.

Whatever you do, lean it little by little in 1/16th incrments when you do start to lean it out. I'd say about 8-10 tanks you can start to lean it for performance, but everyone does break in different.

To make the engine last longer after you lean it out, find the best performance, and then richen it by a 16th or a 32nd of a turn, just so it gets that extra bit of lube/fuel. It will make your engine last longer.

Running rich goes through the fuekl faster, so break in isn;t as long as one would think. When breaking in my .18 a tanks lasted 3-5 minutes. after it was leaned and running good it would last near 15 :D

BTW welcome to RCNT and be sure to ask if you have any more questions, advice here is usualy free to cheap, quick and good :D

**edit**

BTW if you preheat your engine, it will start easier, and wear less. It will expand the piston and sleeve and make for any easier time turning it over. A blow dryer works great for that.

Some people pre heat others don't, but one things for sure your engine again will last longer...

If you have any trouble getting it to run after you lean it out, return it to the factory settings and tune from there.
 
My idle speed is too high, my throttle trim is all the way down but it still idles to fast, it starters to roll forward after being left alone a couple seconds. I'm pretty sure its an adjustment of the idle screw but no matter how i adjust it, i can't solve my problem.
 
Most likely your problem is with the linkage.

Even tho your idle screw is all the way out, the linkage won't allow the carb to close anymore.

Center your radio trim. Then adjust the linkage(rods that connect the servo to the carb) so that when you aren't touching the radio that the carb is closed completely.

Since your carb will be closed completely, you can then screw in the idle screw to open the carb for idle speed.

Your linkage should be adjusted so that when the idle screw is all the way out, the carb is closed (with no throttle applied) then when you push the throttle all the way forward, the carb should be completely open.

Sometimes the servo arm is too short, so it won't open and close all the way. A longer servo horn is the solution to that isssue.

Gluck
 
theres also a throttle sero mod that works great, and i have found that if you relocate the throttle return spring to the hole in the rollbar it works even better...assuming the linkage is the problem
 

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