Brand New 3.3 leaking at flywheel

[suhbliem]

I did the engine work myself, I am a novice. The collar, flywheel, shoes and springs and clutch bell were take from a 5 year old 2.5 engine. Incidentally, the same leak was on the 2.5 when I had it.

The engine seems to run great, but what the hell do I know, I've never had a 3.3 engine. The flywheel leak is bugging me big time though. I know it's not supposed to leak like that.

It's not a drippy kind of leak either, it sprays a straight line from the flywheel in a 360 degree of nitro goodness.

I know my method of installing the flywheel will get mocked and laughed at but it's worth it if it means I can get rid of the leak with some your guys' help.

Basically I installed everything by hand. When I installed the flywheel, the collar nut was only hand tightened down.

I have a feeling this is the culprit of the leak?

Can anyone offer a step by step quick guide on how to install the flywheel to the crankshaft of a motor? That would be amazing.

 

[Metalhead Matt]

Well, if you only hand tightened the flywheel nut, you can expect problems such as this. It could be that the flywheel is sliding around on the shaft, slapping against the bearing shield and destroying it. Not sure though, because this isn't something that people neglect to do very often. To install the flywheel, slide the culit on(brass tapered bushing), then the flywheel, then TIGHTEN THE NUT with an 8mm wrench. Hold the flywheel with channel locks while you tighten it. This is the least of your worries now, however. You'll most likely have to tear the entire engine apart and replace the bearings. Slightly more difficult than tightening a nut. I may be sounding a bit harsh, but you need to learn from this mistake if you plan to enjoy this hobby. There's some good info on here on how to get the bearings out of the engine.

 

[suhbliem]

I should have clarified the by hand part, I tightened the collar nut with a wrench by hand and held the flywheel with a pair of channel lock pliers