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Brake Discs

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ThunderTiger

ThunderTiger

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  1. Bashing
OK, which type brake disc is best, the standard steel ones, the self cooling starcut things, or the stoney looking type (the ones that look like cork)

i want my buggy to stopwhen i command it to,not when IT wants to (if you know what i mean)

Also, whichtype pad would i need ??

You must be thinking i'm thick by asking all these questions, but as a fairly newcomer to the hobby, its stuff i dont yet know about.
 
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i ordered a set of "cradock racig disks" off ebay for like 9 bux.. havent used them yet but there cheeper than the factory replacements and supposed to be the best around.. no fade, dont lock up, fuel doesn't hurt them, and last a few season..
 
whats the stopping power like (i know thats affected by the servo's capability and all) iwant to be able to stop from top speed in the tightest distance possible.
 
rather than throw money at a problem you really should learn to tune stuff....I'm not trying to sound like an ass but alot of your questions (valid ones) seem to ask about adding parts to make the buggy do what it can right out of the box.....the hopups are nice but unless you are into serious racing you really won't see much difference in the performance of your car......try setting the brake pads as close to the discs as possible w/o letting them rub when the center diff turns......you should be able to get that buggy to lock em up w/ no prob using the stock stuff......make sure you aren't letting the servos try and go more than the travel needed (set EPA)......I have 20% EPA limit on my brakes and I can adjust em w/ the little barrel adj to suite track conditions......just some advice from a guy who knows money can't solve everything....
 
I have often complained about my TTR S3 not having as good of brakes as I would like, especially compared to my Hyper 7 PCR.

I then adjusted and reworked the linkages and got better braking. Try playing with the linkage mechanism and the servo throw.
 
I know it's frustrating when you're setting up your $1000 toys and you understand the mechanics of HOW it works but just can't seem to make the one in front of you work......it's easier to start looking at cool hop ups and reading the sales pitches like "BETTER BRAKING w/ NO HEAT FADE" well the reality is that cool brake set also needs to be set up properly or you'll have the same crap as the stock set up......I find it better to learn on the stock stuff and get it dialed....I mean to where you can tear it down and rebuild it in your sleep....THEN when you start to see the performance degrading start looking at hop ups......I know cause I trashed over 100 dollars in Diffs for my T-maxx when I though I knew what I was doing and then ended up just putting the stock diffs back in and learning how to set them up correctly....
 
Plaid,much as i hate to "Rain" on your parade here, i have tried tuning the brakes, but they are not ever going to do the job as well as i want them too. My other buggy had single brake only and stopped faster than this one does with two. Even with a tuning linkage it will not tune to the degree of stopping power I'm looking for. My aim is to eventually race the buggy once i have it dialled in to the way i like, hence whyi want the best possible performance from it, even if it costs me big £££. money is not such a problem to me these days, so i can afford to do whats neccesary.

As for EPA, I'm not sure thats possible with the stock TX unit. All i have is the trim levers for each stick. nothing else.

You do have a point about valid questions, but remember, i AM a newbie to this hobby, (I'm more of an"Electrics" racer), so I'm trying to learn what i can while i still have a brain to hold the data. LOL
 
I wasn't trying to get down on you for it just making a point that I see happening more often than it needed to......and yes I know you're fairly new to the nitro side of the hobbby which was why I ASS-U-MEd (more ass out of me I take it) that you would be looking to get something more from money than tuning.....as far as th etuning the brakes goes I'm not too sure how your linkages are made, but you might be able to change your return spring for a short peice of fuel tubing.....that gives a little more braking power or a longer servo horn can give you more leverage......as far as upgrades to brakes go there's the craddock discs but I haven't needed to try anything different from stock stuff on my buggies so i can't say good or bad about them.....
 
I am serious, he had his first stolen and I can't help but wonder why he would go back to an old outdated design, If I had my rig stolen and my girl was paying I would go with the new stuff. Hell I'd buy the new stuff even if I was paying. Back to the idiot corner for me!
 
back on topic. the steel disks and fiber pads should work great. things to improve braking performace would be:

a shorter servo horn to increase leverage,
lengthen the arms on the brake lever at the center diff,
use a stronger servo,
take off the calipers and scuff up the pads with sandpaper(they glaze over with use),
use fuel tubing instead of springs,
shorter tubing makes the brakes less linear and sometimes stronger,
longer tubing makes the brakes more linear however sometimes weaker,
if your not already, convert to a dual disk setup.

I'm not sure what type of pad TTR uses, but Xray has ferodo pad material and it should be pretty easy to cut it to fit a TTR caliper. it comes in both a hard and soft compound. the brakes on my XB8 are strong enough with only a single disk to do an endo in the grass if i want.
 
OK, here goes,

My VERY first buggy was an EB3, later sold on to finance my first EB4 S2 which was stolen. The Third( and present) buggy i bought, was again an EB4 S2. Differences in this one are center diff, all round ball bearings and dual transmission brake.

I was not aware the "EB4 S2" was "OLD" stuff, as have only recently seen it appearing in local shops in last 3 - 4 months.

As to the brakes, i will be upgrading the throttle/brake servo to super torque type rather than standard. The linkage for the t/b is a custom part that allows independant adjustment of each brake and the throttle seperately to each other. The brake actuation rods are connected to the pads actuators by a standard type bar BUT it then connects to a ball connector to allow easier alignment of the servo arm link. (easier to show with pic than explain).

Checked all pads for glazing and removed it where neccesary, but buggy still wont stop as required. I run in a grassy field area, but i run a specific line weaving through close grouped trees and i run to each boundary hedge (inc undergrowth) as closely as possible, so i need the buggy to slow down or stop pretty darn fast. Its all to do with controlling the buggy to the absolute maximum of its performance, which, with these brakes, i dont feel happy doing. I end up backing off on the throttle halfway down each run !!!
 
how did your last S2 respond to braking? did you ever have to upgrade that one? if so what did ya use?.....brakes are a bitch to get set right for me but when I get em locked in they are on point 100% the way I like.....I always seem to find there is some lil trick that will make em closer to what I want w/o upgrading the parts.....I guess a few people here have said the S2 brakes were a little less than desireable......ask Revo how he set his up......the stuff Corrado listed is pretty much all I've had to do and bam, I got lock em up, stop in your face brakes......
 
The previous S2 had only front brake and stopped a shed load faster, it also had a solid center drive axle (the one that holds the main gear) so there was less rotational mass. Maybe going back to that will help the braking ??
~
it was just nipped past factory setting on the brake and it stopped on a nickel.
 
First thing I did was to move the brake levers that are located at the brakes, just above the diff, closer in, i.e., shorter. That provided faster breaking. It does reduce leverage, but it turned out the servo was not reacting quick enough through the loss of time and energy lost in longer linkage. I then moved the other end of the brake linkage, at the servo arm, to a more outer hole. Last thing I did wasrun through the brake pads with a bit of sandpaper to give them a surface to grip with, and then made sure that the pads were as close to the brake disc as possible without dragging. They do not need to float much.
 
HMMMMmmmmmmmmm, you saying that has reminded me of something i need to do.

I did try that with the levers, but even then, not as good as hoped.will try the sandpaper treatment and see what happens and let you know how i get on.
 

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