black window outline

[spongebobspongebob]

I'm getting ready to paint my first body. it's the new 350z. I've got several questions, first, scuff the surfaces to be painted with scotchbrite first or not? secondly, what's the most effective way to get a black outline around the windows? I thougt about getting a black paint pen, and just tracing the window masks, but I really don't know the right way. Also, the front wheel wells have a line to cut on, but the back ones don't, any suggestions? I almost forgot, cut before or after paint? I'm leaning towards cutting after so I can see better, but I've heard other suggest to cut first. any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[FastEddy]

Cut after you paint. The extra gives you a place to hold as well as test your colors.
I have never scuffed the inside but I know some people do. I just place the window masks on then set it in the sink and wash the inside with soap and water. I give it a full day to dry then start it.

I'm probably the worlds worse painter so I will leave the rest of your questions for someone who knows.

Its good to see you post. I see you on the site looking around all the time.

 

[Digital Liquid]

Did the body come w/ any decals? You should see the window edging in w/ the decals. The HPI bodies are killer and come w/ some great decals. As far as your other questions go, you are going to get various answers and there really isn't a clean cut "best" answer. It's all a matter of preference.

Here is what I would recommend:

---Use the decals for your trim work (If you don't have any, then simply don't do anything to them, just leave it w/out trim).

---But if you really want trim & have no decals, then before you take the window masking off, simply trim a small edge off the window decal and then paint it black. After it has dried, then you can pull off the remainder of the window masking (as long as you are completely done painting).

---Cut before you paint to reduce the risk of scratching your new paint with scissors, dremmel, etc.

---Before you paint put the body on the car and mark the post holes on the outside of the body. Use can use a markder for this.

---Since you don't have any wheel trim lines for the back wheel. This would be a good time to trace the back wheel out also. You can take a wheel off the front and hold it on the outside of the body to use as a stencil. Just make sure that the stencil wheel lines up exactly w/ the rear wheel.

---I wouldn't recommend scuffing up the body. As long as you spray in light coats and give it adequate time to dry b/t coats, then you will be fine.

 

[spongebobspongebob]

About the window trim, it's a proline body, and it didn't include the decals for it. I do like the idea of using the cutout from the front as a stencil for the rear. You'll love this one, I can't make my body post holes because I don't have the car yet, lol. I got the airbrush as a gift from the wife, and for some reason I couldn't resist doing this tc body. Plus, the wife likes shiny things, and if she's impressed with this body, I doubt she'll mind me spending the cash on the rest of the car. pretty good, huh

 

[Silent]

I used to sand the insided of the body with ultra fine wet/dry sandpaper, but then I started using chome... alclad2 or spazstics. The chrome WON"T work if you sand so I don't anymore and haven't had a problem. Just wash the inside good with dish detergent.

I always prefer to fit the body first, then paint. My buds I paint for fit after I hand them the painted body, so its your preference

With your new airbrush, I would recommend trying Bob Dively's Liquid Mask. Brush on 3-4 coats.... make your designs with a marker on the outside film.... and exacto the layers underneath. With this stuff you can design anything, including the window trim.

 

[Hypedonrc]

I use the geen side of a kitchen spong when washing, and that seems to scatch it a bit to help the paint stick. I also suggest liquid mask. I brushed it on the last time, and only did 2 coats, and it left a few specks here and there, so I would suggest an air brush if possible, or as Silent said, 3-4 coats. Liquid mask is the way to go! then when you wand to outline your windows you just have to cut it out, and paint. Remember, dark colors first, and don't rush. Let it dry completely. Even if it takes a couple days to paint, the more time you spend the better the results.

 

[ImBroken]

Just remember.... If you decide to scuff the inside before painting, DO NOT do the window areas, or any place you will be shooting chrome... I personally, have never scuffed a lid before painting. As everyone pointed out, a good cleaning with soap & water is needed to remove any mold residues. Just before I shoot a color, I usually wipe the area carefully with some rubbing alcohol on a clean cloth to remove any oils from handling the masks... Good Luck...

 

[ZANDOR]

You'll love this one, I can't make my body post holes because I don't have the car yet, lol. I got the airbrush as a gift from the wife, and for some reason I couldn't resist doing this tc body. Plus, the wife likes shiny things, and if she's impressed with this body, I doubt she'll mind me spending the cash on the rest of the car. pretty good, huh

your on to something there LOL good call Bro

 

[2fast4u]

What is Bob Dively's Liquid Mask? how does it work?

 

[Silent]

Its a rubberized film, that you can exacto and peel off and paint one area at a time. I am going to be painting two bodies in a couple weeks using it, and plan to do a Tute, but in the meantime, here's a site that will explain a little more..........
Bob Dively's Liquid Mask Usage

 

[2fast4u]

ok i now get that when u cut it of wont the exacto scratch the body??

 

[Silent]

Just trail the exacto with just enough slight pressure to cut the mask and not the lexan. Since its on a paint edge you won't see it. On overlapping layers though, sometimes you can barely see it.