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Big Block Maxx

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NJRC

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Someone on here had a Tmaxx with an nitro star .25 from there Savage.
I have an extra nitro star .25 from my friends savage and I was wondering what chassis and drive line parts would I need to build this big block Tmaxx??

Right now my Maxx is equipped with MIP parts all around and a forward only tranny with RPM parts all around. I have had no luck with two engines on this current Maxx such as a Sirio 18TX and a Picco .21 Max.

Will my extra Nitro Star .25 work with a Tmaxx build and if so, like I said, which chassis and drive lines should I go for?....any helpfull links or previous builds like this?

Thanks
 
Your truck might be able to handle that engine with those parts. But, your diffs will die soon if they are stock. UE makes some nice replacements.
 
My firesnd works @ the LHS and he has tthe OS MAX 21 in his T-Maxx u ahve 2 buy a hole ne chassis and he ripped apart the stock dog-bones and replaced them w/ Universal all metal dog bones used on 1/8 buggys and the diffs. stile holdin' up but he runs out of second gear really fast , he needs 2 gear down. but u wont have the gear down problem w/ the Savage engine. W/ that engine the most i think u'll have 2 do is get a new chassis..................
 
I was the guy in fact NJRC that you are talking about. I had a .25 nitro star in my T-Maxx. Well let me rephrase that, my supermaxx. Since then, it has gone through alot of restoration. No, the .25 nitro star will not work on your stock chassis. You have to buy a new chassis, and or a .21 conversion kit. When I first did this whole .21 conversion upgrade, I had the stock sliders and diffs, etc. Now, I have a Wasp .26 on my SuperMaxx, with the stock diffs, which have been shimmed and rebuilt. Stock Diffs are O.K., I just suggest you tear them down and do some shimming like myself. If you do run the stock diffs, I suggest you get the Kippster cups instead of the plastic Traxxas' ones. They will make your diffs twice as strong. I do notice a decrease in my overall speed, because I changed out the spur, and clutch bell to a 1/8 scale. Which basically means you have a whole lot more choices when it comes to gearing. If you have any questions just PM me, and I'll answer anything you might have a question about. Just remember, when you go with a .21 sized engine, you are going to spend alot of cash. I have over $2000 invested in my Maxx. Good luck!!

Woody
 
You don't have to spend $2000 to have a .21 Maxx but, you do if you want the best .21 Maxx! I have a Full UE Supermaxx which is by far the best MT I have ever owned but, my XTM converted Maxx's have there good points as well! It will still cost you around $650-$750 for a well built .21 Maxx that will not break every time you start it but, that's far from the $1800-$2200 price tag a Supermaxx will have.
 
I've run a hpi S-25 and an xtm 24.7 thru my t-maxx with only steel cvd's and RRP double disk slipper as upgrades to the the drivetrain. i have my diffs shimmed, other than that there stock. the cvd's came with my xtm conversion kit, the stock cvd pins suck, use these in there place instead

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=GSCST064

since putting those in i havnt broke one pin yet..were as before i would break the xtm pins roughly every other time running. other than that the tranny/drivetrain has been holding up great. now the rest of my t-maxx is anthing but stock....had to go that route so it wouldnt break everytime out.....
 

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