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notverrysmart
RCTalk Basher
not sure about the xl, but with the x you have to upgrade your steering servo to get a quicker response time on your stearing
Gee
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56K Warning. Not because of the pictures though.
This is another open question. What part of the steering are you having problems with? Left or Right? lol Maybe it just the overall suspsion and handling you are not happy with? Taking out the spacer can improve that area. As mentioned above an upgraded steering servo will improve the steering.
I haven't had my XL all that long so I can still relate to not being happy with it in that area. I have gotten it to a point that I no longer contemplate he best way to sale it. There were six things that I upgraded, un-upgraded, fixed, broke, replaced, or just plain turned a small wrench a coulple of time.Here's what I went through trying to get mine dialed in. Just a note there is some dry humor in the following post. IMO dry humor maybe not yours, but be warned that I will be laughing while some is reading it.
I installed a servo with more torque then stock. You need some power for it to hold the tires in a turned position wheny you out running your buddy for hell or high water. Speed isn't as important in the steering for me just bashing. I usually have to tone done the servos speed and sensitivity around center anyway. So I put a HiTec HS5955TG that has 333oz at 6v in mine for the steering. Could use a faster one for the throttle brake though. No such thing as overkill from where I come from. If you look up the servo you'll see it is dicontinued, so that may also give and indication of my age and music prefrerences.
A good 6cell hump pack/rx pack should be the minimum to run your new high tourque servo and other electronics. If you look at Futaba description of their new brushless servo is says for NiCD use only. Do you guys own any of those? That's one to think about. I did finally get a reply from someone at Futaba. I use a 2s lipo RX pack and haven't needed to swap it out for a fresh pack during a session yet. Was the best investment I made while I was tuning the suspension, well close. This may be a little dramatic and just becuse I live in Spokane, WA. That doesn't mean I work for our support the popular lipo that's biz is located here. Okay, disclaimer out of the way....... soon after your rc is turned on the Nihns voltage starts to slowly drop. So the 333oz at 6v servo really isn't getting 6v or performing as you would expect. It all goes down hill from there and the unemployement line is starting to look like the next stop for mr 333oz servo due to an unsatisfactroy performance review. But wait, who to blame for sending and innocent man to jail. The judge or the Jury. So let dump the nihm off in time for the head count and the local lockup and give Mr Lipo a chance. The lipo comes in and provides 6v to the servos and receivers all the way through until the LVC is detected then shuts down. Unless your LVC is set for under 6v your servos and receiver are going to perform at thier top 6v consistently.
The bellcrank upgrade and/or bearing upgrade is a debate for some people from what I 've read. One of my pet peeves is slop in the steering and well I have all kinds of money "NOT" so I tried both upgrades, For the record it was not at the same time or even the same coastal resort. I did do the bearings and didn't get the improvement or satisfaction I thougth I would. I then got an all aluminum bellcrank setup on mine (names brands were left out to protect me from ridicule, similar to the fat chick on the moped.) and well it was an improvement but it was not a fix for the slop that I detest. I still have some steering slop in some of my rcs but I am dealing with it and will continue to go to therapy until it doesn't help anymore.
The Tera Pins on mine made it seem more instable then stable. I swapped them out for some 23mm 40s moabs. Was a great improvement to my setup. I also had a set of new 23mm 40s mashers that I tested on it. IMO the 40s series Mashers are the better all around tire. I have what's been called a mini Les Schwas store on my shelves. Once again the therapish said it is not a sick fetish. Some people collect little spoons from odd placed. My God, it's not like I carry them all under my trench coat anymore. Anyway I can't wait to be reunited with another set of masher for the XL. I had to let that set go due to the rushed job I did taping and glueing then. It easier to deal with someone elses tire mistake then it is your own. It was the best for all concerned.
The rear turnbucks (Ball sets) on mine would seem to wear out fast and create some play allowing the XL to take off with a heading of left or right tendencies. Not sever like left or right but enought that it would make you correct and at time lose controll or fish tail all the way down the dirt road. The kids cheered thinking it was on purpose. So I just wave and smile like I was in total control the whole time. The lack of consistency in which way made it difficult to figure out the cause at first. I used some Beefy truggy links to fix that up. It holds tighter with them on. The up-rights still break just as regularly as before. The other plus is that balls don't pop off these like the HPI would if you didn't put the washer under your balls. So know I can worry more about my hair, instead of jumping and my balls popping off in front of the nieghbors.
Last was the most effective and least expensive. I reinstalled the stock springs and set the toe-in on the rears the same and then the front the same. I found that a framers square laid flat against the TVC will allow you to slide it back to the tire. Then I dialed the center of tire to the mark on the ruler for the degree I was wanting. The #5 turned out to be my center line. Same on the other side and that took care of the the majority of the XL getting so out of controll while taking off and at high speeds. Found the other part of the problem was my hand on the steering knob. If I would just let go it went, seemed to take off straigher and hold that line very well. So as the old saying goes. Sometime you have to let go if you want to.......
This is another open question. What part of the steering are you having problems with? Left or Right? lol Maybe it just the overall suspsion and handling you are not happy with? Taking out the spacer can improve that area. As mentioned above an upgraded steering servo will improve the steering.
I haven't had my XL all that long so I can still relate to not being happy with it in that area. I have gotten it to a point that I no longer contemplate he best way to sale it. There were six things that I upgraded, un-upgraded, fixed, broke, replaced, or just plain turned a small wrench a coulple of time.Here's what I went through trying to get mine dialed in. Just a note there is some dry humor in the following post. IMO dry humor maybe not yours, but be warned that I will be laughing while some is reading it.
I installed a servo with more torque then stock. You need some power for it to hold the tires in a turned position wheny you out running your buddy for hell or high water. Speed isn't as important in the steering for me just bashing. I usually have to tone done the servos speed and sensitivity around center anyway. So I put a HiTec HS5955TG that has 333oz at 6v in mine for the steering. Could use a faster one for the throttle brake though. No such thing as overkill from where I come from. If you look up the servo you'll see it is dicontinued, so that may also give and indication of my age and music prefrerences.
A good 6cell hump pack/rx pack should be the minimum to run your new high tourque servo and other electronics. If you look at Futaba description of their new brushless servo is says for NiCD use only. Do you guys own any of those? That's one to think about. I did finally get a reply from someone at Futaba. I use a 2s lipo RX pack and haven't needed to swap it out for a fresh pack during a session yet. Was the best investment I made while I was tuning the suspension, well close. This may be a little dramatic and just becuse I live in Spokane, WA. That doesn't mean I work for our support the popular lipo that's biz is located here. Okay, disclaimer out of the way....... soon after your rc is turned on the Nihns voltage starts to slowly drop. So the 333oz at 6v servo really isn't getting 6v or performing as you would expect. It all goes down hill from there and the unemployement line is starting to look like the next stop for mr 333oz servo due to an unsatisfactroy performance review. But wait, who to blame for sending and innocent man to jail. The judge or the Jury. So let dump the nihm off in time for the head count and the local lockup and give Mr Lipo a chance. The lipo comes in and provides 6v to the servos and receivers all the way through until the LVC is detected then shuts down. Unless your LVC is set for under 6v your servos and receiver are going to perform at thier top 6v consistently.
The bellcrank upgrade and/or bearing upgrade is a debate for some people from what I 've read. One of my pet peeves is slop in the steering and well I have all kinds of money "NOT" so I tried both upgrades, For the record it was not at the same time or even the same coastal resort. I did do the bearings and didn't get the improvement or satisfaction I thougth I would. I then got an all aluminum bellcrank setup on mine (names brands were left out to protect me from ridicule, similar to the fat chick on the moped.) and well it was an improvement but it was not a fix for the slop that I detest. I still have some steering slop in some of my rcs but I am dealing with it and will continue to go to therapy until it doesn't help anymore.
The Tera Pins on mine made it seem more instable then stable. I swapped them out for some 23mm 40s moabs. Was a great improvement to my setup. I also had a set of new 23mm 40s mashers that I tested on it. IMO the 40s series Mashers are the better all around tire. I have what's been called a mini Les Schwas store on my shelves. Once again the therapish said it is not a sick fetish. Some people collect little spoons from odd placed. My God, it's not like I carry them all under my trench coat anymore. Anyway I can't wait to be reunited with another set of masher for the XL. I had to let that set go due to the rushed job I did taping and glueing then. It easier to deal with someone elses tire mistake then it is your own. It was the best for all concerned.
The rear turnbucks (Ball sets) on mine would seem to wear out fast and create some play allowing the XL to take off with a heading of left or right tendencies. Not sever like left or right but enought that it would make you correct and at time lose controll or fish tail all the way down the dirt road. The kids cheered thinking it was on purpose. So I just wave and smile like I was in total control the whole time. The lack of consistency in which way made it difficult to figure out the cause at first. I used some Beefy truggy links to fix that up. It holds tighter with them on. The up-rights still break just as regularly as before. The other plus is that balls don't pop off these like the HPI would if you didn't put the washer under your balls. So know I can worry more about my hair, instead of jumping and my balls popping off in front of the nieghbors.
Last was the most effective and least expensive. I reinstalled the stock springs and set the toe-in on the rears the same and then the front the same. I found that a framers square laid flat against the TVC will allow you to slide it back to the tire. Then I dialed the center of tire to the mark on the ruler for the degree I was wanting. The #5 turned out to be my center line. Same on the other side and that took care of the the majority of the XL getting so out of controll while taking off and at high speeds. Found the other part of the problem was my hand on the steering knob. If I would just let go it went, seemed to take off straigher and hold that line very well. So as the old saying goes. Sometime you have to let go if you want to.......
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