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Anybody tell me about my REVO?

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MCNorris

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  1. Bashing
I am new to Nitro R/C, and just got my first one yesterday, can anybody tell me a little about any mods it has? here are some pics

100_1377.webp

100_1379.webp

100_1382.webp
 
You've got aluminum rockers, that's what the shocks ends are connected to.
Aluminum bumper supports also, rims and tires are upgraded.
On the surface, that's all I see.

If you're wanting suggestions, I'd get a fuel filter for sure, didn't see one in pic. Once you're comfortable with driving it, I'd get the FOC (forward only conversion). That will give you a little more power by removing most of the gears in the tranny. Also, I highly recommend a temp gun if you don't already have one. A fail-safe is another must have in my book. I like the MotorSaver air filters, they let the engine breath a little better and I think they are a better filter than the stock one.

It's a nice looking Revo. Those white RPM arms can be dyed any color that RIT makes.
 
I can just take them off and soak them in RIT dye? and are the wheels/tires any good, I don't like them so I am trying to trade them off for a set with more bite and chrome rims any idea about what price value they would be worth for a trade? and what is a fail-safe?
 
A fail safe is somthing that will either cut off the motor, or return the rig to idle if it loses battery or remote range.
So how much you score it for?
 
I actually traded it for a Schecter C-1 (that I got for free) so technically I got it for free
 
I'm not real sure what brand the wheels and tires are, my Revo still has the stock ones on it, so I'm no help with those. There are plenty of other members who will know and I'm sure by tomorrow afternoon you'll have an answer for sure.

Yup, you can dye them, here is a link to the RPM website RPM. It gives tips on how to dye them, but I didn't find it right away. Hunt around, I know it's there somewhere. Best thing about RPM stuff, it's guaranteed for life. If you break it, they'll send you a replacement for it.

A fail-safe is an electronic module that fits in the receiver box, it connects between your throttle servo and the receiver (Opti-Drive in this case). Let's say you're running it and your transmitter batteries die or you get some major interference, the servo will hold the throttle in whatever position it was in when you lost contact with the truck. If it was wide open when it lost contact, you would have a run away rig, which can lead to a blown engine or at the very least, an ugly crash. A fail-safe can detect a loss of signal from the transmitter and it will return the throttle to the idle position and most fail-safes now-a-days have the ability to apply the brakes as well. It's a decent investment for $20-$30.
 
the place where the ball joint deal goes into the hole in the steering knuckle..... if that makes sence, well every time I spin it around or hit a big bump the whole bottom A arm comes out, do I need a new steering knuckle or can I just buy the part that holds it in
 
the place where the ball joint deal goes into the hole in the steering knuckle..... if that makes sence, well every time I spin it around or hit a big bump the whole bottom A arm comes out, do I need a new steering knuckle or can I just buy the part that holds it in

so are you saying that the ball joint pulls out of the A-arm or the ball joint pulls out of the knuckle. if it pulls out of knuckle sounds like the back of the knuckle is worn or broke. If it pulls out of a-arm then the threads are stipped out. Any ways i sent you a PM so check it out.
 
If you are saying the pillow balls pop out of the axle carriers (this is common with the stock ones) then I strongly recommend getting RPM axle carriers. They are more expensive but are well worth it. But if the threaded end pulls out of the arm then you need new A-arms. I would replace them with RPMs again you are not suppose to tighten them down past the thread if you tighten them to the point that more then just the threaded part goes in it strips the plastic. RPM parts have a Lifetime warranty as long as they are not broken by neglect. You will learn alot from the people here. Feel free to use the search option on the forums there are tons of info.

Here is a good site for how to's.
http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/nrevo-pit-lane.asp
 
yea scooby my tires look exactly like that, and the ball joint pops out of the knuckle
 
you have good tires for racing on a prepared track.The 23mm hexes will limit your tire and wheel selection although I think you will find what you want in 23mm if thats what hex you have.
 
If you are going to put those chrome things on the 1/8 scale trucks, i can almost gurantee they will strip out the hex's in the first gallon. You can get some chrome paint on em and go from thre, but i think they look good in white.
 
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