ANOTHER Tmaxx problem

[Kr0niK]

I don't think this is related to tmaxx as a brand but its on a tmaxx so here it is...

I purchased an OS .18 for my truck and it is having a very hard time turning it over. If the glow plug is out or loose (less compression) the ezstart turns it over ok. But when it is tight and there is full compression it gets to TDC, or very close to it, and stops. The ezstart then doesn't have enough power to turn it. Will a bigger battery in the ezstart control do the trick or am I going to have to find a crank and pull start for it??

 

[vbgagnon]

Loosen the glow plug so the ezstart can turn the engine over, then use a standard glow driver (not the ez start glowdriver) and start the engine. Once you have it running tighten the glow plug. This should solve your problem.

 

[Kr0niK]

Loosen the glow plug so the ezstart can turn the engine over, then use a standard glow driver (not the ez start glowdriver) and start the engine. Once you have it running tighten the glow plug. This should solve your problem.

I do use a seperate igniter. Your suggestion does work, I tried it a couple times, but even then if it stops close to TDC there still isn't enough juice to get it turning again. I have to move the flywheel by hand and then loosen the glow plug and then put on the igniter and ezstart and IF it starts take off everything and tighten the glow plug. Assuming it doesn't stall this is still a very tedious task when it shouldn't be.

 

[jon2]

I don't think this is related to tmaxx as a brand but its on a tmaxx so here it is...

I purchased an OS .18 for my truck and it is having a very hard time turning it over. If the glow plug is out or loose (less compression) the ezstart turns it over ok. But when it is tight and there is full compression it gets to TDC, or very close to it, and stops. The ezstart then doesn't have enough power to turn it. Will a bigger battery in the ezstart control do the trick or am I going to have to find a crank and pull start for it??

Ahh the joys of a new engine.

WHat you need to do is to add some after run oil to the engine . Remove the plug and addd like 2-4 drops of ARO. While the plug is off, cylce the engine for a couple seconds to let the ARO work its way through. Make sure that you pinch the fuel line to the carb is pinched while you do this so no additional fuel goes in the engine.

IMO ditch the blue wire to the glo plug as that will drain your ez start battery fast. Use an external ignitor to lite your plug up.

Good Luck

Jon

I do use a seperate igniter. Your suggestion does work, I tried it a couple times, but even then if it stops close to TDC there still isn't enough juice to get it turning again. I have to move the flywheel by hand and then loosen the glow plug and then put on the igniter and ezstart and IF it starts take off everything and tighten the glow plug. Assuming it doesn't stall this is still a very tedious task when it shouldn't be.

This will happen. It is common for new engines to lock up at TDC. The pinch on a new engine is pretty dang strong and tight.

 

[Kr0niK]

Yeah I don't use the ezstart plug wire, I haven't had it that long and already notice the huge difference in battery life.

Does the engine need to be hot for the ARO to work better or is it being cold fine as well?

Will a stronger battery work better?

 

[vbgagnon]

I forgot to mention this before, but take a hair dryer, or a heat gun (preferable) and heat the engine up as much as possible. This will help big time!

 

[jon2]

Yeah I don't use the ezstart plug wire, I haven't had it that long and already notice the huge difference in battery life.

Does the engine need to be hot for the ARO to work better or is it being cold fine as well?

Will a stronger battery work better?

No it does not need to be hot. All we want to accomplish is to lubricate the piston and Sleeve to alleviate the tight pinch. I am going to use a 3000 generic pack in the ez start till I convert the engine to use the RD Logics starter box.That will be sometime though... 120 dollar box is too much right now.

I forgot to mention this before, but take a hair dryer, or a heat gun (preferable) and heat the engine up as much as possible. This will help big time!

That will help. Good Call VB, I am used to using that only in the 21 size engines....

 

[Kr0niK]

OK, thanks guys. Gives me some stuff to try. The hair dryer I have used on my old truck but not on this one yet. Figured it was warm enough out but I'll give it a shot anyway.

My stock battery is a 2500, is that too low?

 

[jon2]

OK, thanks guys. Gives me some stuff to try. The hair dryer I have used on my old truck but not on this one yet. Figured it was warm enough out but I'll give it a shot anyway.

My stock battery is a 2500, is that too low?

No that is fine, I used to use a 1500 and a 2000 but now I use a hobbico cell.

 

[Kr0niK]

Ok cool,

Guess I'll do that along with the tranny mod I'm doin tonight.

Thanks guys, I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[Kr0niK]

Well those suggestions helped, but still the same problem.

With heating up the head and putting in the ARO I can now turn it every time with the glow plug tightened as it should be. But as soon as ANY amount of fuel is added it attempts to start and then it stops. I've had to turn the idle screw way down so that no fuel gets in when turning over and then I'm feathering the throttle by hand as to not let too much fuel in. This is getting frustrating. Although I do realize that compression is a good thing, it's no fun to have an engine that I can't start because it is "too good" lol.

Any more help from the masses???

 

[jon2]

How many tanks have you put through this mill? I have the break in coming on the 3.3 revo and I am expecting to go through this as well.

Patience grasshopper.

you want to keep your settings to break in settings so to keep it rich. What it sounds like is your engine is loading up fast. Set the needles back to factory or at break in and start again. If you lean it out like you are doing, you can cause more of a problem.

 

[Kr0niK]

How many tanks have you put through this mill? I have the break in coming on the 3.3 revo and I am expecting to go through this as well.

Patience grasshopper.

you want to keep your settings to break in settings so to keep it rich. What it sounds like is your engine is loading up fast. Set the needles back to factory or at break in and start again. If you lean it out like you are doing, you can cause more of a problem.

No no no, I'm not leaning it out. Just turning the idle screw down so I can regulate the fuel on start, not while it's running. It's still at factory settings as far as lsn and hsn go.

 

[SMaxxin]

I went through this for a while when I broke in the 4.6 Savage, you will have to put up with it until the break in is complete and the engine loosens up a little.

 

[Kr0niK]

I went through this for a while when I broke in the 4.6 Savage, you will have to put up with it until the break in is complete and the engine loosens up a little.

Yeah, I kind of figured it would work better once broke in but it sure is a pain breaking it in heh.

 

[SuperMaxx83]

why not just dump the easy start and buy a pullstart and all of yur problems will go away i am not a easy start fan i hate depending on a battery to have fun it always dies when you dont want it to

 

[Kr0niK]

Well I figured out the issue. Mostly my fault for not checking. I didn't touch the hsn or lsn out of the box on the engine, so I figured it was "factory settings". Nope. I took out the manual and put it to those settings and it now starts fine. When it's cool it will still stop tdc but not even close to as often. Thanks for the help folks.

I agree with you Supermaxx but it's all I have at the moment and with 2 batteries it's not so bad.

 

[Plaidfish]

Just wanted to add....yes using a higher rated battery pack will give your starter motor more torque.....2500mah is ok but if your mill is really tight see if a friend has an old race pack you can borrow....the matched cells and higher ratings will turn a lot more load......