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Another guy new to nitro...

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S

Stadiumtruck guy

RC Newbie
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  2. Racing
Hey all! hope you guy's can give me a hand here.:help:

Problem started after i ran out of fuel on my XTM nitro truck.I went to put some more fuel in the tank,then began to prime it.For tho's of you that know/seen the truck the vacuum line and fuel line are blue.Well, so is my fuel,witch caused me to flood it.so i take tho glow plug out and begin to pull the starter until i see that all the fuel is gone.Then i go to reinstall the glow plug,and for some reason it didn't feel like it was threading in all the way.So i go to the hobby shop and have the guy look at it. he tried it and said it seams to be in there ok to me.I also grabbed some super lime green lines so i can see the fuel travel allot better for later priming..

Now i walk out the door and start it by my car,finally cranks over.But the idle seamed to be very high. So i take it for a quick spin hardly go's anywhere.And the guy Wont help me unless i pay. Got pissed and went home. Changed the lines and cranked it up again,still idle way high but was starting to creep higher.Only this time i tried to give it gas and it died,After it died tho i can hear something spinning. Plus there is air bubbles in the fuel line but they are the size of the candy called Nerds.

Soo, what could be the issue i changed nothing to the truck did not mess with any of the needles either cuzz it was fine where they were at.Could it be the small air bubbles? The spinning i am hearing?:shrug:
 
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I think you stripped or cross threaded the head button. The part the GP goes in. You can find a new one cheap on E-Bay or www.hobbypeople.net.
The bubbles indicate a masssive air leak. don't run it until you resolve the problem.
 
So i removed the Cylinder head to see if the GP was all the way in and it was. So i removed the GP that could have bin stripped and put in another that i had in there before. it threaded just fine into the Head Button.I also gave it 10 pull starts while the GP was out. Next after that seamed to check out ok to me i removed the fuel tank and examined it very carefully. No cracks the O-ring is fine also.I reinstalled the fuel tank and re primed the fuel to the carb. I saw zero bubbles except for one small one that is in there now, very small tho.

Now here is where my next problem lies. After i did all that and saw no bubbles i put the GP back in and started to crank it up.... Well as soon as i gave the first pull it was hard right away.

So now what could be the issue? i did the unfludding process and i had no problem pulling the pull start UNTIL the GP goe's back in ,check everything for leaks Tank, Lines.Cleaned the air filter to.What is causing the turn over to be so hard when the GP is in,compared to when it is not?
 
Compression! Preheat the engine with a hair dryer for about 5 minutes and slightly loosen the glow plug. Start the engine, let it idle with the ignitor attached and revit slowly a few times to clear it out. Remove the ignitor and tighten the glow plug.
 
OK ill try that,I just didn't want to keep tugging away when i didn't really no for sure what was going on.I just hate the fact that it is like practically brand new truck to. But i really appreciate the help bro. its nice to know there are still people willing to help a new guy out.
 
YW and don't worry, as the engine wears in it will be much easier to start.
The piston may possibly be stuck at top dead center, if it refuses to turn over at all.
 
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Went to the hobby shop again today told the guy my problems.Also Wound up buying a new GP, which I'm glad i did because it seamed to start right up after that.But as i went to give it gas the truck died.So i slowly tuned it to where now i can give it throttle with out it cutting of from to much fuel still needs to be leaned out some more.I think i need to adjust the throttle trim a tad bit more because on full break it dies. So i think I'm getting on the right road here now![:D]

Next problem is now when i give it almost half throttle... The car didnt go anywhere lol. This break in really tells you if nitro is for you or not. And its for me! it is a pain but at the same time rewarding,and i love trying to learn//figure it all out!

But yeah about the car not moving under throttle.Slipper clutch need to be adjusted now?? it worked fine before but so did the engine lol![:)]
 
Could just be too rich still, continue leaning it out and see if it moves.
If not I would check the engine clutch and the slipper clutch. If this engine has a LSN it sounds like you need to lean it out now. That will improve idle quality and acceleration.
If the clutch springs inside the clutchbell broke it would make it hard to start and the wheels would turn at idle. Thus causing it to stall when you apply the brakes. The car would still move forward though. So check your slipper, rev the engine and see if the clutchbell is moving and if the slipper is not engaging enough.
 
Scrogg said:
Could just be too rich still, continue leaning it out and see if it moves.
If not I would check the engine clutch and the slipper clutch. If this engine has a LSN it sounds like you need to lean it out now. That will improve idle quality and acceleration.
If the clutch springs inside the clutchbell broke it would make it hard to start and the wheels would turn at idle. Thus causing it to stall when you apply the brakes. The car would still move forward though. So check your slipper, rev the engine and see if the clutchbell is moving and if the slipper is not engaging enough.
Click to expand...

The truck is all ready broken in. Well i mean it is to where i can give it full throttle now.But its at the hobby shop now. I was just getting to mind boggled,so i told the guy "just tell me exactly what was wrong with it and how you fixed it step by step.
 
when you make adjustments on high and idle use the clock method 1 hour at a time that way you don't too far out one way or another JT
 

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