Looks like you got a great start. Might want to look at obtaining the Xtreame Carbon fiber battery holder. and get a RPM receiver box small and drop that excess weight, and also the carbon fiber throttle servo holder works great and removes a lot of added weight. I like the Tenko throttle system best. Might go for an additional fuel filter and an a intercooler to cool the exhaust gasses before they go into the tank. There is a lot of debate on it but I think if you heat the fuel you will start to bleed off your intromethane before it reaches the carb. Like what has all ready been said - I would go with a different wing. I like the Proline wing for racing. You also should look at an RR Gen 3 slipper clutch with harden spur gear. with the Picco 21 you should probably go with the RR metal gears in the transmission - if nothing else go with the close ratio for racing. For body roll, run top holes at the back and bottom holes at the front adds a little more steering. Also on Steering you need to move the front A arms back so that you can get at least 6 spacers in for the top A arm, the increased caster is for better turning - up to a point. For springs I run the green in the front and gold in the back but it depends in the track as well. Shock oil I run 50wt in front and 55wt in the back. You need to scale it out with a small weight scale to see that your balanced out - you probably running 8.5 to 9 pounds just guessing. I would go with the integy wing mount on the back as well. I assume your running back brakes as well and vented brake disk on the front. I want you to look at how loose the wheels are. If you have allot of slack in the wheels you can build your own brass inserts over the axel. Are you running steel dog bones to the wheels. You can get rid of the stock hubs and go with the ofna hubs. ON the motor more opinions - I would pull that roto start it weighs too much and buy the racing back plate for it and use a bump start. Everyone will give you a hard time about bump start boxes but if you get the OFNA REVO box and cut out some of the material on top you can raise the start wheel to where it will work for you, by putting spacers under the electric motor and frame At our track we have a special REVO class for REVO trucks only but we are slowly loosing our REVO racers and they will probably just run with the 1/8 Nitro Monster trucks. OK enough said these are just some things I have done and though you might like to try a few of the items. -Just try and get the weight down - If your in Texas drop by Eagle RC Raceway to race your REVO. eaglercraceway.com Track is under some repair right now but should get going next month. If you get a chance drop by.
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---------- Post added at 12:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:15 AM ----------
Looks like you got a great start. Might want to look at obtaining the Xtreame Carbon fiber battery holder. and get a RPM receiver box small and drop that excess weight, and also the carbon fiber throttle servo holder works great and removes a lot of added weight. I like the Tenko throttle system best. Might go for an additional fuel filter and an a intercooler to cool the exhaust gasses before they go into the tank. There is a lot of debate on it but I think if you heat the fuel you will start to bleed off your intromethane before it reaches the carb. Like what has all ready been said - I would go with a different wing. I like the Proline wing for racing. You also should look at an RR Gen 3 slipper clutch with harden spur gear. with the Picco 21 you should probably go with the RR metal gears in the transmission - if nothing else go with the close ratio for racing. For body roll, run top holes at the back and bottom holes at the front adds a little more steering. Also on Steering you need to move the front A arms back so that you can get at least 6 spacers in for the top A arm, the increased caster is for better turning - up to a point. For springs I run the green in the front and gold in the back but it depends in the track as well. Shock oil I run 50wt in front and 55wt in the back. You need to scale it out with a small weight scale to see that your balanced out - you probably running 8.5 to 9 pounds just guessing. I would go with the integy wing mount on the back as well. I assume your running back brakes as well and vented brake disk on the front. I want you to look at how loose the wheels are. If you have allot of slack in the wheels you can build your own brass inserts over the axel. Are you running steel dog bones to the wheels. You can get rid of the stock hubs and go with the ofna hubs. ON the motor more opinions - I would pull that roto start it weighs too much and buy the racing back plate for it and use a bump start. Everyone will give you a hard time about bump start boxes but if you get the OFNA REVO box and cut out some of the material on top you can raise the start wheel to where it will work for you, by putting spacers under the electric motor and frame At our track we have a special REVO class for REVO trucks only but we are slowly loosing our REVO racers and they will probably just run with the 1/8 Nitro Monster trucks. OK enough said these are just some things I have done and though you might like to try a few of the items. -Just try and get the weight down - If your in Texas drop by Eagle RC Raceway to race your REVO. eaglercraceway.com Track is under some repair right now but should get going next month. If you get a chance drop by.
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---------- Post added at 12:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:23 AM ----------
Looks like you got a great start. Might want to look at obtaining the Xtreame Carbon fiber battery holder. and get a RPM receiver box small and drop that excess weight, and also the carbon fiber throttle servo holder works great and removes a lot of added weight. I like the Tenko throttle system best. Might go for an additional fuel filter and an a intercooler to cool the exhaust gasses before they go into the tank. There is a lot of debate on it but I think if you heat the fuel you will start to bleed off your intromethane before it reaches the carb. Like what has all ready been said - I would go with a different wing. I like the Proline wing for racing. You also should look at an RR Gen 3 slipper clutch with harden spur gear. with the Picco 21 you should probably go with the RR metal gears in the transmission - if nothing else go with the close ratio for racing. For body roll, run top holes at the back and bottom holes at the front adds a little more steering. Also on Steering you need to move the front A arms back so that you can get at least 6 spacers in for the top A arm, the increased caster is for better turning - up to a point. For springs I run the green in the front and gold in the back but it depends in the track as well. Shock oil I run 50wt in front and 55wt in the back. You need to scale it out with a small weight scale to see that your balanced out - you probably running 8.5 to 9 pounds just guessing. I would go with the integy wing mount on the back as well. I assume your running back brakes as well and vented brake disk on the front. I want you to look at how loose the wheels are. If you have allot of slack in the wheels you can build your own brass inserts over the axel. Are you running steel dog bones to the wheels. You can get rid of the stock hubs and go with the ofna hubs. ON the motor more opinions - I would pull that roto start it weighs too much and buy the racing back plate for it and use a bump start. Everyone will give you a hard time about bump start boxes but if you get the OFNA REVO box and cut out some of the material on top you can raise the start wheel to where it will work for you, by putting spacers under the electric motor and frame At our track we have a special REVO class for REVO trucks only but we are slowly loosing our REVO racers and they will probably just run with the 1/8 Nitro Monster trucks. OK enough said these are just some things I have done and though you might like to try a few of the items. -Just try and get the weight down - If your in Texas drop by Eagle RC Raceway to race your REVO. eaglercraceway.com Track is under some repair right now but should get going next month. If you get a chance drop by.
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---------- Post added at 12:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:24 AM ----------
Looks like you got a great start. Might want to look at obtaining the Xtreame Carbon fiber battery holder. and get a RPM receiver box small and drop that excess weight, and also the carbon fiber throttle servo holder works great and removes a lot of added weight. I like the Tenko throttle system best. Might go for an additional fuel filter and an a intercooler to cool the exhaust gasses before they go into the tank. There is a lot of debate on it but I think if you heat the fuel you will start to bleed off your intromethane before it reaches the carb. Like what has all ready been said - I would go with a different wing. I like the Proline wing for racing. You also should look at an RR Gen 3 slipper clutch with harden spur gear. with the Picco 21 you should probably go with the RR metal gears in the transmission - if nothing else go with the close ratio for racing. For body roll, run top holes at the back and bottom holes at the front adds a little more steering. Also on Steering you need to move the front A arms back so that you can get at least 6 spacers in for the top A arm, the increased caster is for better turning - up to a point. For springs I run the green in the front and gold in the back but it depends in the track as well. Shock oil I run 50wt in front and 55wt in the back. You need to scale it out with a small weight scale to see that your balanced out - you probably running 8.5 to 9 pounds just guessing. I would go with the integy wing mount on the back as well. I assume your running back brakes as well and vented brake disk on the front. I want you to look at how loose the wheels are. If you have allot of slack in the wheels you can build your own brass inserts over the axel. Are you running steel dog bones to the wheels. You can get rid of the stock hubs and go with the ofna hubs. ON the motor more opinions - I would pull that roto start it weighs too much and buy the racing back plate for it and use a bump start. Everyone will give you a hard time about bump start boxes but if you get the OFNA REVO box and cut out some of the material on top you can raise the start wheel to where it will work for you, by putting spacers under the electric motor and frame At our track we have a special REVO class for REVO trucks only but we are slowly loosing our REVO racers and they will probably just run with the 1/8 Nitro Monster trucks. OK enough said these are just some things I have done and though you might like to try a few of the items. -Just try and get the weight down - If your in Texas drop by Eagle RC Raceway to race your REVO. eaglercraceway.com Track is under some repair right now but should get going next month. If you get a chance drop by.
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---------- Post added at 12:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:25 AM ----------
I guess it liked what I said- not sure how come it posted it 4 times. Maybe the webmaster will fix it. Sorry about that.
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