Am I track ready?

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chaos2767

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I have been building this Revo for about 3 months to be a track worthy rig and wanted to get your opinion on what I may be missing. Here is a list of my mods so far, give me some advise guys! Other than wheels, I think I'm pretty close.

1. Picco Max .21
2. Vantage Racing Carbon Fiber Chassis
3. Vantage Racing aluminum undercarriage
4. Vantage Racing Steel driveshafts front and rear
5. Ofna rotostart backplate
6. Aluminum front and rear bulk heads
7. Aluminum Rockers
8. Aluminum pushrods
9. RPM True tracks system
10. RRP Steel clutchbell and spur
11. RRP FOC
12. RRP trans gears
13. Spektrum S6040 Throttle servo
14. HiTec HS5645 Steering servo
15. Aluminum servo protectors
16. 40 mm aluminum flywheel
17. resonator pipe
18. Sway Bar kit (installing tonight)
 

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Really nice rig you got there man! Excellent choice on the power plant to!:D
 
Will the Losi 8 wheels directly bolt onto the Revo?
 
As long as you have 17mm hubs you should be good to go
I would consider upgrading the air filter , that stocker will clog up quick on a dusty track , either the trx 2 stage or grab a motorsaver and enjoy
 
You should also consider adding a rear wing for jumping stability, and additional crash protection for your cooling head and truck body. :mustache:
 
I personally would use the stock chassis over the Vantage C/F version. I've actually seen the Vantage break in a normal racing situation.
 
Pretty nice man! ...I agree with the guys about the wing and airfilter,....I would look for a better pipe like a ths or even a ercm,...only thing is the true track, you may find that you want a bit more toe adjustment...nice build chaos
 
The true tracks have been great so far and solid! I will look at some pipes for sure and a wing!
 
Get the newer air filter. 2 stage. You will not regret it.
 
I have a 2 stage filter but the boot is too big and hits the spur!. I had to use the stock and slightly shave the edge to clear the bolts from the steel spur. This motor leaves VERY little room for adjustment.
 
Sounds like you are good to go. Down the road though you may want to think about upgrading the steering servo to something with a bit more torque and speed. The HS5645 is up to task... but I think down the road you will need a beefier servo. I have not witnessed it personally but I have also heard the vantage chassis for the revo to be rather weak.
 
The chassis has been solid so far, it has taken some pretty big jumps and had its share of cart wheels, seems to be doin good for me!
 
I had the same problem with air filters until I changed to the motor saver , it has a longer neck that clears the spur gear with ease and it works way better than the trx one imho
 
Looks like you got a great start. Might want to look at obtaining the Xtreame Carbon fiber battery holder. and get a RPM receiver box small and drop that excess weight, and also the carbon fiber throttle servo holder works great and removes a lot of added weight. I like the Tenko throttle system best. Might go for an additional fuel filter and an a intercooler to cool the exhaust gasses before they go into the tank. There is a lot of debate on it but I think if you heat the fuel you will start to bleed off your intromethane before it reaches the carb. Like what has all ready been said - I would go with a different wing. I like the Proline wing for racing. You also should look at an RR Gen 3 slipper clutch with harden spur gear. with the Picco 21 you should probably go with the RR metal gears in the transmission - if nothing else go with the close ratio for racing. For body roll, run top holes at the back and bottom holes at the front adds a little more steering. Also on Steering you need to move the front A arms back so that you can get at least 6 spacers in for the top A arm, the increased caster is for better turning - up to a point. For springs I run the green in the front and gold in the back but it depends in the track as well. Shock oil I run 50wt in front and 55wt in the back. You need to scale it out with a small weight scale to see that your balanced out - you probably running 8.5 to 9 pounds just guessing. I would go with the integy wing mount on the back as well. I assume your running back brakes as well and vented brake disk on the front. I want you to look at how loose the wheels are. If you have allot of slack in the wheels you can build your own brass inserts over the axel. Are you running steel dog bones to the wheels. You can get rid of the stock hubs and go with the ofna hubs. ON the motor more opinions - I would pull that roto start it weighs too much and buy the racing back plate for it and use a bump start. Everyone will give you a hard time about bump start boxes but if you get the OFNA REVO box and cut out some of the material on top you can raise the start wheel to where it will work for you, by putting spacers under the electric motor and frame At our track we have a special REVO class for REVO trucks only but we are slowly loosing our REVO racers and they will probably just run with the 1/8 Nitro Monster trucks. OK enough said these are just some things I have done and though you might like to try a few of the items. -Just try and get the weight down - If your in Texas drop by Eagle RC Raceway to race your REVO. eaglercraceway.com Track is under some repair right now but should get going next month. If you get a chance drop by.

Hotstock

---------- Post added at 12:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:15 AM ----------

Looks like you got a great start. Might want to look at obtaining the Xtreame Carbon fiber battery holder. and get a RPM receiver box small and drop that excess weight, and also the carbon fiber throttle servo holder works great and removes a lot of added weight. I like the Tenko throttle system best. Might go for an additional fuel filter and an a intercooler to cool the exhaust gasses before they go into the tank. There is a lot of debate on it but I think if you heat the fuel you will start to bleed off your intromethane before it reaches the carb. Like what has all ready been said - I would go with a different wing. I like the Proline wing for racing. You also should look at an RR Gen 3 slipper clutch with harden spur gear. with the Picco 21 you should probably go with the RR metal gears in the transmission - if nothing else go with the close ratio for racing. For body roll, run top holes at the back and bottom holes at the front adds a little more steering. Also on Steering you need to move the front A arms back so that you can get at least 6 spacers in for the top A arm, the increased caster is for better turning - up to a point. For springs I run the green in the front and gold in the back but it depends in the track as well. Shock oil I run 50wt in front and 55wt in the back. You need to scale it out with a small weight scale to see that your balanced out - you probably running 8.5 to 9 pounds just guessing. I would go with the integy wing mount on the back as well. I assume your running back brakes as well and vented brake disk on the front. I want you to look at how loose the wheels are. If you have allot of slack in the wheels you can build your own brass inserts over the axel. Are you running steel dog bones to the wheels. You can get rid of the stock hubs and go with the ofna hubs. ON the motor more opinions - I would pull that roto start it weighs too much and buy the racing back plate for it and use a bump start. Everyone will give you a hard time about bump start boxes but if you get the OFNA REVO box and cut out some of the material on top you can raise the start wheel to where it will work for you, by putting spacers under the electric motor and frame At our track we have a special REVO class for REVO trucks only but we are slowly loosing our REVO racers and they will probably just run with the 1/8 Nitro Monster trucks. OK enough said these are just some things I have done and though you might like to try a few of the items. -Just try and get the weight down - If your in Texas drop by Eagle RC Raceway to race your REVO. eaglercraceway.com Track is under some repair right now but should get going next month. If you get a chance drop by.

Hotstock

---------- Post added at 12:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:23 AM ----------

Looks like you got a great start. Might want to look at obtaining the Xtreame Carbon fiber battery holder. and get a RPM receiver box small and drop that excess weight, and also the carbon fiber throttle servo holder works great and removes a lot of added weight. I like the Tenko throttle system best. Might go for an additional fuel filter and an a intercooler to cool the exhaust gasses before they go into the tank. There is a lot of debate on it but I think if you heat the fuel you will start to bleed off your intromethane before it reaches the carb. Like what has all ready been said - I would go with a different wing. I like the Proline wing for racing. You also should look at an RR Gen 3 slipper clutch with harden spur gear. with the Picco 21 you should probably go with the RR metal gears in the transmission - if nothing else go with the close ratio for racing. For body roll, run top holes at the back and bottom holes at the front adds a little more steering. Also on Steering you need to move the front A arms back so that you can get at least 6 spacers in for the top A arm, the increased caster is for better turning - up to a point. For springs I run the green in the front and gold in the back but it depends in the track as well. Shock oil I run 50wt in front and 55wt in the back. You need to scale it out with a small weight scale to see that your balanced out - you probably running 8.5 to 9 pounds just guessing. I would go with the integy wing mount on the back as well. I assume your running back brakes as well and vented brake disk on the front. I want you to look at how loose the wheels are. If you have allot of slack in the wheels you can build your own brass inserts over the axel. Are you running steel dog bones to the wheels. You can get rid of the stock hubs and go with the ofna hubs. ON the motor more opinions - I would pull that roto start it weighs too much and buy the racing back plate for it and use a bump start. Everyone will give you a hard time about bump start boxes but if you get the OFNA REVO box and cut out some of the material on top you can raise the start wheel to where it will work for you, by putting spacers under the electric motor and frame At our track we have a special REVO class for REVO trucks only but we are slowly loosing our REVO racers and they will probably just run with the 1/8 Nitro Monster trucks. OK enough said these are just some things I have done and though you might like to try a few of the items. -Just try and get the weight down - If your in Texas drop by Eagle RC Raceway to race your REVO. eaglercraceway.com Track is under some repair right now but should get going next month. If you get a chance drop by.

Hotstock

---------- Post added at 12:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:24 AM ----------

Looks like you got a great start. Might want to look at obtaining the Xtreame Carbon fiber battery holder. and get a RPM receiver box small and drop that excess weight, and also the carbon fiber throttle servo holder works great and removes a lot of added weight. I like the Tenko throttle system best. Might go for an additional fuel filter and an a intercooler to cool the exhaust gasses before they go into the tank. There is a lot of debate on it but I think if you heat the fuel you will start to bleed off your intromethane before it reaches the carb. Like what has all ready been said - I would go with a different wing. I like the Proline wing for racing. You also should look at an RR Gen 3 slipper clutch with harden spur gear. with the Picco 21 you should probably go with the RR metal gears in the transmission - if nothing else go with the close ratio for racing. For body roll, run top holes at the back and bottom holes at the front adds a little more steering. Also on Steering you need to move the front A arms back so that you can get at least 6 spacers in for the top A arm, the increased caster is for better turning - up to a point. For springs I run the green in the front and gold in the back but it depends in the track as well. Shock oil I run 50wt in front and 55wt in the back. You need to scale it out with a small weight scale to see that your balanced out - you probably running 8.5 to 9 pounds just guessing. I would go with the integy wing mount on the back as well. I assume your running back brakes as well and vented brake disk on the front. I want you to look at how loose the wheels are. If you have allot of slack in the wheels you can build your own brass inserts over the axel. Are you running steel dog bones to the wheels. You can get rid of the stock hubs and go with the ofna hubs. ON the motor more opinions - I would pull that roto start it weighs too much and buy the racing back plate for it and use a bump start. Everyone will give you a hard time about bump start boxes but if you get the OFNA REVO box and cut out some of the material on top you can raise the start wheel to where it will work for you, by putting spacers under the electric motor and frame At our track we have a special REVO class for REVO trucks only but we are slowly loosing our REVO racers and they will probably just run with the 1/8 Nitro Monster trucks. OK enough said these are just some things I have done and though you might like to try a few of the items. -Just try and get the weight down - If your in Texas drop by Eagle RC Raceway to race your REVO. eaglercraceway.com Track is under some repair right now but should get going next month. If you get a chance drop by.

Hotstock

---------- Post added at 12:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:25 AM ----------

I guess it liked what I said- not sure how come it posted it 4 times. Maybe the webmaster will fix it. Sorry about that.
Hotstock
 
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