Aluminum parts... Are they nessesarily "better" than the plastic parts, ie. 'stronger', or is it jsut to dress up the T-maxx. Aluminum is rather soft, so I'm worried about bending/breaking parts like a-arms faster than ol' plastic parts...
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Aluminum Parts....
- Thread starter jimmy2k
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Personally I think aluminum parts are ok for certain spots. The only problem with it is once its bent the odds of getting it back into shape is slim. Depending on what you are looking for check out RPM for T-Maxx hopups.
El Pirata
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Aluminum parts are stronger to a point than plastic parts however alum parts are less forgiving than plastic parts. Some parts you never want to change from plastic to alum just for the simple fact that the plastic will break before the alum and will be easily and cheaply replaced than it would to replace the alum.
One great example comes to mind, A-Arms, putting RPM plastic A-Arms onto your t-maxx and alum bulkheads is not a bad setup. The plastic a-arms should break before the alum bulkheads and at $20 easy on the pocket to replace as well as not to difficult to install. Hope this answers your question enough.
One great example comes to mind, A-Arms, putting RPM plastic A-Arms onto your t-maxx and alum bulkheads is not a bad setup. The plastic a-arms should break before the alum bulkheads and at $20 easy on the pocket to replace as well as not to difficult to install. Hope this answers your question enough.
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Yea thats true. A guy at the hobby shop stated that the plastic parts are there for a reason, to fracture under stress. If that part is replaced that will not break...the part next to it will....
I'd just really like to create a relativly strong truck. I bought a house in a new neighborhood. What does this mean..? My entire block is nothing by rock,dirt, and piles of rock, dirt. These trucks come and dig like these 8ft trenches in the ground leaving mounds of dirt on the side....my backyard is practicly a race track in of itself and I would like somethign to handle the abuse...
So RPM are pretty good plastic a-arms?
What else should i get?
I'd just really like to create a relativly strong truck. I bought a house in a new neighborhood. What does this mean..? My entire block is nothing by rock,dirt, and piles of rock, dirt. These trucks come and dig like these 8ft trenches in the ground leaving mounds of dirt on the side....my backyard is practicly a race track in of itself and I would like somethign to handle the abuse...
So RPM are pretty good plastic a-arms?
What else should i get?
Here's a rule of thumb I went by. Go plastic, Al, Plastic, Al. That way something has to give and it will be most likely the plastic.
Example: Al bumper, plastic bumper mount, Al bulkhead. In a crash the bumper mount would go before the bulkhead or bumper.
As for the RPM arms they are an awesome deal. If you break one the arms you can send them back to RPM and they'll send you a new one. How can you beat that?
Example: Al bumper, plastic bumper mount, Al bulkhead. In a crash the bumper mount would go before the bulkhead or bumper.
As for the RPM arms they are an awesome deal. If you break one the arms you can send them back to RPM and they'll send you a new one. How can you beat that?
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aluminum will also add a considerable amount of weight. For A arms I would recommend rpm, they are very strong and they are guaranteed forever, if you break one just send it back to them and they will replace it free. If you bend an aluminum a arm you most likely will never get it straight again.
As Kal mentioned aluminum bumpers with the stock plastic mounts on aluminum bulks is nice because the mount will be the weak link in a crash and they cost about $5 to replace, if it was all aluminum you could have a much bigger problem, and much greater expense.
Aluminum is good for some applications and bad for others.
As Kal mentioned aluminum bumpers with the stock plastic mounts on aluminum bulks is nice because the mount will be the weak link in a crash and they cost about $5 to replace, if it was all aluminum you could have a much bigger problem, and much greater expense.
Aluminum is good for some applications and bad for others.
SuperMaxx97
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so what is aluminum good for. for show it is pretty kool. but, i have heard many people say that it is really good for raceing and just messing around. now if it was for jumping off of 30 foot cliffs and stuff i could see where plastic would be way better than than aluminum.
bryan
bryan
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Super...
It is all in how much you think your truck can take. If you think you are going to be beating the hell out of it on a regular basis, and do not want to keep spending money on replacing plastic, then there are places on the truck ideally suited for an upgrade to a metal part.
Chassis braces, bulkheads, bulkhead braces, and bumpers are all good things to upgrade to a metal component. I say metal, because some can afford to lay out the dough for titanium (which is way better than aluminum). You want to keep the bumper brakets plastic for the reasons mentioned above.
Suspension is another area that can afford some upgrades. A nice set of all metal shocks is a great upgrade. There are a number of quality shocks out there. You can use the search function of this site to read through several discussions about them. Titanium turnbuckles are also another great hop-up. If you get them, get a beefier rod end. You can go with either RPM (plastic) shock towers or upgrade to a good aluminum set. The plastic will give a little on the big air, but the aluminum gives a rock solid base for the shocks to work from.
Areas that are a wash when it comes to metal.
Skid plates. Do not get aluminum; if you must get metal, go straight to titanium. The aluminum skids will give you more fits for having to spend down time reshaping them than they are worth (the exception being the center skid...aluminum, titanium, plastic...all work well for the center skid). I run the stock plastic skid plates. They are flexible and inexpensive to replace if they get broken.
A-arms. Aluminum a-arms are just begging to be replaced as expensively as possible. The problem with aluminum a-arms is that they do not reshape so easily, and they are expensive to replace. You are better off sticking with a quality plastic set (RPM). You could upgrade the upper a-arms to metal (as I did), but that is a matter of preference. The ones that you need to watch are those closest to the ground (and therefore more prone to contact with objects on the ground).
Why does everyone push the RPM button when it comes to plastic parts? Simple, they are near indestructible. If you manage to break one, then send it back to RPM and they replace it no questions asked.
Anyway, I think I have used up my dime on this one...
It is all in how much you think your truck can take. If you think you are going to be beating the hell out of it on a regular basis, and do not want to keep spending money on replacing plastic, then there are places on the truck ideally suited for an upgrade to a metal part.
Chassis braces, bulkheads, bulkhead braces, and bumpers are all good things to upgrade to a metal component. I say metal, because some can afford to lay out the dough for titanium (which is way better than aluminum). You want to keep the bumper brakets plastic for the reasons mentioned above.
Suspension is another area that can afford some upgrades. A nice set of all metal shocks is a great upgrade. There are a number of quality shocks out there. You can use the search function of this site to read through several discussions about them. Titanium turnbuckles are also another great hop-up. If you get them, get a beefier rod end. You can go with either RPM (plastic) shock towers or upgrade to a good aluminum set. The plastic will give a little on the big air, but the aluminum gives a rock solid base for the shocks to work from.
Areas that are a wash when it comes to metal.
Skid plates. Do not get aluminum; if you must get metal, go straight to titanium. The aluminum skids will give you more fits for having to spend down time reshaping them than they are worth (the exception being the center skid...aluminum, titanium, plastic...all work well for the center skid). I run the stock plastic skid plates. They are flexible and inexpensive to replace if they get broken.
A-arms. Aluminum a-arms are just begging to be replaced as expensively as possible. The problem with aluminum a-arms is that they do not reshape so easily, and they are expensive to replace. You are better off sticking with a quality plastic set (RPM). You could upgrade the upper a-arms to metal (as I did), but that is a matter of preference. The ones that you need to watch are those closest to the ground (and therefore more prone to contact with objects on the ground).
Why does everyone push the RPM button when it comes to plastic parts? Simple, they are near indestructible. If you manage to break one, then send it back to RPM and they replace it no questions asked.
Anyway, I think I have used up my dime on this one...
wdavidhicks
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All these guys make excellent points. I busted a stock upper front arm and bent a shock several months ago. If I'd have had these opinions sooner I would probably have bought the RPM arms instead of the anodized aluminum. The aluminums are still holding up well and they're pretty showy but the day I get too brave, fast or stupid and break one I'll get the RPMS. My aluminum rear arms aren't pretty anymore only because they're extremely pitted from being impacted by stuff thrown at them by the tires.
DarthRacer
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My experience is like most of the posts here. Al is only good in certain places.
My only Al part are the chassis braces because that is where a lot of strength is needed. Plastic will give where Al will bend.
I tell you what. The stock bulkheads are stronger than you think in combination with RPM arms, RPM bulkhead braces, and Titanium hinge pins. I've cartwheeled my Maxx numerous times and have not proken a part yet. It is very durable. I think Al is over-rated in most cases. Plus, I have a weight advantage. My Maxx is only ounces heavier than a 2.5 Maxx where an all Al setup can be pounds heavier.
My only Al part are the chassis braces because that is where a lot of strength is needed. Plastic will give where Al will bend.
I tell you what. The stock bulkheads are stronger than you think in combination with RPM arms, RPM bulkhead braces, and Titanium hinge pins. I've cartwheeled my Maxx numerous times and have not proken a part yet. It is very durable. I think Al is over-rated in most cases. Plus, I have a weight advantage. My Maxx is only ounces heavier than a 2.5 Maxx where an all Al setup can be pounds heavier.
DarthRacer
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So true. The cold is so harsh on plastic.
Are there any Ti bulkheads out? I guess Hardcore would make them if so.
SuperMaxx97
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i dont really have any where around my place that i am really able to do anything tho. almost every where around is pavement so pretty much the only way i can break something on my truck is either rolling it or hitting something. right now i do have aluminum bumpers and chassis braces and they work good. but i am still leaning towards the aluminum as i want my truck to be a little bit more of a show type of truck and not so much bash and trashing it. but i would still like to race it.
bryan
bryan
Well in a sea of plastic I am one of a few Aluminum/metal trucks out here.
First off not all aluminum parts are made equal. As you have been reading in my other posts I run Unlimited Engineering suspension and diffs.
A buddy of mine who has a full UE aluminum/titanium truck is who I seem to copy. Mostly because I've seen his truck smack telephone poles, walls, and other trucks and the thing has only bent 1 lower A' arm slightly. I did bend it back for him and EZ outed the broken off pillow ball studs from 2 A' arms for him.
If it had been a plastic truck like mine was, the whole truck would have been totalled.
If you're going to stick with the stock 2.5's and less, then don't even bother going aluminum/Ti. My truck now weighs in over 10lbs easy (not got it on a scale yet). But I also run a Picco .26. So weight is not an issue. Its sooooo fast I can pull up to a 2.5 who is running at full throttle and nail it pulling away with a wheelie......That fun was cut short by the "toy" diffs in the truck just coming apart. The rear case warped and shered the screws off the diff housing.
As parts broke I wanted a bullit proof part to replace it. So I went with Supermaxx parts from Unlimited.
When buying aluminum look for 7000 series. The 6000 series is just too soft for racing and can flex as bad as plastic. One can theorize all they want about a Supermaxx but until you see one run.......Yes my truck drives and handles just like a buggy. I can stay on the power through the turns. It turns and stops on a dime. I clear big jump with a small blurp of the throttle.
I will say this, Aluminum is more expensive to replace. And if the prices bother you, then you're better off staying plastic.
First off not all aluminum parts are made equal. As you have been reading in my other posts I run Unlimited Engineering suspension and diffs.
A buddy of mine who has a full UE aluminum/titanium truck is who I seem to copy. Mostly because I've seen his truck smack telephone poles, walls, and other trucks and the thing has only bent 1 lower A' arm slightly. I did bend it back for him and EZ outed the broken off pillow ball studs from 2 A' arms for him.
If it had been a plastic truck like mine was, the whole truck would have been totalled.
If you're going to stick with the stock 2.5's and less, then don't even bother going aluminum/Ti. My truck now weighs in over 10lbs easy (not got it on a scale yet). But I also run a Picco .26. So weight is not an issue. Its sooooo fast I can pull up to a 2.5 who is running at full throttle and nail it pulling away with a wheelie......That fun was cut short by the "toy" diffs in the truck just coming apart. The rear case warped and shered the screws off the diff housing.
As parts broke I wanted a bullit proof part to replace it. So I went with Supermaxx parts from Unlimited.
When buying aluminum look for 7000 series. The 6000 series is just too soft for racing and can flex as bad as plastic. One can theorize all they want about a Supermaxx but until you see one run.......Yes my truck drives and handles just like a buggy. I can stay on the power through the turns. It turns and stops on a dime. I clear big jump with a small blurp of the throttle.
I will say this, Aluminum is more expensive to replace. And if the prices bother you, then you're better off staying plastic.
SuperMaxx97
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the cost really isnt too big of a concerne. no i am not a millionair so i can't just go out and buy evertything that i want but i can get the money. i saw on the web sight that u put up the suspension kit that i am really seriously looking at buying. not the Racers X kit but the other one. currently i run a XTM 24.7 motor in my truck. mine will do the same thing that urs will. it wastes the 2.5
bryan
bryan
Yeah, then I'd say go with UE parts. You have more than enough motor to handle the weight. Before ording my Diffs, we put my motor in my friend steves truck to see the difference and WOW....
Those UE/Ofna Diff put the power to the ground! All of a sudden I could turn, accelorate, jump, and all out nail it and all it would do is rip out of the hole.
I'm not filthy rich either, and I've still got parts on my wish list.....like Titanium skids, and the RPM servo saver and who knows what other cool stuff is soon to come out.
Those UE/Ofna Diff put the power to the ground! All of a sudden I could turn, accelorate, jump, and all out nail it and all it would do is rip out of the hole.
I'm not filthy rich either, and I've still got parts on my wish list.....like Titanium skids, and the RPM servo saver and who knows what other cool stuff is soon to come out.
SuperMaxx97
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yes i no. so as u can tell i am in the process of building a supermaxx. so how do those differentials work? i have heard that they work good and i am thinking of getting them too. cause man this 24.7 motor it sure doing some damage on my stock ones.
bryan
bryan
Well I finally got all the parts in yesterday and put them together. They lay down the power :OMG: :w00t:
I'm running a 22bell and 65 double disk slipper tightened all the way down and backed off 1/16th of a turn.
I'll be racing this weekend. I'm trying something a little different. Everyone else runs 10,000 wt in the front and 7,000 in the rear. I'm just running the 10,000 in the rear and 7,000 in the front to give more steering.
I might even go up to a 23 bell.
I'm running a 22bell and 65 double disk slipper tightened all the way down and backed off 1/16th of a turn.
I'll be racing this weekend. I'm trying something a little different. Everyone else runs 10,000 wt in the front and 7,000 in the rear. I'm just running the 10,000 in the rear and 7,000 in the front to give more steering.
I might even go up to a 23 bell.
El Pirata
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10,000 in the front shocks? Diff? What? Please elaborate.
10k in the rear? Not 1k? Let me know how it works out.
I would run the 10,000 in the center and 3,000 in the front. Put the 7,000 in the rear and it will slip less. Humboldt recommended 3k front, 7-10k middle and 1k rear and it works very well. I run it on the track accross the street and it steers and unloads just fine. Very tight track too!
Keep us posted! I'm always willing to try something different.
I would run the 10,000 in the center and 3,000 in the front. Put the 7,000 in the rear and it will slip less. Humboldt recommended 3k front, 7-10k middle and 1k rear and it works very well. I run it on the track accross the street and it steers and unloads just fine. Very tight track too!
Keep us posted! I'm always willing to try something different.