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[m00nst0ne69]

Hello folks,

I had been having issues keeping my Revo running all summer. Come to find out I was using the wrong plug(Thanks for the clue JetMech). I since went to a MC59 and I can now finish a tank of fuel.

I was so happy about having'er running again I went out and did some bashing and promptly blew the tranny trying to put it in reverse.

I got the center dif/FOC kit and the rear braking kit. After all was installed, I found that I installed the rear brakes to tight (Only after trying to run a few laps around the driveway). After after loosening the brake, things got better but I am still having a bogging issue. After warm up the truck will go great for a 100 yards then seem to get real rich. After leaning out, it runs great for 100 yards still then acts rich again. Any clues???

 

[thekonz]

Check to see if the high speed needle is in the same place. I found out in my Savage that the needle some how lossens itself up. I would screw it down about 3 turns then screw it back out to where it should be and it would be fine. I've had that problem every once in a while tho.

 

[jetmechG550]

Your shift points will be quite different with a center dif, also what fluid did you put in the dif

 

[m00nst0ne69]

Check to see if the high speed needle is in the same place. I found out in my Savage that the needle some how lossens itself up. I would screw it down about 3 turns then screw it back out to where it should be and it would be fine. I've had that problem every once in a while tho.

The needle hasn't moved.

Your shift points will be quite different with a center dif, also what fluid did you put in the dif

I cleaned out the 100K and put in 300K. As for the shift points, the first few yards are great then everything gets sluggish. It acts like a wheel nut is loose (Check that by the way they aren't)

 

[jetmechG550]

Just a thought, you may want to make sure you have the tranny put back together right. Also when you drive, go at about 3/4 throttle and listen for it to shift (sometimes it's easier to hear at lower throttle settings) also try slowing down coming towards you and see if you can hear it gear back down. It's harder to hear the shift with the center dif. One other thing is to check youe engine temps, if the mill is running cold it will seem flat and not shift either.

 

[racing revo #21]

It also might be that the slipper is not tight tight enough.
I had a similar prob, then tightened it and its just fine now.

 

[jetmechG550]

If the slipper wasn't tight enough, it would hardly move.

 

[erix920]

Also if you tighten the slipper too much the transmission will just break again, exactly what I did, I loosened and not a problem since, well I blew my engine so I guess that's bad.

 

[m00nst0ne69]

I think I narrowed it down to the clutch shoes and bell. Last night I checked all the shafts for breakage then I checked into the slipper.

When I hit the throttle sometimes the truck takes off like a champ sometimes it just sits there and spins. So I watched it more closely and saw that sometimes when the motor RPM's went up the clutch bell wouldn't turn the spur and sometimes (when it took off good) it would. I also noticed that sometimes (even when it took off good) when I landed a jump or wheelie that it would start to slip then It just bogged down.

So, seems that the solution may just be a new clucth and some clutch bell prep?

 

[TalonOne]

I have had similiar trouble with clutches and especially clutch springs.
I am switching to the m2cracing clutches as the design makes more sense to me. Mine are on order...I will let you know when they in and tested.

You can check them out here. https://www.m2cracing.com/


TalonOne

 

[m00nst0ne69]

I have had similiar trouble with clutches and especially clutch springs.
I am switching to the m2cracing clutches as the design makes more sense to me. Mine are on order...I will let you know when they in and tested.

You can check them out here. https://www.m2cracing.com/


TalonOne

Thanks for the tip.

Which came first? After taking the clutch bell off I found that the front clutch bell bearing was blown out and it was brand new. I wonder which happened first, the bearing blew up and aided the slipping or the slipping heated the bearing up until it blew up? Oh well almost fixed now...

 

[vbgagnon]

The clutch bearings have to be blown out. YOu have to blow the grease out of them before you put them into your truck. OTherwise the grease will get on the clutch shoes and slip causing the early death of your clutchbell bearings.

Keep the stock clutch, its the easies to care for and its a very prooven design.

 

[m00nst0ne69]

I am using sealed bearings. You are saying blow out the grease from those? Isn't the amount of grease in them and their position in the bell negligible?

 

[vbgagnon]

Yes blow out the grease. I can assure you you will get longer life out of them if you blow them out first.

 

[jetmechG550]

I pop the shields out and use a citrus based cleaner for skate bearings. Dry them up and use a high speed lube and put the shields back in.

 

[m00nst0ne69]

OK then. That just sounds wierd.

 

[TalonOne]

Makes sense

Yes blow out the grease. I can assure you you will get longer life out of them if you blow them out first.

Hmm never heard that before....makes sense ....I will have to try that and compare it to the m2c set up when it arrives...of course I would blow out the bearings for both and then compare the performance of the springs really.


TalonOut