Alexander's wraith

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Alexander_0_1

"Roads, where we're going we don't need roads"
Messages
2,301
Reaction score
72
Location
Frog Lake A.B Canada
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Hey guys, this is my wraith, just thought I'd share a photo or two. I'd like to say it's done, but it's more like a work in progress.

image.jpg image.jpg
 
All scalers are works in progress... Looks good so far.
 
Nice Wraith, how do you like the IFS?
 
I like fine for what I've done with it so far, which is not very much. I've been to my local gymnasium, and the basement of a friends house, both of which were mostly flat areas. It does turn like an exo terra with 300m lockers now, so you can imagine the steering is nowhere near as tight as a wraith, but I'm sure exo owners have noticed that and exo doesn't get around turns with its steering prowess alone, there is quite a lot going on with the front-rear suspension adjustments, as well as toe, camber, that help and exo be as nimble as they are....I can only imagine how hard a standard exo terra is on its tires with the way the stock suspension set up is.

Since the kit doesn't require solid axles I was able to completely grind off the rear right, as well as the left front upper link mounts on the skid plate, this allowed me to use a thicker servo horn, and a pro4hd 3000kv.

It's actually an IFRS.
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Oh, I didn't notice that. So, is it a Wraith chassis or the EXO chassis? I've thought hard about doing a Wrexo with mine numerous times since it sees more basher duty than crawler duty. Looks great!
 
It's both! The way it worked out is you bolt the wraith cage/skid plate to the plate that holds the differentials in place, theres a front upper plate (front diff) for steering bell crank, rear upper plate (rear diff) for battery (mine holds the esc), and mid upper for the servo. All inner upper plates bolt to the wraith cage in various locations.

The kit doesn't come with instructions, but theres only so many parts, so it's not terrebly tough to build. I didn't use any of the fasteners supplied with the kit, I used lockedup rc scale hardware everywhere I could, and stock black axial fasteners everywhere else.


P.S most of that stuff in the background is from work, things like Q.C drawings, and other things my consultants had me sign before I could start work everyday.
 
Hey, guys if I want to put an on/off switch on something where does it go on the negative, or positive......or does it matter? How much power can a standard rc switch take before it heats up and starts to smoke?
 
The polarity doesn't matter to a switch. As far as the current goes, switches are rated and quite a few have their ratings printed or embossed on them.
 
Thanks, there isn't anything on this particular switch, but I'll give it a go.
 
How is the switch used? Is it inline with the battery or mounted to the ESC?
 
It was used in someone's makeshift mess of a L.E.D wiring job that I pulled off a wraith cage with a custom work (bent with lighter heat) sporting a honcho lid, seriously it looked like a funnel spider web w/multiple switches for various lights, or an extremely all over the place homemade 1/10 wiring harness.
I traded an old servo for the cage, so I could strip off anything of any use.

I'm just hoping the switch doesn't melt if I run it to a 3s lipo,, it's just so I can turn both of my MORE lights on at the same time. Once I finally have enough for the transmitter of my choosing, and a few more receivers, I'll be able to omit this, and any other switches I might use, for now I'm using an RTR losi combo I plucked off of fleabay.
 
Without knowing more, I'd limit it to no more than 20 LEDs. That should keep the current low enough to prevent damage. I'd also set up the lights as you intend to run it outside of the rig and run them a while and check the temp of the switch. If it's hot to the touch, I'd find a bit higher current rated switch (12v DC 2 amp, maybe).
 
So, did some testing with this small slide switch....which I think is from an esc, and it did it's job fine, but I'll use it sparingly until I get a switch that I can trust. It was slightly warmer than before I sent power through it. What made me cut the test short was that my 5" light bar was pushing 186F, and the Qs were about 10F lower than that when I took my first reading.
 
Thanks, those are voodoo U4s, gold compound, w/ crawler innovations deuces wild closed cell foams.
 
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I know this is a really bad pic, but this is how my MORE/VP 5" light bar and MORE/VPQ series look like all lit up. While they are both lit up they have a 1700 lumen output....oh before I forget they get really hot, I've burnt my fingers twice....so far.
 
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Hey guys, just check the mail, and it finally showed up...even though I had intended it for my scx10, I think I'll try it out on my wraith, since the scx10 is a long way off from being anything but upgrade parts.....as soon as I find a pinion for it, might have to rummage around the merv parts box, hopefully I'll get lucky.
 
Hey Alexander was this an actual kit that allowed you to combine the EXO with a wraith could you please point me in the right direction.
 
Hey Alexander was this an actual kit that allowed you to combine the EXO with a wraith could you please point me in the right direction.

Sure bud, and yes it's an actual kit.

http://www.bluemonkeyrc.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=51_76

But I have to warn you, you lose the articulation of having solid axles, and 4 link suspension, but you gain ground clearance, and stability over rough terrain.....now it's sorta easier to go faster.
 
I see better now it basically makes a wraith more like an EXO
 
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