A Droop setting procedure

[rossb]

I was reading through the CompetitionX site and I found the following procedure to set droop. Has anyone tried this method?

 

[Candyman]

I'm not sure how much I understand in this, but if the basic idea is that droop limits the down travel of the suspension arm, I don't see how this is considered the optimal setting. If you set your ride height then pick up the car, this method is basically looking for gapping around the spring. What if there's not? My understanding is that droop is a dynamic setting and is based on track conditions, configuration, tires etc. Droop for a rough outdoor track may be different than droop for a indoor carpet. Looking at this, it seems to oversimplify and go against that philosophy. It's like saying there's one optimal track bar setting on a stock car no matter what track you're on.

 

[Nitrobuzzard]

I may be totally off here but the way I always set my ride height was WITH the shock collar (or pre-loads). Now If I was doing it right and got my height set where I wanted it then tried this, wouldn't that throw it out of whack? Sounds like its pushing the shock shaft to its fullest extent to me. Which in turn will give you full amount of down travel on the shock and really discarding the "droop" setting, as to my understanding is what the droop is there for, to limit downtravel to keep the tires planted better...........

I always set my droop then got my ride height, only way I could get both where I wanted but, I'm just a parking lot racer that never really needed a "hooked-up" car........course, I probably did it all wrong anyways.........lol

just my

 

[RatzoRC]

Sounds like its pushing the shock shaft to its fullest extent to me.

The way I read it, is that it compresses the shock just up to where the shock is a hair shy of touching.
Droop is different for different tracks and conditions.
Ride height prevents the car from scraping the chassis on the ground. Droop helps in hard high speed turns that causes chassis roll and helps handling if set correctly.

I just fixed my post.
I confused myself... lol

 

[Nitrobuzzard]

Droop is different for different tracks and conditions.

I agree there, just changing brands of foams I had to re-adjust everything it seemed like....

 

[RatzoRC]

We used to adjust it after every run because the tires would wear down and change the height of the car.
I think I might be done with on road just because of all the BS with tweak, droop, caster, camber, toe, ride height, cutting tires, gearing, so on, and so on.
PIA!!

 

[Nitrobuzzard]

I am through with it for awhile just for those reasons...........its too easy to fire up the old stump jumpers and go play and not worry about it....LOL

Also, on my NTC3 I had different droop settings for the front compared to the rear..........guess this way might get it close but to get right I still think a set-up tool needs to be used...........

 

[rossb]

I may be totally off here but the way I always set my ride height was WITH the shock collar (or pre-loads). Now If I was doing it right and got my height set where I wanted it then tried this, wouldn't that throw it out of whack?

I was under the impression that changes in ride height (or tire height due to wear) always require changes in both droop and bump stops. I'm not sure how accurate this method is but I kind of understand the logic behind it. Maybe it will just give a decent starting point. When I built my car I set the droop to the default in the build instructions and I never changed it. I know that can’t be good.

 

[Revo Rancher]

Very interesting method. I question it for the same reasons as other posts. I might try it, though. On my on-road electric, the dang thing has so much power it is, by downforce, dragging the rear of the body work on full throttle acceleration to top end. I do not want to cut the body work as at slower speeds I want it to remain close to the road surface.

 

[rossb]

dragging the rear of the body work on full throttle acceleration to top end.

Thats a bump stop or body mount issue. You don't want the rear close to the road anyway because it creates drag. Most people cut out the rear.

 

[Revo Rancher]

Ross, the back is cut out as fully as legal. It is actually scraing the rear skirts behind the rear wheels. I guess I might have to put some spacers in. That, or find a rear wing that has less top end downforce.

 

[Diver6127]

I was looking at that proceedure and I guess it's good if you're in a bind but to get a true droop reading and adjustment, shocks and sway bars have to be removed. That way you can see the actual suspension travel.

The only way to get an accurate measurement is with the tools. Especially since it's also critical that adjustments be equal from left to right. Otherwise, the suspension will be a bit cockeyed ... especially in a fast sweeper or chicayne.

 

[CorradoPsi]

speaking of tools. Diver, would you be able to bring your stuff with you to the bash? i could sure use a good setup on my NTC3.

 

[Diver6127]

Will have everything with me if you want. Setup board, tweak station, tools, setup board ... and most importantly , a nice cold sixpack. I may bring my serpent just for kicks at the hilton parking lot ... lol, I'll make sure I close out the bill first.

 

[rossb]

I just tried this method for goofs. I got 3mm of droop on a 4.5mm front height and 4mm of droop on a 5mm rear height. I measured the droop by raising the car in the middle 1mm at a time with my ride height gauge while carefully checking for when the tires just lifted off the ground by shining a light under the car. I popped the shocks to double check the droop on all corners. I had to make some very minor adjustments to get all 4 tires as even as possible. I did not disconnect the sway bars even though I realize that would lead to an even more accurate setup.

Good thing I did this as I was running way too much droop and it was not even from side to side. I also adjustmented my bump stops to stop the car from bottoming out on the pavement.

 

[Diver6127]

I have those blocks that come with the HUDY gauges for droop. All I gotta do is take all the wheels off, un hook everything and start measuring and cranking.

Man, I can't even remember my dropp settings. I always change them according to the layout of the track and that days traction. Either way, I'm usually not that far off.