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A couple of tips for my new Savage!

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Renegade88

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I sold my ST and my T-Maxx for a good price and bought a Savage on Saturday:cheerful: . I am not sorry about the purchase. I also got a bigger airfilter and a couple of spare glow plugs. I ran it in idling for one tank then with the carb set very rich putting around to mid throttle for another 4 tanks. The fith tank I leaned her out abit. The Savage is much louder but sounds good with that BB21. I have noticed that you dont have to gun it like the Maxx to get it to a moderate running speed. II still think the Maxx is a great truck but the Savage is alot diffirent. Any tips for this truck?
 
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Check the 2 speed set screw that it's loctited down, reverse the upper shock bolt closest to the fuel tank so you don't puncture the tank on a hard butt landing, I think the 2 speed is set to high, so I adjusted counterclockwise 1/4 of a turn. Varying on the weather, the motor won't really put out until it's running anywhere from 245-275.
 
Done that and I siliconed my plates on my diffs. Hee HEee. I can't believe the handling of this truck
 
Is running four tanks through your Savage at mid-idle your idea or where'd you come up with that? Does it help the break in process? The manual is not clear on how long to run it at mid-idle after the first tank is through.

I am just learning about this truck, sorry for the dumb question.
 
You're right the manual is a bit hazy about the break in process. I have learn't to run a engine in like this through short and expensive experience with other nitro trucks I have owned. I found this to work very well. My Savage engine is still nice and tight after this process. This truck was expensive so I did not want to take chances. I dont know what the rest of the guys here think?
 
I would loctite your wheel nuts. Once they are loose, you'll round off your hubs in a heart beat. Get extra black and silver nuts while you're at it. If you loose one of those reverse ones, you won't spend half the day looking for that special nut. Adjust your slipper gear. Mine was loose from the box. I believe that's it. I can't think of anything else you would need to worry about.
 
I have to give a plug to www.savage-central.com that site is all about the savage. I don't know a whole lot, but I've heard upgrading from the stock dog bones to CDVs is a good hop-up.

Congrats on purchasing a great R/C.

I see a lot of new people posting in this thread. Welcome to RCNT! :cheers:

-Rob
 
i disagree on the CVds.. the HPI chrome bones for 13$ for 2 wheels, so 26$ for all 4, and 6-7$ each for the center drive shafts are 1/2 the cost and non maintenance of loosing pins..

I'm also a mod at central.. so to be honest u can hang out here.. i will not hold it against you.. i do keep a eye on the other forums and try to help where all i can..
 
Ya I heard those are really good, I also heard they you strip a lot of wheels on the Savage if the bolt isn't tight. So should In use Lots of Loctite?

Steve
 
i've been using jb weld on the hubs that way you only have to get is a new nut not a new rim.but for each wheel you need a hub +or-:stick:
 
my wheel nuts are the originals still... never stripped a hex, tried to once when the hex broke in a joe on v6 wheels, but ever since i went to savage-central adapters on 40 series outback welds, I've had no probs at all.... not even a loose wheel nut...
 
Originally posted by CRSMP5
my wheel nuts are the originals still... never stripped a hex, tried to once when the hex broke in a joe on v6 wheels, but ever since i went to savage-central adapters on 40 series outback welds, I've had no probs at all.... not even a loose wheel nut...
Click to expand...

this might be the right way to go-haven't tried it yet. but it doesn't sound bad, other than the fact that i'd have to buy 40 series outbacks and the adapters. jb weld is a little cheaper. but, hey, who am i to say?
 
it's kind of like epoxy putty, 2part application. mix the two together, supposed to be as strong as steel (it's really not). but it works really well. you can get it at any hardware store.
 
i doubt it, but w/enough work you can. that's why you have to buy new hubs for every wheel. it's kind of a pain in the butt to put it on. you have to line the pin up w/the slot, but other than that, no more stripped wheels!!
 

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