• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

2 spur grears in one day...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

everlast73

RCTalk Basher
Messages
42
Reaction score
0
Points
0
RC Driving Style
I have a save and for some reason I keep going through spur gears. I had it out today, I went through the first one in a matter of minutes. My set up was as follows:

XTM 24.7 Pro
15T/52T
4 shoe Clutch

When I started it, the thing ran great; had super torque and power. But I wore down the gear within minutes. Afterwhich, I changed the set up from a 4 shoe to an OFNA 3 shoe clutch. I reset the gear mesh using a peice of notebook paper. This seemed to last a little bit longer; I got about a half tank. But still, it chewed right through it. What gives? Is it possibe there is just too much power?

There seems to be some clearance between the the clutch bell and the spur gear, but not too much. Its getting a bit frustrating; the engine is running really well, but I can't seem to keep it from wearing it down. One thing I did notice is when it wears out, the front 2/3 of the spur gear is worn. The rest is completely perfect. Any tips would be extremely helpful. Thanks.
 
i got the regular XTM 24.7 with a crazy nut head on it on my supermaxx and what i found out was with the gearing is i had to small of a clutch bell and it had way to much torque and it would just rip through the gears. so i went 2 teeth higher and it helped a bit. but still went through quite a bit of gears. so then i went and got me a metal gear and it fixed everything. just make sure with a metal gear that u get it a good mesh.

also make sure that the engine is tightened to the motor mounts and the same with the motor mounts to the chassis. also make sure that the transmission is tighted down.

bryan
 
get a RRP (Robinson Racing Products) metal 52T spur gear... you won't have to strip again...


2027HBRRP.webp
 
i stripped 6 in like 3 days ...i think its ur cb try to changed it cuz maybe its heating it up ...it solve my problem ...i wanted that metal spur too but if u will imagine instead of strippin ur spur u might stripp something inside the tranny which will be worst ...make sure u got the right mesh too
 
Originally posted by badboy2
i stripped 6 in like 3 days ...i think its ur cb try to changed it cuz maybe its heating it up ...it solve my problem ...i wanted that metal spur too but if u will imagine instead of strippin ur spur u might stripp something inside the tranny which will be worst ...make sure u got the right mesh too



then if that's the case... then use this as well


product_SAV1000H.jpg



look at it this way.. if you plan on upgrading your engine you are eventually going to strip or break any stock parts... i knew when I was going with the WASP 26 i had to do some upgrading... I bought my Savage used for $200.. but already came with HD titanium dogbones and center shaft.. all I did was get the RRP metal spur, upgraded the tranny internals, GPM brake hub... I am all good... plus those tranny internals are good..
 
Last edited:
doesn't it make too much heat on the gears or u put some grease too?
 
i put grease... you have too on metal gears... aftermarket engines are not made for stock savage parts.. you can still use stock parts... toss in them correctly.. but they will evently strip out or break... and if you don't like that happening then toss back in the 21bb...
 
I just went to the RRP 52t metal spur last night, so far works great, but I didn't even think of applying a dab of grease, which sounds like a logical idea!
 
okay I actually put my stock Plastic 52T Spur Gear... trying to think how the NEWBIES strip there Savage 25... I actally stripped it.. i did the paper mesh and everything but I realized that I did not loosen the spur gear spring... this was fine for on road.. but when i took it off road it stripped it... so for you NEW Savage Owners... make sure that your spur gear spring is one full turn from the thighten point...
 
I have since gone to the Robinson Racing Spur gear; knock on wood, no problems as of yet. My friend has a Savage .25, he's put about one gallon through it and he stripped his spur gear last weekend...seems that it can go pretty fast on dirt and sand.
 
Make sure that engine is mounted tight to the mounts and that crossmembers under the mounts are tight to the aluminum main frame. I just noticed my spur starting to round down tonight. Also, the heatsink was touching the body, hmmm. Upon inspection, I noticed that I was missing 2 crossmember screws (one on each side)!! Whoops, I'll be checking them more often. I used blue locktight on the motor to the motormounts, but never on the crossmembers below the mounts.

Also, as far as the spur gear's normal (for me) life, it seems like I can get one to last a gallon. I do a lot of insane jumps so I am pretty pleased. I am hesitant to go to a metal spur because I fear I will translate that damage to the internals.
 
Actually unless you buy the new hardened clutch bell that will end up going before the internals (assuming that you are useing the stock engine) since the stock CB is a "softer" metal than the RRP metal spur, but like you said be sure the mesh is good and don't forget to use loc-tite on any screws that are metal to metal.
 
You only get a gallon out of your spur gears? I get like a whole session I guess i am luckie
 
Well I'd say that almost anyone can get longevity out of a spur gear if they have the time and patients to look at things after each run or atleast every other run to see how the mesh is holding up, as it wears (plastic or metal) you should take the time to re-adjust the mesh so you avoid a stripped gear........just my view on it, ofcoarse I could be totaly wrong, anyone have any input on this one?
 
Back
Top