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2.5 running really hot

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supermaxx258

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I have a t-maxx with a 2.5 and it runs over 290 degrees after running it for about 5-7 minutes and i was woundering if any one had any suggestions what might be able to help it out.

Andrew
 
I'm assuming the heat sink is clean. Is there good airflow over it? Is it the stock body? Is it a custom body and do you have holes cut in it to provide good airflow? Are you in Mexico or Alaska? (That can make a difference.) 290º isn't way far over the recommended limit but it is on the hot side. You may have it "race tuned", where the mixture is leaned to maximize performance but will pose a threat to engine life. Is it absolutely hauling ass right now with no popping or detonation when you let off the throttle? Does it die when you let off the throttle? A well-tuned engine may run at 260º when it's 70º outside. That same engine with a retune to compensate for ambient air temperature will run at 285º when it's 95º outside.

Richen it up a tad and see if you show a loss in performance. You should always have that nice blue trail of smoke from the exhaust.
 
All good information, wdavidhicks, but do not overlook a known issue that TRAXXAS engines are notorious for running on the hot side. 290 does not sound too high, even for the 2.5.

BUT I also recommend richening the mix a little and seeing what happens.
 
Last edited:
Hot....hot.......hot

This is an interesting Thread.
I've also got concerns about just how hot the TRX 2.5 block runs.
I resorted to chopping a nice big hole in the windscreen to improve airflow.
I started a Thread on temprature gauges, as I invested in one.
My maximum temprature reading was 302 degs F! But the MAXX ran without skipping a beat.
More info if you're interested.
 
Ventilating the body is a must. Each and every engine out there needs air flow over the cooling head to do its thing. If your shell does not have holes in it, start cutting.
 
Originally posted by SkyMaxx
Ventilating the body is a must. Each and every engine out there needs air flow over the cooling head to do its thing. If your shell does not have holes in it, start cutting.

SkyMaxx

You will be amazed at just how many MAXX owners do not cut a ventilation hole in their trucks.
I ran without one for a few weeks, but the MAXX kept cutting out when hot and was an absoloute swine to re-start, even with the "user friendly" EZ-Start system!

However, when I ran the MAXX minus the bodyshell, it barely skipped a beat. Now I've cut a decent sized vent into the windscreen, it behaves so much better.

I also attribute the "hot air" that lives within an unvented bodyshell to tuning problems. The carb does not enjoy sucking in pre-heated air, as my MAXX is much easier to tune since adding the vent.
 
Originally posted by Mondo


SkyMaxx

You will be amazed at just how many MAXX owners do not cut a ventilation hole in their trucks.

I'm not Sky, but really nothing much surprises me anymore. You would think that folks who spend $400 on a toy would read up on what they need to know. When I got my Maxx, I was smart enough to know that this was no toy(no matter what NA says) and I needed to learn some stuff.

As for the 2.5 running hot, there is not much I can add that hasn't already been stated.
 
Originally posted by Mondo
You will be amazed at just how many MAXX owners do not cut a ventilation hole in their trucks.
I think Colombian Pride 2 does not have any vent holes forward for air to enter. It does have a large rear cut out but I forgot to put vent holes forward. Dremel to the rescue!!!

Vent holes...
All better.

75CIMG0003.JPG


Mud optional....
 
I haven't cut a vent hole and the truck runs great. Is it strongly recommended to put the vent hole?
 
The cooler your engine runs, the cooler your engine runs. Think of it as this, the cooler your engine runs the longer it will live, within reason. If you routinely run temps in the high 200s or low 300s or higher you will eventually burn up your engine. If due to vents you get temps in the mid 200s at the high end of the spectrum your engine will burn up fewer bearings, cranks, pistons, etc...
 
i have all the windows cut out of it. it is a custom hummer body. my hsn is at 4.5 and low is set flush. i live in Kennewick WA. woyuld richin the lsn help coll it down.

andrew
 
Andrew, richening up the LSN will not cool the engine down, try richening up the HSN just a little 1/16 a turn at a time. Give it some time to adjust to those new setting before taking the temp. On a 2.5, if you get it to around 270 you should be alright. On thing to consider is your throttle input. If you go WOT for any length of time, you will drive the temps up through the roof. Only go WOT for a second or two before letting up.
 
Originally posted by nitro dave


You would think that folks who spend $400 on a toy would read up on what they need to know. When I got my Maxx, I was smart enough to know that this was no toy(no matter what NA says) and I needed to learn some stuff.

nitro dave,

That is the T-MAXX's downfall. While shopping at a LHS in the UK, I saw a couple of guys interested in T-MAXX 2.5's and enquired if they had any RC (and Nitro RC) experience.
Much to my suprise, these guys were first time RC'ers and they had heard that T-MAXXes are fun, so they both decided to purchase one each.

I made a few suggestions to the RC rookies and the Hobby Shop owner was quite impressed and started playing "20 questions" with me about tuning T-MAXXes.
He then informed me that he had only be carrying the T-MAXX range for a month or so and had sold just under 10, mainly to first-timers. Every first timer had either called in or returned to the LHS with complaints about tuning the T-MAXX, even though they had watched the Traxxas supplied DVD over and over.
In fact, the HS owner had sent three back to Traxxas UK due to "problems"!
I wonder just how many TRX 2.5 engines have ground to a premature halt in the wrong hands?

The T-MAXX is a toy and it's a great toy, however it's not for RC rookies.
A 1.7HP, 5.5Kg 40mph+ truck is a dangerous weapon in the wrong hands!
 
Clearly, I am not surprised by the mistakes that newbies make. That is what helps them learn. Sometimes, the lesson is costly (ie they have to replace the engine).

Point of fact, richening the LSN will not give any added cooling. Richening the HSN will.

Point of fact, while ventilation holes in any body are not required, they ARE and excellent way to make the engine happy. Keep the airflow over the cooling head, and the engine will run cooler. The holes do not have to be huge, they just have to be large enough to allow air to circulate under the shell.

Point of fact, engines rarely like pre-heated air. They actually prefer to injest cooler air. One more reason to ventilate the body, and perhaps use a cold air intake modification (not a huge gain in performance for these little engines, but every bit helps).

Finally, point of fact, TRAXXAS engines (all of them) run on the hot side. They just do. No matter what the books say, the engines always run hot and inconsistantly so. I have never heard of a group of engines from one company that run so poorly. They either run way too hot, or they just don't run. Yes, the new engine is an improvement over the old, BUT...ask the LHS around the world how many they have had to return or service or both, and you will find the number to be quite surprising and large.

On the topic of newbies in the hobby...help them. They will need it, and one day they may return the favor. Trust me, I've been there.
 
Originally posted by Mondo

The T-MAXX is a toy and it's a great toy, however it's not for RC rookies.
A 1.7HP, 5.5Kg 40mph+ truck is a dangerous weapon in the wrong hands!


Originally posted by SkyMaxx
Clearly, I am not surprised by the mistakes that newbies make. That is what helps them learn. Sometimes, the lesson is costly (ie they have to replace the engine).


Mondo I chose the T-Maxx as my first RC after doing extensive resarch, so I don't see why it's not suitable for rookies after all it is targeted at them.... it should just have a more noob friendly Engine......



Oh and Sky Been there done that!!!!!!!

damn conrod stretched at 2 1/4 gallons and destroyed my P/S and bearings :doh
 
Originally posted by nitro dave
try richening up the HSN just a little 1/16 a turn at a time.

Hey NDave? Don't "they" recommend tuning from the rich side on nitro engines? i.e. If lean conditions are diagnosed then richen the needle a quarter turn and make incremental leaning adjustments from there.
 
You can skin this cat several ways. One way is to do it in the fashion you mentioned; another is the way Dave mentioned. Depends on the engine. I know I have to step mine up when going from lean to rich and then down again, but my engine is a Fantom. Might be different on a 2.5 or other TRAXXAS POS.
 
i turn with 25% fuel, crazynut cooling head, RB carburator, n°6 RB glow plug, motor-saver air filter, picco tuned pipe and my maxx have a very stable and fit temperature :)
 

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