100% aluminum tmaxx

[jose.28]

I'm thinking about doing a full aluminum tmaxx.
What does the world think of this? And where is the best place to order?

 

[hulkmaxx]

Unless its a shelf queen I would not advise it. I have built 2 full alum trucks, trust me there for looks only.

 

[Zdragon71]

Your gonna need deep pockets for sure. RD Logics makes nice aluminum fuel tank and trans case along with a few other parts. Check ebay for a chassis and braces. Also unlimited engineering for quality yet pricey suspension arms and carriers. You can buy integy brand aluminum if you just want it to be a shelf queen but i assure you a beer can has more strength than integy aluminum. Hell if you got the money to put into it i say go for it. Sure will be pretty to look at.

 

[Snook Man]

Unless its a shelf queen I would not advise it. I have built 2 full alum trucks, trust me there for looks only.

:whhooo: I have a couple all aluminum rigs that can take a lot of abuse but...Unless your willing to spend the $$ to do it right ($1000.00 will get you close) its a waist of money if you intend to race/bash it.

 

[Phins Fan]

Not only is it a big investment but not very practical if you plan on actually running it IMO. You need to have certain areas flexible. If you hit something and bend a suspension arm it wont go back to its original shape like the stock ones or even RPM. Certain areas would be wise to upgrade to aluminum like the bulkheads and braces under the chassis. Other things that serve no purpose other than bling can be the fuealtank and radiobox. All aluminum is beautiful on a shelf for its entire life but not to purpose worthy while bashing. If you have the $ to throw away than by all means do it to have that pretty rig. Otherwise invest it in another rig to beat on as well

 

[jose.28]

Reading this assures me no good will come out of my tmaxx.
So new questions.
My tmaxx is old and i want to make it batter and faster.
What do you all recommend geting? Mine is stock. With the old 2.5.

Tmaxx is my favorite out of all my rcs so i will build and all aluminum
One from the tires up one part a month lol

 

[hulkmaxx]

There are tons of options for the maxx out there if it were me I would stay with the older #4910 platform, just get yourself a nice aftermarket chassis and go from there.

 

[jose.28]

There are tons of options for the maxx out there if it were me I would stay with the older #4910 platform, just get yourself a nice aftermarket chassis and go from there.

Yeah buddy. I was looking up parts for it and wow i never looked for parts for a maxx but man is there tons.
My jato and ofna or harder to find parts for.

 

[Kyleb]

You can build a all aluminum maxx that can take a beating. Just have to use quality parts and it's expensive lol. I've crashed my maxx lots, a few times I swear I would have brokemy rpm arms. while my aluminum ones were intact

 

[Childresshunt]

personally i wouldnt build a all aluminum maxx unless it was going to be a shelf queen or if i just really wanted to go all aluminum id do everything aluminum except the arms id use rpm there bc its likely thats whats going to bend when running aluminum. but also remember if your going to run an aluminum man you basically have to either loctight all screws or tighten super tight or they will vibrate loose

 

[Phins Fan]

You can build a all aluminum maxx that can take a beating. Just have to use quality parts and it's expensive lol. I've crashed my maxx lots, a few times I swear I would have brokemy rpm arms. while my aluminum ones were intact

A valid point but at the same time you could get a free replacement RPM arm vs you would have to BUY a new set of aluminums once they bend

 

[Kyleb]

For sure plastic is cheaper but some people enjoy the "wow" factor. If I was too bend one of my UE widetrac arms a replacement is only $16 with the warranty.

 

[Alexander_0_1]

My first basher I used Golden Horizon blue anodized aluminum I've had this thing for about 5 years maybe, the highest I've jumped it I think was about 9' the only thing that bent was my integy skid plates...I had hoped they were a good buy, their not.

---------- Post added at 3:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:39 PM ----------

By the way, if you run all aluminum choose your playing ground, gravel will pit that anodized aluminum up pretty fast

 

[SMaxxin]

An all aluminum Maxx can bash but a hard crash can destroy most of the truck even with the best parts! When there is no weak point all of the parts absorb the impact. I watched a Maxx that was 95% aluminum hit a stop sign at WOT and it was a mangled ball of parts afterwards. With plastic you end up with one or two broken parts.

With that said if you want all aluminum you want to find UE parts.

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/ext_nitro.shtml


What ever you do stay away from Integy parts!

 

[Alexander_0_1]

Hey is that site for t-maxxs only or do they make savage stuff too?

 

[Snook Man]

If you intend to build an aluminum rig that you intend to run hard, do not cheap out and do some research to see what works well and what doesn’t or you are just setting yourself up for disappointment and $$ down the drain. If you don’t intend to go all out with good quality parts just build yourself a standard based basher with aluminum down the center and plastic on the corners.

I’ve spent about 14 hours and over a gallon of fuel the last 4 days at the track testing and setting up this mostly aluminum rig.

The only failures have been a ball end pulled off of a rear toe link (can happen on any rig) and a broken front wheel cvd. The cvd broke when I swapped out the aluminum front a-arms with RPM arms, a hard landing off a double jump and the rpm arms flexed enough to cause the cvd to bind. I put the aluminum arms back on and have had no further issues with the cvd’s.

Yes I have also bent UE a-arms; here is a lower arm I bent about 3 weeks ago.

Top arm bent

I took a big jump off center and landed on the corrugated pipe that outlines the track. Just so happened there was a piece of rebar sticking up about 2 inches above the pipe and the lower arm shock mount opening caught the rebar perfectly. The hit was so hard it sounded like someone was playing horseshoes and nailed a ringer (I could here it over the sound of the engine).
If an rpm arm had caught in the same area it may have slid off the rebar will only a gouge but if it caught the rebar like the aluminum arm did there is no question in my mind that the rpm arm would have broken. If you run aluminum you just have to be prepared to replace the part when you kill it. You have to expect it every now and then even with the good stuff if you run hard. I was prepared and had spares on hand.

There were quite a few people over the last few days who thought they were being schooled on the track by a truggy and went home scratching their heads when they found out it was a TMaxx based rig that was lapping them. All Aluminum can work well but only if you’re willing to spend the money on the good stuff and take the time/effort needed to set it up correctly.

Best part of my Memorial weekend was on the drivers stand when I overheard someone say several times “Watch out, that Truggys right behind you again”

 

[Alexander_0_1]

Ok, how much research have you done on aluminum, in you opinion what's the strongest?

---------- Post added at 5:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:55 PM ----------

That's one project I was considering, switching up the set up on one of my savages so it can stomp the crap out of truggies.

What aluminum parts will be the strongest

 

[Snook Man]

Machined billet T6 7075, If I can't make it myself I prefer Unlimited Engineering parts.
And no, they (UE) do not have parts for the Savage.

 

[SchrodeMode]

I just noticed you sig Snook.....

 

[Alexander_0_1]

I like you MT?