What did you repair...?

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

stbob

WWJD
Messages
118
Reaction score
201
i repaired the mini revo. Enjoyed repairing the vehicle almost as much as i enjoyed busting it up. Getting old sucks, will be ordering myself a magnifying work light. No fancy upgrades yet, more economic to continue breaking oem parts. Although i did splurge a little in preparation for the future, 2024...
mini-erevo-riprs.jpg

202401rs.jpg
 
Very nice. I enjoy breaking stuff. I'm retired so it gives me something to do and I don't drive the wife nuts.
 
Repaired cracked front suspension arm on mini revo using shoe goo and a few layers of thin plastic sheeting to form a cast...
crack-headcprs.jpg

shoegoors.jpg
 
I am waiting for parts to repair, rear diff , shock stem, front a arm, rear suspension shaft lol. Curbs are very unforgiving to the rb7ss, however all parts are currently Jb welded and or substituted with fabricated parts lol.
 
After mowing the lawn this evening, I took the 6 days old Redcat Gen8 out for a crawl on the property. 5 minutes in, the driving got a bit wonky. Upon inspection, I found that it had lost all power to the front wheels.
Brought it inside, popped it on the bench, and studied the layout of the front end. I'd noticed that the driveshaft wasn't sitting flushed against the axle. I tugged on the drive shaft and out it came. Now, completely disconnected from the axle.
After a bit of disassembling, I got to the pinion gear. A small screw that held the pinion gear to the drive shaft had worked it's way completely out. Looks like someone forgot to put thread locker on the screw. Cleaned off the screw, applied thread locker, and started putting the diff back together. Before I screwed the cover back on, I packed in plenty more grease.
Since the wheels were off, I accessed the porter axle and packed those in with grease was well.
Everything went so well and easy, I decided to go ahead and add extra grease to the rear diff and porter axles as well.
 
Rebuilt front shock & replaced the suspension arm on the rustler 4x4 (brushed edition). Waiting on a slow boat to restock my connection so i can upgrade to a brushless motor...
30wtrs.jpg

30wt02rs.jpg
If your Rusty 4X4 was brushed before you may want to check into upgrading the other driveline parts that are upgraded on the VXL model or you can just replace them if/when they break. Just a thought. The VXL also has adjustable turnbuckles that you can use also if you were so inclined.
 
If your Rusty 4X4 was brushed before you may want to check into upgrading the other driveline parts that are upgraded on the VXL model or you can just replace them if/when they break. Just a thought. The VXL also has adjustable turnbuckles that you can use also if you were so inclined.
Replacement upgrades is most likely inevitable. But before i start that endeavor though, i've got to explore more of the root causes of the majority of damage issues...
 
Replacement upgrades is most likely inevitable. But before i start that endeavor though, i've got to explore more of the root causes of the majority of damage issues...
User error
😁
 
Worked on my stampede 4x4, but found my FLM/HR center diff was dead, so I replaced the broken rear bulkhead and shocktower, then ordered the Traxxas 6780 diff. Hoping that holds up to 4S with a BLX185 and 4074 2200kv motor better.

Then I replaced the rear tower on my eJato as it exploded on a nasty landing last week. The body was destroyed as well and I dug through my stuff to find an old cheapo body I had for my stampede, so I did my best at making it fit:
2021-0507-eJato-TruckBodyMounts-side-bodyOn.jpg


I had to leave it a bit high so the front tires didn't hit it when they compress. I mesh tape/shoe goo'd it, so will see how long it lasts. That's the first time I ever did that to a body. Still picking bits of shoe goo off my fingers. Didn't have any rubber gloves like I thought I did.

Hoping the flexible body mounts help absorb the shock, if not, guessing my front tower won't last too long... lol!
2021-0507-eJato-TruckBodyMounts-side-high.jpg


Also replaced my outcast 6S rear body mounts with some RPM 80172 posts that I cut down to fit. I have them on the front as well already and they seem to hold up better than the stock ones.
 
Recently widened the length of the mini revo's wheelbase with part #7132R. Was very disheartened to say the least when i discovered that this part would throw off the toe jam angle of the rear wheels and was unable to find any adjustable toe links to correct the problem. I'll be the first to admit that possibly due to my lack of experience with the physics of rc's, no adjustments were needed but with that said, i lost patience trying to adjust the toe jam using only the pivot balls so i broke out the heat gun, heated the plastic toe links and stretched them about 3/16 longer. Looks much more better, will give this a test spin asap...
armx01rs.jpg

Part #7132R...

toejam.jpg

Toe jam out, bad...

toejam02rs.jpg

Heat & Stretch...

toejam03rs.jpg

More better...
 
Recently widened the length of the mini revo's wheelbase with part #7132R. Was very disheartened to say the least when i discovered that this part would throw off the toe jam angle of the rear wheels and was unable to find any adjustable toe links to correct the problem. I'll be the first to admit that possibly due to my lack of experience with the physics of rc's, no adjustments were needed but with that said, i lost patience trying to adjust the toe jam using only the pivot balls so i broke out the heat gun, heated the plastic toe links and stretched them about 3/16 longer. Looks much more better, will give this a test spin asap...
armx01rs.jpg

Part #7132R...

toejam.jpg

Toe jam out, bad...

toejam02rs.jpg

Heat & Stretch...

toejam03rs.jpg

More better...

Status report on the initial test run of the heated & stretched toe jam linkage resulted in a weakened brittle plastic... Will have to look into getting a plastic printer and make my own toe jam links. I'll also be on the lookout for some small diameter metal tubing to perhaps re-enforce the stretched brittle plastic linkage. Till i make an executive decision, i'll probably just swap the wide kit suspension arms back to the stock ones... We did have a fast five minutes of fun before the toe jam link busted. Today constructed our first jump ramp. Got in several jumps. Was about to reconfigure the ramp closer to a 90 degree launch ramp but had to abort when i noticed the linkage damage had been already done...
kerplunkrs.jpg

kerplunk02rs.jpg

ramp02rs.jpg

ramp05rs.jpg


 
Status report on the initial test run of the heated & stretched toe jam linkage resulted in a weakened brittle plastic... Will have to look into getting a plastic printer and make my own toe jam links. I'll also be on the lookout for some small diameter metal tubing to perhaps re-enforce the stretched brittle plastic linkage. Till i make an executive decision, i'll probably just swap the wide kit suspension arms back to the stock ones... We did have a fast five minutes of fun before the toe jam link busted. Today constructed our first jump ramp. Got in several jumps. Was about to reconfigure the ramp closer to a 90 degree launch ramp but had to abort when i noticed the linkage damage had been already done...
kerplunkrs.jpg

kerplunk02rs.jpg

ramp02rs.jpg

ramp05rs.jpg


Probably have to get these:
https://traxxas.com/products/parts/7138X

If you think about it, by going with wider arms, you have no choice but to get longer turnbuckles/tierods. If your adjusting the toe by screwing the pivot balls in further, your removing any width the wider arms are giving you.

That said, reading the description of these on traxxas site: https://traxxas.com/products/parts/7138X

They make the wheel base is longer, not the track width.
 
Probably have to get these:
https://traxxas.com/products/parts/7138X

If you think about it, by going with wider arms, you have no choice but to get longer turnbuckles/tierods. If your adjusting the toe by screwing the pivot balls in further, your removing any width the wider arms are giving you.

That said, reading the description of these on traxxas site: https://traxxas.com/products/parts/7138X

They make the wheel base is longer, not the track width.
i gottem and then some. The turnbuckles worked out well. Swapped out the traxxas axle carriers for the gpm 73165, pita installing without the required size hex wrench, my bad. Also some blue aluminum lug nuts & hubs for aesthetics... :hehe:
upgrade02rs.jpg

upgrade03rs.jpg

sharp01rs.jpg


Before & After pic of wheelbase length...
nocontrol02rs.jpg

upgrade08rs.jpg


Approximately 10 minutes into todays session after slamming into a curb my ball popped out of its joint. Suppose it coulda been worse, it was a pretty hard hit...
ballsrs.jpg
 
One of these days Ima have to get me one of those little MERVs...they look like theyre a blast!

They are! I had one, on 4s, it was a little beast. Stand still backflips all day. Very durable too, on par with a slash.
 
Last night, I installed a new Hobbywing esc onto the TRX4 Defender. The 3wk old stock Traxxas esc went up in smoke and Traxxas refused to warranty it because I wasn't using Traxxas batteries.
This ordeal with Traxxas may actually be a blessing in disguised because this Hobbywing Quicrun wp 1080 esc looks to be awesome! At a little over $40(1/3 cheaper than the stock Traxxas) it is water proof and includes a programming module. Hobbywing also has an excellent reputation for their esc for years she years now, and I hear they really stand behind their products.......unlike Thraxxas(not a typo)!
0702212153.jpg
 
Fast field repair on the 4th on the rustler 4x4...
forth001rs.jpg

fieldrepari.jpg

fieldrepair01rs.jpg
 
Back
Top