• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

Want to race my T-MAXX any hop-up ideas

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bbspurgeon

RCTalk Member
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
Points
0
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
I currently have a .15 maxx with the 2.5r on it. I have put the traxxas upgraded pipe on it and also have the 3.3 maxx diffs in front and back. I am looking for up grades to stop roll overs (gearing, lowering, springs, longer a-arms, wheel extensions, supercharger)???? Also I have an issue with my steering sometimes is steers fine and then suddenly it stops steering so well. Looked at going with the proline kit but didn't want to spend that much if I didn't have to. If you have any ideas let me know. I am willing to try anything.

Thanks Ben:first_place:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
do you mean racing in competitions or just racing around the house. I don't believe the tmaxx was really designed to be a racer.

I would get aluminum bulkheads and then RPM everything else that you can. As long as you don't put anything integy on it, you'll be fine. this will make it as solid as a tmaxx can possibly be.
 
buy a revo

Seriously, why even post? He's not looking for opinion on a new truck. Did I miss that question in his post? I think not.

Although the T-Maxx may not have been designed to be a racer, it certainly is capable of being competative at the local track in MT races. As far as rollovers are concerned... widening the track will help alot, you have the older Maxx with the short arms so if you upgrade to the wider suspension arms that would be helpful. If you are going to upgrade, you might as well go with RPM arms. They are not very expensive and they can take a fair amount of abuse above and beyond TRX stock parts. Also, lowering the ride height and swapping out for stiff springs will aid in preventing rollovers as well.
 
The reason i said buy a revo is because they cost $400, your going to spend $400 really fast on upgraded that t-maxx and it still wont be as good as the revo in a race. T-Maxx is a basher, not meant to race, but if you want to race it, i say keep it stock and race and have fun. just dont expect to win
 
I would honestly look online for a 3.3 Maxx roller. I know your not looking to buy a new rig but it would probably be cheaper. You could probably find a decent one for about 150 200 with a couple upgrades. To race one you would Definitely want to buy extended A-arms. RPM has very good parts that are not too expensive. Plus they are lifetime warrentied. Get some good aluminum bulkheads, CVD's, Lunsford titanium turnbuckles, some aluminum shocks(something like big bores) A FOC if not already have it, and tires. Then you should have a decent rig that can keep up with a revo. :p::D:p:
 
I would do what pretty much every one said and in the rear for racing go with the RPM true track set uphttp://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/traxxas/MaxxPts3.htm#trutrack , as for tires look at the Proline bow ties or crime fighters both are good track tires http://www.pro-lineracing.com/c-13-tires.aspx and the Traxxas big bore shocks with stiffer springs with a lowered stance like a-arms level would be a huge improvment on the track http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP65&P=ML http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHWJ7&P=7 ...
 
Thanks for all the help! I am looking into those ideas. Couple more questions do I need to put all 8 shocks extra heavy or just the 4 cornor ones?? Also does that RPM true track setup have widen a-arms or are the stock length? Is there any other shocks better than the big bore or is that the best bet?

Thanks for the help
 
I would suggest running 8 shocks unless you are go to aluminum shock towers, and if you do go that route of course you're going to need to run significantly stiffer springs. Yes, the RPM true track arms are longer like the newer Maxxes. Most TMaxx enthusiasts here believe the Big Bore shocks are the best. I've run a few different shocks and the Big Bores are by far the best. They are the smooth, less likely to leak, and plenty strong as far as shocks go compared to others.
 
Thanks alot for the help. I know I asked if the a-arms where longer but what do I do for the front then? Does that mean I will have to get longer half shafts?? So the springs on the big bore aren't that good or just for better results get the stiff ones? Sorry for all the questions I am kinda new at this.
 
Last edited:
The springs on the big bores are soft i believe. But what he was saying is if you go with 4 shocks you would need stiffer springs. And Yes, 4 shocks would help in handling a little bit. What you would want to do is buy 1/8 scale buggy shocks.
 
RPM makes standard style (adjustable toe) extended arms. If you want to extend the track width of the front wheels you could pick up a couple sets of these. I'm not 100% sure on the driveshafts though. I've never dealt with the old truck. The springs on the Big Bores are the same as the springs that came on the truck originally. LosiLST has it right, if you go to 4 shocks you would need to put heavier springs on them because only 4 of the stock springs won't cut it. The truck would barely stand up
 
I think I confused some people about saying 4 shocks. What I meant was do I only need to put stiff springs on 4 of my shocks but keeping all 8 on the truck. I saw one with the stiff springs on all 4 corners and stock springs on the inside. Sorry if I confused people. Would this be worth it I know it only saves me like 8 dollars but just wondering?
 
I think a lot of people mix shocks at the corners but you don't want to get them tooo far off balanced. I have a mixed setup on mine but there the difference between the two shocks is not extremely severe. You don't want one shock to be ultra stiff and one to be ultra soft because it put weird stresses on your shock towers. However, if you are running aluminum towers it doesn't matter.
 
Back
Top