Traxxas Rustler Nitro 2.5

[lsufan225]

Hi i just bought a new (my first) nitro rc yesterday. It is a Traxxas Rustler Nitro 2.5. I have a few newbie questions. Ok i did the break the engine thing in as stated in post and the owners manual. I think i pretty much corrected that part. I tried to spray the WD40 into the carb to prevent the rusting. I am not so sure if i did that correctly. Today before i started it a oily type substance came out of the exhuast pipe? And ideas. Or is that a proper thing?

secondly. I have alot of trouble keeping it started. I am not understanding exactly where the idle screw is. I see the screw to move it farther in/out. But how exactly do i adjust the idle by the screw?. Also I'm having trouble finding out whether I'm running it rich or lean. I see a nice stream of smoke,but the gas is not shooting out of the exhaust.

I have ran the car somewhat fast,but i havent totally gotten down on it neither,and the glow plug went out today. Is that a common thing after 2-3 hours of running it?

I have not touched the lower end valve whatsoever the top valve i have the rich/lean valve up top. It was running a bit sluggish and boggish today. SO i tried turning it according to the owners manual just a 1/8 turn. And it wouldnt start period. I really enjoy this hobby,and want to persue it. Just having some simple starting problems. I dont know anyone relatively close that is into the hobby,and the hobby store isnt exactly local. Its 2 hours away. Any help here would be appreciated. Also one last thing. I seem to flip it quite a bit any ideas on how to make it hug a littler more when turning?

Also i am hoping that its the glow plug that went out and i didnt burn the engine up. When i put the igniter on it the glow plug indicator did not light up that is why i am assuming that its the glowplug that went out

Thank you,Jerry

 

[swarmjt]

get a temp gun.. crucial to tuning. you do have to adjust the high speed while tuning.. glow plug should last way longer

 

[lsufan225]

Any ideas to the glow plug situation. Is there anything i should attempt to clean or something. Maybe some sort of something blocking it from igniting? Or would you be willing to say burnt engine? Damn i hope not lol

 

[swarmjt]

if u want.. i have a dvd ill send you that will explain everything.. just pay shipping.. the dvd is called ULTIMATE NITRO ENGINE TUNING it is a how to dvd

btw this DVD is available to anyone who wants it.. will burn copys for anybody.. just pay shipping

 

[olds97_lss]

I'd suggest getting an external plug heater: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJ803&P=ML

2-3 hours of constant running for a new person is quite a long time. Some manuals suggest replacing the plug after you get through the break-in process due to metal contaminants that get stuck to the filament during break-in.

Once you learn better on how to tune by ear, feel and temp, plugs will last you longer (or should).

For a new person, temp readings at the glow plug are your best guide to tuning. Granted, temps aren't the holy grail, but they will help you get a feel for whats going on inside your engine. Over time, you learn to hear, see and "feel" the tune a bit and use temp just as a reference.

 

[TeamLosiNXT]

Also when you do break in, engines tend to run richer and can foul the plug, so dont worry about that.

 

[lsufan225]

Ok so update. I bought a new plug today. Ran it around for a bit,and i noticed the change in sound so i drove it over by me. The engine had a small portion of steam coming from it. So i killed it. Let it cool. And richened it up. Obviously i was running a bit too lean today. The temp compared to yesterday is alot hotter outside. Now i have another question. Well actually two. I rolled it, and the plastic piece that sits ontop of the engine. I guess its a protecter type thing. Well it has fallen off and not to be found. Is that a huge issue. Is it replaceable and what exactly is that piece called? And secondly. Where the plug goes in the engine. I noticed some black tar/oil gunk building up at the very bottom around the plug. Any suggestions about that? Any help is greatly appreciated. And i also plan to buy a temp this week after payday. I am only able to do one thing at a time after spending 400+ lol

 

[olds97_lss]

The gunk around the GP area should be cleaned out. Dirt gets down in there and gets baked to the engine. If you do clean it, take the plug out, hold the truck upside down (really awkward), and try to dig it out with a wooden pop cycle stick or q-tip that has been dipped in DA (alcohol). You want to hold it upside down to avoid getting the gunk down in the GP hole.

The plastic thing isn't a big deal, but it does help protect the head in a roll over.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDGF5&P=Z

Guys also use zipties through the holes in the head for the same effect.

Case in point, this guy went a little nuts:

And this guy got crafty:

 

[lsufan225]

Hey thanks alot on that info. This site is helping me alot. I can really see myself getting into this hobby. I just wish some of my buddies would go get some cars it gets lonely solo lol. BUt thanks for the info. I've just got to figure out a way to keep it on the ground better. Maybe because I'm a noob this car is giving me a tough time keeping control of it. I dont know how to adjust the idle setting neither. I am not sure which screw to adjust lol. Yes i know laugh I'm a noob. I just run it for a bit and put it up. I dont want to take a chance and mess anything up severly. Is there a site that can help to see what tracks are in Louisiana?

 

[olds97_lss]

The idle is the silver one on the opposite side of the carb you see here:

Screw it in to make the idle higher, out to make it lower. It basically keeps the carb throttle slide from going all the way shut. It allows you adjust how for in the slide goes.

 

[lsufan225]

damn thanks for the picture. That is a huge help. I've been assuming its near the throttle lol. Good thing i have this forum to look forward to thanks a ton!. Also just a quick fix. Any daily maintenance i should be aware of? I am blowing the WD40 into the Carb. Cleaning the air filter daily. Other than that just kinda cleaning the dust off. Also is a fuel filter a good idea or useless? I really dont want to improve anything that is going to make it faster at this moment. I am having trouble keeping it on all 4 wheels as it is lol

 

[olds97_lss]

I don't know... I'm not sure if the rustler has one in the tank or not. If you don't see a stone filter in the tank, it's a good idea to get an external filter.

Other than what your doing, going over it with a screwdriver and making sure all screws are tight is one other thing you should do. Pay special attention to the engine mount screws. They vibrate loose often.

 

[lsufan225]

one other thing if you are still paying attention to this thread. I just looked at my car. And the idle is not accessible unless i take a few gear things off. Is that normal?

 

[olds97_lss]

Gear things?

Sorry, I don't know the rustler. I mean, I know what it is, I just don't know the intimate details of it. I know the idle adjustment is typically a pain to get at on most vehicles, but you shouldn't need to remove anything... in theory.

 

[Cupooterluvr]

I don't know... I'm not sure if the rustler has one in the tank or not.

Only Jato and Revo have them stock. But it is a good idea to get one whether the truck has one already or not.... one less piece of dust in your engine, and it holds extra fuel for when you flip it so often

Also, before you adjust the idle... Try the pinch test. You said you didn't touch the low end.... It was pretty rich from factory on my Maxx on the LSN.

Pinch test:

Pull a couple high speed runs to clear out any excess fuel from the engine.

Pull it in and pinch the fuel line right next to the carb.

If it dies immediately, richen it 1/8 turn.

If it speeds up then dies after 4 or more seconds, lean it 1/16.

If it speeds up slightly then dies in 2-3 seconds, then you're right on target.

After you do the test and get your needle set, THEN you adjust idle speed. A common mistake is to use idle speed rather than needle settings, which can give you bad bottom end.

 

[lsufan225]

Thanks for the input i will give the pinch test a try out tomorrow . As for the idle screw. I can't seem to get any of these allen wrenches in there to turn it. The gear thing i was referring to. Excuse me i dont know alot about technical parts, but its the circle gear with teeth that makes the back wheels turn. Not sure what you would call that lol drive shaft maybe? But yea the allen wrenches that came with my car will not allow me to get into it. I think maybe if i removed all 3 pieces of the carb it might be turnable. But its deffinately idling a bit high. I am not sure how the idle trim works,but i have it turned all the way to the right of 0(off)

 

[olds97_lss]

Allen? It's not an allen. It's a blade/standard screw driver. It's a 2.5 right? Your not adjusting the right screw.

I can take a pic of my 2.5 if I can find it to show you.

 

[lsufan225]

Sounds good. I am in the process of uploading some pics to try to get some clarification too.

 

[olds97_lss]

Here you go:

http://home.comcast.net/~98gmarquee/pics/misc/2007-1212-2.5IdleScrew.jpg

Click the link, maybe that will work. Some people have issues seeing my images, others don't.

 

[lsufan225]

Hmm all i see is a box with a x in it. Let me try this picture

I am talking about the little screw thing at the bottom of the Rich/Lean High end knob. Is this correct?