Traxxas E Revo Vxl 6s

[Erbejeff388]

Hey everyone. Just trying to get a feel for how many of you guys actually have an E Revo and what kind of hop ups you have installed. I have an E Revo 2.0 vxl 6s that I got VERY lightly used for about 250 and it didn't come with the instructions so any pics would be great. I may have a lot of questions so hopefully you guys can help me out. Thanks

 

[tntpoof]

I run 3 different Erevos one mini.1 1V one 2nd .. Hopup I have made to the 1st 2 only was rpm arm and hubs . cvds on both..v2 only change was made was a servo

 

[olds97_lss]

This gets wordy...

I had a v1, hopped up a bit, converted it to a v2 using a roller so I could run 6S in it. I started with the v1 motor/esc (aftermarket servo/receiver) in my v2, but the esc died on me on the 2nd or 3rd 6S run, which seems odd since so many people tout the MXL-6S/Mamba Monster 2 as a very stable/reliable esc. I did run it for 3 years on 4S. Never overheated it or the motor. Added some stuff I have now, inlcuding a horrible looking roll bar to keep the body from crumpling in half every time I land on the roof.

I now have a max6 and blx2050kv 4074 motor in mine. I tried running stock talon ext tires for a bit, but didn't care for the severe lack of grip in the grass and the lower profile of them causing excess belly drag and lacking cushion on landings. I run kevlar wrapped trencher 3.8's on it. Might get a set of arrma backflips for it for next season so I can gear it up a bit more and keep temps down. The trenchers are heavy, which is hard on the motor/esc and suspension, but being tall sidewall aids in landing big air, so a bit of a catch 22. They also hold up well on pavement, which I run on a bit at skate parks. I did like the width of the talon ext's vs my trenchers, so I got some 1/2" offset hubs, which will still come in handy if I do get backflips as they are zero offset.

Running tini hard anno'd shocks on it with RC Raven dual rate springs. I was running VDK #2 pistons front/rear with 70wt, but after breaking the rear pistons in half twice, I switched to 60wt and standard pistons. I use alloy p2 rockers as well. I have limiting cables on the rear that connect to the rear body post and the lower arm where the pushrods connect (many just connect to the rockers to protect shock ends, I connect to arms to help protect everything).

I put v2 RPM arms on the front, but had clearance issues with the integy rockers I had. RPM blamed integy... even though they worked fine on the v1 and both my nitro revo's... ended up grinding a bit off and changing out for some rockers that don't capture the pushrod. Also using the bottom hingepin hole for extra clearance so the nuts don't hit the arms at full extension along with using the upgraded 8619 pushrods with beefier ends:

The 8619 rods vs stock v2 rods:

The ends are marginally thicker/wider. v2 stock:

8619 rods:

Those are on the rear as well:

Made my own rear chassis brace out of 1/8" 6061, bent the traxxas alloy one pretty bad on my 3rd bash, never ran the v2 stock plastic one on the rear. I run t-bone front/rear skids/wheelie bar, which I modified a bit to connect the bendy part on the rear to the wing mount so it doesn't flap/slap when it lands a jump. I also replaced the wheels with x-maxx wheelie bar wheels. Would ahve used arrma wheels like I did on the tbone on my outcast, but they are pricey and I got the x-maxx wheelie bar cheap.

My v2 roller came with a traxxas steel rear/center cvd, so not sure if that's good or bad, but so far, it's been holding up for more than a year of abuse. All I've done with the front/rear diffs is pull them, clean the ring/pinion, regrease and replace the bearings. Never opened the cups. I did switch the outdrives on the rear for each side as they were pretty worn on the edge that impacts the bones when going forward.

Replaced the center skid/tunnel with an aluminum one as I kept breaking it. Recently updated the servo saver with mostly alloy one (part of it didn't fit), but I broke the piece that holds the bearing/spring kept breaking.

A couple remaining ongoing issues that I can't seem to find a fix for are bending the rocker posts and the battery doors breaking at the hinges. Lunsford used to make titanium posts, but they don't anymore. Integy makes battery doors that have an actual mechanical hinge, but are $60+. I know integy's alloy sucks, but for something like that, it has to be better than replacing the doors every other bash session that I'm currently doing.

How it started in 2017 as a v1 brushless my wife got me for Christmas:

A year ago in 2019 when I first converted to a v2 and moved stuff over:

vs now:

Got a probodyrc indestructible body on it this year, could likely do away with the center roll bar... but it helps keep the body from smashing into my fans on the motor:

Anything I forgot historically should be here, I tried to keep the thread up to date:
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/new-to-the-erbe-christmas-came-a-couple-days-early.113621

 

[Erbejeff388]

So I'm thinking about changing the axles and drive shafts in my erevo. Anybody have any thoughts on the hot racing shafts?

 

[olds97_lss]

Not sure it's worth the $. The stock ones have been holding up fine for me for over a year. I just keep a set of outdrive cups on hand and watch for wear on them. I put a few drops of white lightning clean ride chain lube on my cvd's after bashing on all my trucks. Doesn't attract dirt and adds a bit of lube for next time.