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Thinkin’ about having a baby…🤷🏻‍♂️😅

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I agree. I know ROAR functions as a sort if "tech brake system" meaning they regulate what changes can be put on a race track ultimately.
This is GREAT when it prevents ppl from cranking up timing to the point of blowing your motor EACH RACE in exchange for ULTIMATE performance.
Thats great if you're sponsered by Tekin but for the average racer, normal humans can't afford that. So we have classes and rules.
Equally it prevents "Team" racers from getting a better product than the rest of the ppl on the track.
Racing is fun until the other guy is cheating.
Completely outdated example but 7.2v vs 8.4v packs were NIGHT AND DAY different on the track!
Had to run 2 classes until ppl caught up...
They DO seem to be contradictory in the sense that chassis design, specificly for a belt or some shaft driven 4x4 would bennefit from a 2 small battery pack configuration on each side of the chassis rather than a single shorty pack that needs to be mounted higher and in the center so the belt can clear.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding why splitting the battery pack is bad but high mounting a pack and mounting weights all over the chassis is good?
Clearly, we no longer race on loose dirt. While preventing damage to a track surface could be a reason for "tall suspension" a well placed chassis skid would be effective too.
Obviously keeping your CoG low is ideal in high grip so...???
I don't get that rule at all.

Most of your pro drivers could win driving a dumptruck lol.. But they’re racing OTHER pro drivers that can do the exact same thing. Everyone is looking for that edge-it’s the nature of the beast. It IS racing…🤷🏻‍♂️🤣

Also cheating isn’t cheating until the rule book SAYS SO imo.. That’s how the class, racing, and the HOBBY progresses, and gets better. More capable, consistent, and more durable vehicles. That’s good for the masses-as EVERYTHING trickles down from the racing side, and always has.. I mean we would literally have NONE of the vehicles we drive, and give our left nuts to afford if it weren’t for competition.

It’s literally a running joke how bad ROAR is, and I get that you MUST Have a sanctioning body for sure, or it’d be MUCH worse, and they could do a STELLAR job of what it is they’re TRYING to do, and they’d STILL get metric tons of hatred from drivers.. That being said-it’s just blatantly obvious they need to do a better job with the constant contradictions of their own outlined rules, archaic rules that haven’t applied, nor even been achievable in years, rules based solely on personal opinion, and the vaaaaaaast amounts of grey area when they cause nothing but trouble for the drivers, as well as the manufacturers.. Like the “truck” body bs-if Agama showed an ultra clear advantage with their horizontal shocks front, and rear-they’d absolutely make them stand ‘em up like everyone else, or not allow them into their respective class; just like they’re doing with Tekno, and their bodies. 🤷🏻‍♂️😉
 
A "sanctioning body' that isn't doing their job(s) is most certainly doing more harm than good!
Our soviety (🤣🤣🤣 society, honest typo!) is FILLED with examples of over-regulation and brand favoritism.
This overbearing "we know what's best for you" horsesh*t we live in today is leaking in to our phones, tvs, cars and r/c's!
Maybe in this case better said, "We know whats best for you and you better listen because eventually we're gonna say something!"
 
@Littlemotor i see what you mean about the smaller scale that you want know makes sense

as for the truggy body thing, wasn’t it supposed to be a mix of buggy and truck body though? that’s why it covers shock tower? I get that the truck style body is better but doesn’t stay “true” to the intentions of the class I feel just my opinion though
 
@Littlemotor i see what you mean about the smaller scale that you want know makes sense

as for the truggy body thing, wasn’t it supposed to be a mix of buggy and truck body though? that’s why it covers shock tower? I get that the truck style body is better but doesn’t stay “true” to the intentions of the class I feel just my opinion though

To give you another perspective on the 1/12-1/14 truggy;

They both utilize 1/10 BUGGY rear tires at all (4) corners. And they actually look BIG on it lol.. This is one reason a LOT of folks that raced the CRT.5 in competition referred to them as “half truggy” because they’re literally HALF the size of a 1/8 when sitting next to one. 😳😉

IMG_5984.jpeg


On the 1/10 “mini-truggy” they run 1/10 STADIUM TRUCK rear tires at all (4) corners... They actually look quite a bit smaller proportionately speaking as compared to the 1/12-1/14…. It’s a pretty big difference… 😅

IMG_6008.jpeg



Regarding the history of the 1/8 “Truggy”, I was very active in 1/8 at that time. EVERYONE ran nitro in 1/8. There was nothing else. People would get into the hobby (or had been already) with a Nitro Monster Truck that was a lot of fun, but was FAR from durable, and didn’t handle worth a daaaamn.. As the natural progression (at the time) of the hobby took place, those folks got a chance to see, or drive a friend’s 1/8 nitro buggy. They “saw the light” immediately lol.. Faster, handled phenomenally, was EASY to work on, and FAR more durable. They spent the day DRIVING, rather than wrenching.. So they’d pick one up, and they had a ball. All was right with the world until they began missing the larger, more forgiving, back flip capable (still capable with a buggy, but much less rotating mass so…) monster truck… However-they didn’t want to give up the durability, and handling manners of their new best friend-the 1/8 nitro buggy..

Enter GS Racing… And I’m gonna just skip all the homebrewed attempts at “truggifying” (god I hate that word, because that process doesn’t come anywhere CLOSE to producing an actual truggy-just a delicate, wide AF buggy, that doesn’t drive worthashiit) because we don’t have that kind of time, and it’s not all that important… GS Racing brought out a BUGGY that was simply, proportionately LARGER, and the term “Truggy” was born. Simply because it WAS the bastard child of a Monster Truck, and a 1/8 buggy, so Truggy 😉.

This didn’t have a daamned thing to do with what body was on it, if it covered the towers, or the wheels. In fact-there we’re literally ZERO “monster trucks” that the body covered the tires, and they always covered the towers ONLY because that’s exactly what the ill fated body mounts were attached to. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Tekno saw this, and simply asked themselves, “Why?!?”, and while they still used mounts on the towers, they took the opportunity to produce a much more realistic “TRUCK” body, bring it tighter to the chassis, add a front end with more realistic appearing headlamps, (6) windows in an ACTUAL truck cab, and put a real deal BED back in the mix…

They did this for natural progression, and for COMPETITION. Plain and simple. It’s all they do-save for ONE monster truck platform (as they’re true to their roots, and LIKE TRUGGIES; that’s exactly where Tekno came from. Before their brushless conversions-they built option parts for monster trucks. 😉

This all equated on the track to faster lap times, better handling, faster trucks from a to b, FAR better jumping with no literal “parachuting”, and a body that outlasted the 20yr old stuff, 10 fold.

Now-all that being said…. I am definitely function over fashion, but ugly is ugly lol… When I first saw it-I just wanted to puke.. I was gonna buy a Leadfinger Strife or Patriot, and get rid of that thing.. UNTIL I DROVE IT.. it’s night and day. Flat out. Then I found that like literally everything-the new stuff grew on me. Now I could not imagine running an old JConcepts Illuzion body, or even the more “traditional” style LFR. I don’t hate on them though AT ALL. Let folks run what they want. Is it a massive disadvantage across the board? You better believe it-or nobody would care lol.. You’re allowed to like what ya want-just don’t take away what you don’t from others who like it.. Seems there was a guy in Germany years ago that thought that was alright…🤷🏻‍♂️😉
 
Where and how paint is applied does wonders to a body's lines. It just takes me longer to get used to the new body styles. I absolutely hated the ET410 stock body. Now, I think it's sexy. All depends on angles.

Back to "having a baby"... ever since this thread started, I'm getting ads for the LC Racing mini truggy all the time now 😁 . It's not a bad thing. I just feel like I stepped back in time about 11 years.
 
Where and how paint is applied does wonders to a body's lines. It just takes me longer to get used to the new body styles. I absolutely hated the ET410 stock body. Now, I think it's sexy. All depends on angles.

Back to "having a baby"... ever since this thread started, I'm getting ads for the LC Racing mini truggy all the time now 😁 . It's not a bad thing. I just feel like I stepped back in time about 11 years.
Wise words there for sure, and I completely agree. I’ve seen several paint jobs that make the ET2.0 lid look absolutely killer. By that same token-several that absolutely RUINED a Patriot, or S15..

One thing I am positive I’ll never get over is the kit body for the nitro buggy. I have TRIED, and just cannot get past it. Looks like it was fabbed up in the world of Minecraft, and somehow landed in our reality lol.. 😅🤮

Freakin commie phones man-I swear… I’m definitely digging that little critter though, I tell you what..😅🤩
 
Slap yourselves-it’s not like thaaaaaat, and y’all oughta know better…🤣

So I’ve been really missing my old Jammin’ CRT.5 1/12 nitro truggy, and thought I might pick up a used one, or even a BNIB untouched kit, but the sellers are outta there cotdaaamned minds.. I’ve been a huge 1/8 only, buggy/truggy guy for right at the last 20yrs, but I can honestly say that THE most fun I’ve ever had with ANY surface RC was my little Jammin’ CRT.5. It was new at the time, and absolutely LOADED with all the good stuff-BCE 7075 extended chassis, all the “PRO” 7075 aluminum goodies-steering plate, towers, c-hubs, hexes, rear hubs, Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles, aluminum shocks, Tony’s Screws, carbon fiber trinkets throughout, JP.5 hard coated pipe, and header, and a Picco Red Dot onroad .12 screamer..

View attachment 205497

I had really hoped to grab (2), and leave one nitro with a nasty little .12 onroad engine, and convert the other to brushless.. They’ve been outta production for YEARS, but the market was so flooded with them as they were soooooo much fun that you can still get even brand new in package parts for ‘em.. I don’t mind buying used, but I don’t want JUNK, and absolutely refuse to play into the “it’s crazy rare, and this is a killer deal” bullshiiit..

So I figured I’m beat on a capable/durable, and FAST mini truggy that actually handles like it’s bigger bretheren, and is nitro.. I decided let’s take a look around at a possible electric solution then.. Losi made the mini 8ight T 2.0, but again-i despise horizon, and they’re TERRIBLE to get parts for. Also not very durable as compared to the Jammin’ from years ago even.. Associated has the Reflex 14b, and 14mt, but they’re VERY delicate, and the build quality/design aspects are absolutely terrible-even coming from hardcore AE fanboi’s.. Dammit.. So OFNA’s cousin Hobao (which I’ve always liked tbh, and they make some surprisingly nice stuff 1/8 wise) makes a Hyper mini-ST 1/12 truggy… Also out of production, still a bit hit or miss to get parts for, and they are actually fairly pricey.. Plus they run a super weirdo pillowball front end arrangement (not like the standard Mugen, Sworkz, AE, or even Arrma), and all the lower suspension arms have a funky 20deg bend in them for added ground clearance.. It’s just weird imo.. Also still not nearly as durable as the baby Jammin’.. The Grom doesn’t check really any of the boxes for me, and I despise Horizon, plus they’re also pretty easily put out of commission if you’re jumping quite a bit (as I absolutely will be doing)… Well dammiiit..

Then I remember what the AE fanboi’s we’re going with to quench their mini buggy/truggy thirst; an LC Racing mini-truggy or mini-buggy..

They have a “Pro Kit” version of their 1/14 e-truggy that’s pretty damned nice. Handles like a big one, durable after adding a set of “hard arms” (that are a whopping $9 a pair 🤩), and building with the INCLUDED/optional cvd shafts in the rear to compliment the fronts rather than the standard included dogbones.. I’m a Tekin guy, but it INCLUDES a legit Hobbywing programmable ESC, and nasty little HW brushless motor as well. Even includes a steering servo that apparently works killer, but I’d upgrade it to a Hitec micro metal gear unit for sure. It uses 2.2 1/10 buggy rear tires all the way around, and the wheels come in at a measly $5 a pair. Even the factory clear body looks PERFECT…Fit, and finish have been bragged on hardcore with it everywhere I’ve researched..

The only two boxes it doesn't check for me is a center diff, and a nitro engine… I may very well be able to take care of that on a second one though, if I find that I do indeed like the first one I try out.. Pricing is FAR lower for a brand new kit than ANYTHING else I’ve considered, they are still in production, and parts support is KILLER, and INSANELY inexpensive. Also the slipper parts are ultra cheap to replace, and the general consensus is that they are TOP NOTCH, and work incredibly well (and for a long time to boot). There are some guys that even run them on an absolutely ABSURD 3s pack, and they have ZERO issues with the clutch-which has worked well for most even larger 1/10 rides.. Upgraded diff ring gears would be wise at that point, and are available cheap af. Also offered is a steel spur which I would do right off the bat. Also cheap. 🤷🏻‍♂️😎

And these things are dammiit FAST. 😳🤩

View attachment 205498

View attachment 205499

View attachment 205500

https://www.hobby-addicts.com/products/lc-racing-emb-tghkpro-1-14-4wd-truggy-pro-kit

So at this point literally my only hang up would be grabbing a can of easy off, and polish up the shock bits, a,b,c, and d blocks, hexes, steering arm, etc., and rip on it.. I just absolutely cannot stand red on my RC lol.. 🤮🤷🏻‍♂️😅

I feel like this will at the very least-tide me over until the RIGHT deal on a CRT.5 or two comes along, and I can have some fun in the meantime.. I do miss that little dude.. 🤩
Get the lcb12 kit, it has a center slipper and some better components in the kit that the rtr stuff. The Truggy kit is probably good, it’s the same chassis length and same car almost, minus the center slipper. Make sure you get the Truggy size motor (2848?). It’s stupid fast on 3s. I’m still experimenting with wheels that fit best. Obviously lcracing Truggy tires and wheels fit great.
image.webp


Or leave it as a buggy. It’s a great platform.
It’s an lc12b1- not called an lcb12 😆
IMG_5315.webp
 
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Get the lcb12 kit, it has a center slipper and some better components in the kit that the rtr stuff. The Truggy kit is probably good, it’s the same chassis length and same car almost, minus the center slipper. Make sure you get the Truggy size motor (2848?). It’s stupid fast on 3s. I’m still experimenting with wheels that fit best. Obviously lcracing Truggy tires and wheels fit great.
View attachment 205604

Or leave it as a buggy. It’s a great platform.
It’s an lc12b1- not called an lcb12 😆
View attachment 205606

I saw that one as well. You do realize the one I posted is a pro kit, and also has a center slipper clutch, yes? 😉 I talked all about those points in the OP.. 😅
 
From the pictures the link shows, it is the typical lcracing long wheel base car. The motor is in the rear, maybe it has the slipper but, what I meant to say was the lc12b1 has a mid mount motor and center slipper clutch.
It’s a good deal though especially with the hobbywing esc.

image.webp
image.webp


They be slightly different.

yikes he might need some ice for that one
No, I’m not hurt at all, my feelings aren’t hurt at all.
 
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From the pictures the link shows, it is the typical lcracing long wheel base car. The motor is in the rear, maybe it has the slipper but, what I meant to say was the lc12b1 has a mid mount motor and center slipper clutch.
It’s a good deal though especially with the hobbywing esc.

View attachment 205610View attachment 205611

They be slightly different.


No, I’m not hurt at all, my feelings aren’t hurt at all.
I gotcha now lol.. I personally can’t stand that they don’t just run a center diff is all-so that’s what I thought you were eluding to-that the little focker didn’t even have a center slipper..🤣 I wouldn’t even consider the thing at that point.. I guess I’m just trying to go as small, and light as possible. I feel like they actually makes some fairly decent quality small scale rides, and like ANY manufacturer; they’ve got faults here and there that will just require some attention/modification..

Yeah-I wasn’t at all trying to come across as shutting you down, or being a prick.. This is one of those cases where shiit just gets lost through text/keyboard is all. 🍻🤙
 
I gotcha now lol.. I personally can’t stand that they don’t just run a center diff is all-so that’s what I thought you were eluding to-that the little focker didn’t even have a center slipper..🤣 I wouldn’t even consider the thing at that point.. I guess I’m just trying to go as small, and light as possible. I feel like they actually makes some fairly decent quality small scale rides, and like ANY manufacturer; they’ve got faults here and there that will just require some attention/modification..

Yeah-I wasn’t at all trying to come across as shutting you down, or being a prick.. This is one of those cases where shiit just gets lost through text/keyboard is all. 🍻🤙
No worries!
Yea no center diff 🤷‍♂️. Either way, it’s a pretty dang good car! I haven’t wrecked mine too bad so I can’t say they are tanks, but the build quality of the components reminded me of Tekno stuff.
we all here just having a good time just trying to have fun you know?
Of course, no offense taken guys I promise. It’s all good.
I’m merely trying to point out:
The 1/14 truggy kit and the 1/12 buggy kit are almost the same car however one is a mid motor design, one is the rear mounted motor design.
Go with a kit, it’s a no brainer. RiptideRC had the better kits, Warren RC has the “phat bodies” and other accessories with a lot of good info in the item descriptions.
Also @Littlemotor , get the floating servo mount if you plan on swapping servos 👍
 
No worries!
Yea no center diff 🤷‍♂️. Either way, it’s a pretty dang good car! I haven’t wrecked mine too bad so I can’t say they are tanks, but the build quality of the components reminded me of Tekno stuff.

Of course, no offense taken guys I promise. It’s all good.
I’m merely trying to point out:
The 1/14 truggy kit and the 1/12 buggy kit are almost the same car however one is a mid motor design, one is the rear mounted motor design.
Go with a kit, it’s a no brainer. RiptideRC had the better kits, Warren RC has the “phat bodies” and other accessories with a lot of good info in the item descriptions.
Also @Littlemotor , get the floating servo mount if you plan on swapping servos 👍

Right on, right on..🍻

Yeah-Hobby-Addicts seems to have the best price I’ve found on the pro kit, with Warren RC/CasterRacing having the best customer service and possibly parts selection by far..

I THOUGHT I came across a guy with a 1/10 LC maybe (or maybe it was your 1/12-but he had done a center diff.. that would be something that could possibly steer me toward the 12, as it’d almost for sure be easier to adapt than the rear slipper/motor arrangement.. I’ll definitely dig deeper into that.. because if the electric gets the seal of approval from me, I just may grab another to bastardize with a nasty little nitro on-road .12 for it, and a CRT.5 pipe and fuel tank.. Which would of course require a center mounted center diff, and brakes setup.. 🤩

And thanks for mentioning the floater! 🤙
 
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