The "S" and "C" on LiPo

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Monkey Wrench

My last words will likely be, Crap that didn't wo
Supporter
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
5,811
Reaction score
231
Location
Cincinnati
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
Before I begin, I did search the forum first and I did learn what the "S" and "C" means on a LiPo battery, but am still unclear on a few points, so forgive me if this come across as newbish questions.

So, the "S" with a number preceding it indicates the number of cells wired in series. I get that from a battery standpoint, but what does it mean when seeing it on the box of a model? For example, at my LHS, I see boxes for Aarma 6S Krayton, or Felon or 3S or 4S. Does that indicate the max number of in-series cells that model can accommodate?

The "C" value is a bit more confusing. According to a post on this forum, it refers to capacity, but I thought MaH referred to capacity? Am I missing something obvious here? What's the difference between "C" and "MaH"?

I know the hobby is going electric and as a "nitro head" I need to learn as much as I can as I do want to get one of those Aarma rigs at some point, but I'm struggling to understand all of this. I have three rigs now that are LiPo (Axial SCX24, Losi Lini-B and Kyosho Fazer MK2) that I will, at some point, want to upgrade AND set-up to use my current TX (Spektrum DX3R, who knows, this may be an antique by now) but I am a newbie with all of this. Don't even start with chargers, IR, balance boards and such. My old brain can only take so much at a clip!

If anyone can help explain this in layman's terms, I'd be grateful!

20230204_141329.jpg
 
Before I begin, I did search the forum first and I did learn what the "S" and "C" means on a LiPo battery, but am still unclear on a few points, so forgive me if this come across as newbish questions.

So, the "S" with a number preceding it indicates the number of cells wired in series. I get that from a battery standpoint, but what does it mean when seeing it on the box of a model? For example, at my LHS, I see boxes for Aarma 6S Krayton, or Felon or 3S or 4S. Does that indicate the max number of in-series cells that model can accommodate? Yes you are correct.

The "C" value is a bit more confusing. According to a post on this forum, it refers to capacity, but I thought MaH referred to capacity? Am I missing something obvious here? What's the difference between "C" and "MaH"? Short answer. C is the discharge rate. The higher the number the more power it can transfer out to the motor. Hopefully someone else will be able to explain this one better than I am able to.

I know the hobby is going electric and as a "nitro head" I need to learn as much as I can as I do want to get one of those Aarma rigs at some point, but I'm struggling to understand all of this. I have three rigs now that are LiPo (Axial SCX24, Losi Lini-B and Kyosho Fazer MK2) that I will, at some point, want to upgrade AND set-up to use my current TX (Spektrum DX3R, who knows, this may be an antique by now) but I am a newbie with all of this. Don't even start with chargers, IR, balance boards and such. My old brain can only take so much at a clip!

If anyone can help explain this in layman's terms, I'd be grateful! Lipo batteries are easy once you get the hang of it. 2 main power wires, positive and negative. The balance plug is the smaller white plug. on a 2s pack it will have 3 wires. a black negative that goes to both cells. then the other 2 wires go one to each positive cell. this allows you to not just get the voltage reading of the pack as a whole but each individual cell. the white balance plug will plug into a balance board on your charger. when you do a balance charge on the charger it will make sure each cell has the same voltage. when it comes to lipo batteries, running the voltage too low on a cell can kill it. and it a cell is overcharged you could end up with a not so pretty flare. When i first switched to lipo and brushless i had the same feelings. its not as hard as it first seems. just different.

View attachment 160318
hopefully my replies in red above help some.
 
s on a model means the battery voltage the model runs on and the esc can handle

C on a pack is an indicator of how much current (amps) the battery can produce continuously and not explode or get ruined. A higher c pack will run a larger load than another pack with the same mA rating.
 
C is universal and can mean Capacity in terms of how much you can charge a battery where industry standard is 1C charge so a 650mAh battery = 0.65Ah where 1C = 0.65A charge rate

but in this context of the label which states 20C is related to amount of "Continuous" load that can be placed on the battery.

So using "Watts Law"... W = V x A

We can substitute the following for a 0.65Ah pack:
  • 2S = 8.4V (fully charged)
  • 20C = 20C X 0.65Ah = 13A
13A x 8.4V = 109.2W

That battery can support 109.2 watts of continuous power drawn without causing damage to the battery.

*** Some brands of batteries will change the definition of their "Continuous Rating" where they define 30 seconds as continuous so instead of rating the battery as 20C they will call it a 100C pack which is not a true continuous rating but technically a "Burst" rating where I feel they should call these 20C and 100B when it's a burst rating and not true Continuous....

Hope this helps!
 
Before I begin, I did search the forum first and I did learn what the "S" and "C" means on a LiPo battery, but am still unclear on a few points, so forgive me if this come across as newbish questions.

So, the "S" with a number preceding it indicates the number of cells wired in series. I get that from a battery standpoint, but what does it mean when seeing it on the box of a model? For example, at my LHS, I see boxes for Aarma 6S Krayton, or Felon or 3S or 4S. Does that indicate the max number of in-series cells that model can accommodate?

The "C" value is a bit more confusing. According to a post on this forum, it refers to capacity, but I thought MaH referred to capacity? Am I missing something obvious here? What's the difference between "C" and "MaH"?

I know the hobby is going electric and as a "nitro head" I need to learn as much as I can as I do want to get one of those Aarma rigs at some point, but I'm struggling to understand all of this. I have three rigs now that are LiPo (Axial SCX24, Losi Lini-B and Kyosho Fazer MK2) that I will, at some point, want to upgrade AND set-up to use my current TX (Spektrum DX3R, who knows, this may be an antique by now) but I am a newbie with all of this. Don't even start with chargers, IR, balance boards and such. My old brain can only take so much at a clip!

If anyone can help explain this in layman's terms, I'd be grateful!

View attachment 160318

"C" rating is basically how quickly the battery can discharge. The laymans way I was told to look at it is that a smaller C rating technically is like running smaller fuel line.

The biggest problem with this is there really isn't an industry standard measurement so most C ratings should be taken with a grain of salt.
 
Buy the highest c rating for what ever cell count your rig needs.

Example
Required 2s lipo 2000mah 7.4v
15c rating

In this instance you decide the amount you want to spend.

The S rating is voltage. Don’t change that until you know what you’re doing.


Now then, the C rating basically determines the quality of the battery. If the minimum C rating is 15C for your platform, a 30C battery will put out more amps and charge faster without damaging the battery.
In short buy the highest C rating you can afford.

Note: Different C rating packs will also have different dimensions.
2000mah 2s 15c will be noticeably smaller than a 2000mah 2s 30c.
 
Last edited:
Note: Different C rating packs will also have different dimensions.
2000mah 2s 15c will be noticeably smaller than a 2000mah 2s 30c.

Will you please show an example of this for 2 separate C ratings of the same brand?

In contrast to size, I typically see higher C ratings offer lighter weight (nominal) even though they are roughly the same size:


Another thing to watch out is HV (4.35V/cell) rated packs where they over state the rated capacity in that a HV pack marked 6Ah is actually a 5Ah pack when charged to standard voltage of 4.20V/cell.

I can see where comparing HV packs to standard packs can vary in both dimensions and mass.
You can see that this 6Ah (HV) pack is roughly the same size as the 5Ah packs above, the only reason the 6Ah pack can store more capacity is because the cells can be charged up to 4.35V/cell but that will require a HV charger to leverage the capability.
 
Ok, wow. Really appreciate the feedback and think it's starting to come into focus a bit. So I get the C rating is the the amount of power the pack can deliver to the motor and from what I surmise from responses, is the higher the better in comparison to the physical size of the space I can strap the battery to AND what the ESC can handle? So, to try and dumb it down to my "visual" learning mind, MaH is the gas tank (i.e. the amount of "electrical fuel" the pack can hold). The C rating is, to use @FJC_GUY analogy, the size of the fuel line (higher the number, more "electrical fuel" is pushed to the motor). These factors weigh in on what the motor can actually handle (i.e. pushing NOS through a 4-banger vs a V-8) and what the ESC can handle from a voltage standpoint (i.e. keeping the NOS hammered beyond what the engine can stand).

Have I fubared this analogy or am I kinda close?

Right now, to charge my LiPo's, I am using the little charger that came with my Mini-B that basically plugs into a standard cell phone "brick" and am using the small white connectors. Is that thing balancing them as well?

I know I need to invest in a proper charger and I have seen many suggestions on brands, but I'm not sure what else I need with it? For example,.the balancing jacks or boards or whatever they are called. Do they come with the charger?

It.can be overwhelming, so I am trying to digest this in chunks.

Again, my sincere thanks for the help and feedback! Hopefully I can repay the help if anyone decides to burn some.nitro someday!
 
Guys you get what you pay for. Stick with American backed products. So what are you needing batteries for? That is the best question.
 
Last edited:
Right now, to charge my LiPo's, I am using the little charger that came with my Mini-B that basically plugs into a standard cell phone "brick" and am using the small white connectors. Is that thing balancing them as well?

I know I need to invest in a proper charger and I have seen many suggestions on brands, but I'm not sure what else I need with it? For example,.the balancing jacks or boards or whatever they are called. Do they come with the charger?
I wont get into the whole C rating, S size, and MAH part, only because, i have never bothered to look that far into it. I have always kept it simple, and stuck with a middle of the road area in terms of those ratings. For example, for my 2S, since i only run 1/10TH scale stuff, all my batteries are a 50C of at least 5000MAH, and, i dont run much of anything bigger than that, except maybe the occasional 3S, but i still stick with a 50-75C 5000-6000MAH battery.

As for chargers, there are a ton out there, and some do the job better than others, so, that is all a matter of what you are actually looking for. However, anytime you are dealing with lipo's, i would worry less about balance boards, and worry more about safety. At bare minimum, you should not only have the charger, but should also have lipo bags for when you are storing and charging the batteries. Most would also recommend something like an ammo can that is fire proof, since lipo's can explode and catch fire. You should also always charge them at a storage voltage when you arent using them, because sitting fully charged or discharged isnt good for them, and, although some disagree, i recommend always balance charging them when you do charge them. That is what the little charger you have does when it charges them. Its actually, and, i could be wrong here, the biggest reason for the little white plug, is to balance charge them, and for testing them with a lipo tester, which is something else i recommend you get. Typically, i will balance charge them to store them, and, then fully charge them the day i plan on using them.

These are the lipo bags i usually get: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Fire...ocphy=9005776&hvtargid=pla-965790198382&psc=1

This is the charger i use, but, i actually dont have that many batteries, so, i dont need anything bigger (i actually have 2 of these, so i can do 2 batteries at once, since i have never been a fan of balance boards myself): https://www.amazon.com/ICQUANZX-Bat...011&sprefix=imax+lipo+charger,aps,120&sr=8-28

This is the lipo tester i use: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Volt...1676448559&sprefix=lipo+tester,aps,103&sr=8-9
 
Will you please show an example of this for 2 separate C ratings of the same brand?

In contrast to size, I typically see higher C ratings offer lighter weight (nominal) even though they are roughly the same size:


Another thing to watch out is HV (4.35V/cell) rated packs where they over state the rated capacity in that a HV pack marked 6Ah is actually a 5Ah pack when charged to standard voltage of 4.20V/cell.

I can see where comparing HV packs to standard packs can vary in both dimensions and mass.
You can see that this 6Ah (HV) pack is roughly the same size as the 5Ah packs above, the only reason the 6Ah pack can store more capacity is because the cells can be charged up to 4.35V/cell but that will require a HV charger to leverage the capability.
I would disagree that higher c rating batteries with same capacity are lighter, actually is the opposite. Some with more experience like greywolf can confirm. There is always different factors so it may not always be the case, but in general higher c packs tend to be heavier.

Biggest problem is that now everyone claims different c numbers that are unrealistic. 120c packs would mean that even if there is no losses it would completely discharge it's capacity in 30 seconds?

It seems that this days it's really hard to find the best battery for bashing. I have found that some batteries may not have the best performance but don't puff even when abused. Or some don't puff from sitting a long time. Some puff when exposed to high temperatures but other don't.

I have a bad habit of leaving lipos in my car, although Chicago is not that warm, but inside the car gets hot. I like liperior batteries, awesome performance but the like to puff. Venom and lectron, terrible performance but don't puff in higher temperatures. Traxxas batteries handled hi temp the best, 0 puffing and was exposed to the same temperature like liperior that puffed significantly.

An example, couple years ago me and my friend drove his 26 inch 2s brushless boat with multiple batteries. One was cheap 18$ 5000mah stick pack. Bad performance, kind a heavy, no punch. Second was 27$ 4600 mAh gforce shorty from value hobby. Very good performance. At the end battery was relatively cold. Third was 60$ protek 4600mah shorty. Best performance, it was flying, but battery puffed like a balloon.
 
is the higher the better in comparison to the physical size of the space I can strap the battery to AND what the ESC can handle?

Right now, to charge my LiPo's, I am using the little charger that came with my Mini-B that basically plugs into a standard cell phone "brick" and am using the small white connectors. Is that thing balancing them as well?

I know I need to invest in a proper charger and I have seen many suggestions on brands, but I'm not sure what else I need with it? For example,.the balancing jacks or boards or whatever they are called. Do they come with the charger?

I would encourage you to read the following thread, lots to absorb here:

In theory the "Relative Amps" ( C Rating * Amp Hours) would state the following batteries would perform identical:

120C-2Ah = 240 rA
60C-4Ah = 240 rA

The reality is that capacity tends to trump the C rating where the 4Ah pack in the above example will tend to hold voltage better under load.

Here's a battery discharge graph I made a while back to help you see some comparisons I made where I also discovered that age of a battery also effects performance, the Y axis is voltage on a set of 2S packs with various rA values where most brands I tested were fairly consistent with their C ratings at the time I ran these tests (roughly 5 years ago)

More info on how I made this discharge graph here:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/sho...a-battery-discharger&perpage=100#post40308838

1676474146255.png






Guys you get what you pay for.
This is definitely not the case with MaxAmps, more info here:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3342095-MaxAmps&perpage=100#post42146361

There are plenty of hidden gems out there as illustrated here:
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/lipo-comparison-thread-lipo-and-nimh-aas.136829/#post-1368906


I have grown to rely on Zeee brand batteries for open mod classes, but I will pay a premium for Trinity White Carbon batteries to get the best possible performance and longevity when racing in stock classes where low IR is critical.


I would disagree that higher c rating batteries with same capacity are lighter, actually is the opposite. Some with more experience like greywolf can confirm. There is always different factors so it may not always be the case, but in general higher c packs tend to be heavier.
Which is why I was asking for specific examples... I provided examples which suggest the opposite. I agree there will be outliers but I feel it's important to compare batteries within the same brand as manufacturers may assemble packs differently which can skew your opinion.
 
Ok, wow. Really appreciate the feedback and think it's starting to come into focus a bit. So I get the C rating is the the amount of power the pack can deliver to the motor and from what I surmise from responses, is the higher the better in comparison to the physical size of the space I can strap the battery to AND what the ESC can handle?
Generally speaking yes, this is correct. Couple of things to point out here:

1) C rating can also refer to the maximum amount you can safely charge a battery at too. For example most LiPos these days (at least the bigger 1/10 scale and larger packs) are usually rated at a 5C maximum charge rate. This is independent of the actual discharge C rating which is always printed in big bold numbers some where on the pack. The max C rate for charging is sometimes listed on a pack but more often than not it isnt. Even when it is its usually some fine print somewhere on the pack.
*SIDE NOTE* C rating in terms of charging doesn't necessarily deal with the max rate. It can more generically just refer to the rate at which someone is charging a LiPo. For example if someone says "I'm charging my 5000mAh lipo at 1C" then they are charging that LiPo at 5A. If they say 2C then they are charging it at 10A.

2) Discharge C rates are grossly over rated and there is no standardization of testing for C rating determination so it is possible to have a 4S 5000mAh 100C LiPo that is actually less capable compared to a 4S 5000mAh 60C LiPo from another company. Also in both cases those C rating are grossly exaggerated. The foremost experts in the world in regards to Lithium Polymer battery technology approximate that the battery technology itself maxes out at somewhere around 45C. There are ways/tools to test for True C rating. All of that being said though feel free to think of it in terms of the higher C rating the better as that is generally a true comparative statement. Just mention this for the sake of awareness. Why is it like this? Because marketing exists...


So, to try and dumb it down to my "visual" learning mind, MaH is the gas tank (i.e. the amount of "electrical fuel" the pack can hold). The C rating is, to use @FJC_GUY analogy, the size of the fuel line (higher the number, more "electrical fuel" is pushed to the motor). These factors weigh in on what the motor can actually handle (i.e. pushing NOS through a 4-banger vs a V-8)
This is essentially correct. I would probably say that C rating is more like the amount of pressure the fuel lines can withstand before being damaged and that the size of the fuel lines themselves would be the size of the battery wires but really I'm splitting hairs here. Either analogy fundamentally works.

what the ESC can handle from a voltage standpoint (i.e. keeping the NOS hammered beyond what the engine can stand).
Minor point but just be aware that not only does the ESC have a voltage limitation but also an amperage limitation as well.

Have I fubared this analogy or am I kinda close?
Close enough for gubment work :)

Right now, to charge my LiPo's, I am using the little charger that came with my Mini-B that basically plugs into a standard cell phone "brick" and am using the small white connectors. Is that thing balancing them as well?
I've never used the stock charger but if its charging through the small balance adapter then it should be balancing them fine.

I know I need to invest in a proper charger and I have seen many suggestions on brands, but I'm not sure what else I need with it? For example,.the balancing jacks or boards or whatever they are called. Do they come with the charger?
I would suggest (and so will others on here) a good starter charger is the HOTA D6Pro which you can get from RaceDayQuads for $118. This not only has all of your essential charging function but other tools as well like the ability to read IRs etc. Its also nice because you can start with it on AC power and if you grow in the electric side of the hobby and find yourself wanting more power it can be paired with a DC power supply to provide even more power than AC. Its also about the cheapest charger you will find in its class.

It.can be overwhelming, so I am trying to digest this in chunks.

Again, my sincere thanks for the help and feedback! Hopefully I can repay the help if anyone decides to burn some.nitro someday!
Just keep firing away with questions/clarifications bro. You'll get there. It is a lot to digest at first. :)
 
I would encourage you to read the following thread, lots to absorb here:

In theory the "Relative Amps" ( C Rating * Amp Hours) would state the following batteries would perform identical:

120C-2Ah = 240 rA
60C-4Ah = 240 rA

The reality is that capacity tends to trump the C rating where the 4Ah pack in the above example will tend to hold voltage better under load.

Here's a battery discharge graph I made a while back to help you see some comparisons I made where I also discovered that age of a battery also effects performance, the Y axis is voltage on a set of 2S packs with various rA values where most brands I tested were fairly consistent with their C ratings at the time I ran these tests (roughly 5 years ago)

More info on how I made this discharge graph here:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/sho...a-battery-discharger&perpage=100#post40308838

View attachment 160339






This is definitely not the case with MaxAmps, more info here:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3342095-MaxAmps&perpage=100#post42146361

There are plenty of hidden gems out there as illustrated here:
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/lipo-comparison-thread-lipo-and-nimh-aas.136829/#post-1368906


I have grown to rely on Zeee brand batteries for open mod classes, but I will pay a premium for Trinity White Carbon batteries to get the best possible performance and longevity when racing in stock classes where low IR is critical.



Which is why I was asking for specific examples... I provided examples which suggest the opposite. I agree there will be outliers but I feel it's important to compare batteries within the same brand as manufacturers may assemble packs differently which can skew your opinion.
Yes, but problem with most off brands is that if they claim higher c, it may not be higher c in reality. For example, chnl 70c black series is a truly high c battery, in comparison to the racing series that they claim 120c is much worst.

I will compare a spectrum battery 3s 50c vs 3c 100c. It's nearly 100g heavier

Screenshot_20230215-143524.png


Screenshot_20230215-143624.png
 
Generally speaking yes, this is correct. Couple of things to point out here:



2) Discharge C rates are grossly over rated and there is no standardization of testing for C rating determination so it is possible to have a 4S 5000mAh 100C LiPo that is actually less capable compared to a 4S 5000mAh 60C LiPo from another company. Also in both cases those C rating are grossly exaggerated. The foremost experts in the world in regards to Lithium Polymer battery technology approximate that the battery technology itself maxes out at somewhere around 45C. There are ways/tools to test for True C rating. All of that being said though feel free to think of it in terms of the higher C rating the better as that is generally a true comparative statement. Just mention this for the sake of awareness. Why is it like this? Because marketing exists...

I can't do the math to back it up but I fully believe that just based on my wiring experience. Even a 6" run of 10 gauge with a 90amp rated connector on it would get hot very quickly if you tried to push the over 200amps many of these batteries claim to be able to produce through it.

I use the same packs in my bashers as my crawlers so they are all rated for the bashers. Sometimes I won't use a pack when I'm out crawling so I come home and throw it in the Vorteks. I will just do some rips up and down the street until it hit's LVC which takes about 10 minutes max on a 5200 pack.

I do know that when I dump a battery through the truck like that the wiring and connectors definitely warm up a bit.
 
Thanks for sharing that example, I found an article here which might help explain why you're seeing the extra mass:
https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=174_175

SMC said:
...For example our True Spec Premium V2 series, Extreme Graphene series packs use oil in the cells formulation to help lower the internal resistance which increases the power of the cell. Cells that have oil tend to have more natural expansion then cells that don’t....Recently we released our True Spec DV series, These cells use water and no oil in the formulation....The down side is the internal resistance of the cells is a bit higher so the performance is down.

I'm thinking that packs without fluids may be lighter but may also have lower C ratings and packs filled with fluids may be heavier but may have varying level of increased C rating depending on the type of fluid being used.

I don't typically buy packs less than 100C anymore which is why I haven't noticed the difference in mass, but I appreciate having a greater understanding how the chemistry properties have changed to enhance the performance of the packs.
 
Thanks for sharing that example, I found an article here which might help explain why you're seeing the extra mass:
https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=174_175



I'm thinking that packs without fluids may be lighter but may also have lower C ratings and packs filled with fluids may be heavier but may have varying level of increased C rating depending on the type of fluid being used.

I don't typically buy packs less than 100C anymore which is why I haven't noticed the difference in mass, but I appreciate having a greater understanding how the chemistry properties have changed to enhance the performance of the packs.
I don't have a lot of technical knowledge but I think higher c batteries tend to be heavier because of thickness of cathode or anode. Also big factor is materials used. We don't know what chemistry rc lipo use, but in electric cars different manufactures use different ratios of materials like graphite, silicon, cobalt, aluminum, and different ratios in anode and cathode gives different properties.

When it comes to c rating claimed I don't pay attention at all. I feel like it's similar like so called loudness war in music, especially in the 90s. Because if recording is louder than people have a perception that is better, but cd has only a certain resolution and dynamic range. So everyone was making louder recordings at expense of reduced dynamic range. It's the same with lipo, they can print anything, and even from the same brand like I mentioned chnl, 70c outperform 120c by a lot
 
I don't have a lot of technical knowledge but I think higher c batteries tend to be heavier because of thickness of cathode or anode. Also big factor is materials used. We don't know what chemistry rc lipo use, but in electric cars different manufactures use different ratios of materials like graphite, silicon, cobalt, aluminum, and different ratios in anode and cathode gives different properties.

When it comes to c rating claimed I don't pay attention at all. I feel like it's similar like so called loudness war in music, especially in the 90s. Because if recording is louder than people have a perception that is better, but cd has only a certain resolution and dynamic range. So everyone was making louder recordings at expense of reduced dynamic range. It's the same with lipo, they can print anything, and even from the same brand like I mentioned chnl, 70c outperform 120c by a lot

My "loudness rating" is based on the gear I see being ran locally... if the majority of fast guys are running Trinity White Carbon (TWC) and they let me test a spare pack and I confirm my lap times are faster than my previous brand of battery then I'm gonna stick with the TWC... until someone else shows up with something faster (or louder, ha!) then that's what I have to base my observations on :)

When it comes to open mod classes then I'll pinch my pennies with Zeee packs which tend to last about 2/3 as long as TWC but are priced close to 1/3 as much making them more cost effective even though they don't perform as well nor last as long.

Lots of variables to consider where I prefer to compare "Cost Per Watt / Depreciation" when I buy into a brand of battery for mod classes but stock, the only thing that matters is performance and most people in my area are willing to pay whatever it takes to have the best performing battery.
 
Last edited:
My "loudness rating" is based on the gear I see being ran locally... if the majority of fast guys are running Trinity White Carbon (TWC) and they let me test a spare pack and I confirm my lap times are faster than my previous brand of battery then I'm gonna stick with the TWC... until someone else shows up with something faster (or louder, ha!) then that's what I have to base my observations on :)

When it comes to open mod classes then I'll pinch my pennies with Zeee packs which tend to last about 2/3 as long as TWC but are priced close to 1/3 as much making them more cost effective even though they don't perform as well nor last as long.

Lots of variables to consider where I prefer to compare "Cost Per Watt / Depreciation" when I buy into a brand of battery for mod classes but stock, the only thing that matters is performance and most people in my area are willing to pay whatever it takes to have the best performing battery.
Yes, I agree 100%.

You recommend pb blaster in other thread as the best tire sauce. Is it odorless or it has a strong odor? It works better than anything else like sxt or yellow liquid wrench?
 

Similar threads

Back
Top