Team Associated B74.1D 4WD buggy build 2.0

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Are you sure the axle crush tube is not missing
Hmm. Ill check that once I wrench on my car again
Ill put those on order just in case. I also have the drive cup pin retainers in the cart too. I think when the bearing exploded, one of the metal parts of the bearing got seized on to the pin retainer, or unless its just discoloration.

Planning on do some rebuilding and maintenance anyways so ill put those on order, and grease stuff up.
Got front hub axle crush tubes. Ill see if I am missing them in the hub, if so ill put them in.
Also got front CVA pin retainers.
Going to the track Monday for practice and test n tune. This is the last time I can go to a track until Late March for Beach RC (spring break) and actually haven't been to a track since Christmas break.
Also bringing the slash and mini b.
Going to see if I can dial in my RC8X radio back how it was and see if I fixed all the issues. I went back to 1.1.5 and haven't had issues but I need to get my settings adjusted back. Since then RadioLink put out 1.2.0 and 1.2.3 firmware updates, I'm not updating again, I will leave my radio as is.
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Just got done wrenching and packing up. Charged 2 Mini B batteries and my Tx battery. Ill charge other batteries when I get there in the morning.
Found that a rear ballcup for the turnbuckle cracked so I replaced that. I would just have to check camber and ride height tomorrow.
Replaced the front CVA pin retainers and axle crush tubes in the front hubs, also a dab of red/tacky grease behind the hex and see if that helps.
When working on that, I found the front left hub, inner bearing shot again. Its always the left side and inner bearing that i have issues with. Idk what to do. Replaced bearings, replaced hubs, axle crush tube, wheel hex, stub axle. Idk if I am doing anything wrong. If I see another bearing explode or my hub getting worn, I might get a ceramic bearing kit (to help with that and do make me go faster / less resistance on the drivetrain) and upgrade to the ecotek aluminum hubs for it.

Also, just for fun, here is how many spare parts I have currently for the car. Most of it is normal suspension arms, shock towers and stuff like that.


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Have you tried reaming the hub so it wouldn’t squeeze the bearing out of round? Sorry if I asked before, I skimmed through the previous posts in this thread and couldn’t spot it being mentioned.
Have you tried reaming the hub so it wouldn’t squeeze the bearing out of round? Sorry if I asked before, I skimmed through the previous posts in this thread and couldn’t spot it being mentioned.
I think you mentioned it before. I have not. I should though. But I don't have tools like that.

You might already have the necessary tools in your garage. The valve nuts of a bicycle inner tube are the perfect size, and the knurled surface bites into the plastic – without being too aggressive.

Thread two of these on the valve stem and jam them together in opposite directions and you have a reamer for the job.
Did well for practice today. Nothing broke. No traction roll overs. Consistent lap times. Surprising as I was out for a while. Ran 4 battery packs.


Getting the following:

Glitch buster cap
Sway bars 1.0mm-1.3mm set
Front bumper
Front bumper screws
Wing mount / buttons
Wing button screws

Excited about Beach RC and spring break coming up in a week.
random pics
esc fan died, negative wire pulled out. Gonna get a spare one from my uncle. But ill test it out and see if I don't need a fan. Usually my esc stays cool







Oh yea, radio issues. Was working for a few hours trying to fix it. RC8X radio, was on 1.1.5 firmware. Upgraded and freshly installed the newest 1.2.5. Also redid my receiver wiring. The signal got better slightly. Can't ideally test it. Hopefully the signal dropping issues are fixed. Getting a glitch buster just in case and see if that helps.
Those fans come apart. Good time to learn how to tear into one. The blade should just pull off the shaft. You can clean it out. Pull that sticker off the back. See if you can access the board to solder that wire back on.
Very nice radio. Feeling in your hand wise, touch screen and features wise
Which radio is that again? Is that the one you broke the trigger on and had the firmware problems? I love that screen.
The one I broke the trigger on, that was my older RadioLink RC4GS V3. I super glued it back on last year and is still holding up great.

This radio is my RC8X. Once I updated the radio back in September, I noticed having issues. I updated the original firmware (idk which one it was) to V1.1.8. I noticed RadioLink took it off the website a few weeks after I updated. Makes me wonder if it has to be something with that 1.1.8 firmware. Because since then I went to 1.2.0 and then downgraded to 1.1.5 and haven't noticed anything different. Has the same issues. Main issues are signal dropping and the poor signal quality. Even from like 40 to 60 feet away. And thats why my car cuts out when I am in the farther sides of the track. If I hook up my old 4gs, I have no issues and signal is all good and strong.

Left is 4gs and right is RC8X

RadioLink support isn't really that helpful. I know a couple people are going to get rc8x radios and going to test the radios and stuff and actually try to help RadioLink find the issue. Because people, my self included been having these issues for more than 6 months now.

So that's why I learned to not update things.
The other day I updated to the latest 1.2.5 firmware and re wired my receiver setup so I'll see how it is at the track next week.
Tomorrow. Gonna wrench and get it back up and running good (hopefully)

Rebuilding F/C/R diffs and F/R shocks.

Front Diff: 10K
Center Diff: 200K
Rear Diff: 10K

Rear shocks:: 35wt and blue springs
Front shocks: 40 or 45 (depending on what I have) and red springs. (will change to yellow springs at the track and see how it feels)

Going back to the OEM sway bars. The ones I have now are way to thick and meant for carpet. Got replacement ones as the kit ones I bent.
Can't remember which sway bar is which but I got the 1.0 to 1.3mm sway bar kit. Gonna have to look in the manual.

And after set camber and ride height and I am all set

Current setup (somewhat a carpet general setup as I really didn't want to change things before) :

Front Diff: 15K
Center Diff: 500K
Rear Diff: 15K

Rear Shocks: 35WT / Blue Springs
Front Shocks: 50WT / Red Springs

Front Sway Bar: 2. something
Rear sway Bar: 2. something

Note to self: I should use the Sodialed app to keep track of my setups. Lol
Got my glitch buster cap in. Ill see if it will help fix issues. Pretty sure it has to be the radio itself. But just in case. To prevent brownouts. Zip tied it to the battery strap. should hopefully stay secure.