Taking off in 2nd gear.

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bondslayer

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OS. 21 vzb big block, big block pipe, factory gears. I bought the revo used for $275, it had been sitting on a shelf for two years with enough fuel ran through it to break in the 3. 3 motor. We (my business partner and I) also purchased a tmaxx that has been upgraded to all 3. 3 drive train for a total of $475. Seller thought the tmaxx motor was dead, glow plug and out on and ez start and we walked away. With 2 amazing. Trucks for one I sane price.

Ok this is the revo problem. Full roll cage just because I enjoy taking it off 4 foot ledges etc. I made the mistake of adding reverse before I found this forum and realized big block trucks don't like having reverse!! Needless to say the servo for reverse locked up, yes, froze up after the first two minutes of run time, no problem. Just learn how to drive better etc. Now the. 21BB has about a gallon of fuel through it, about 1/4 gallon ago we began to do some minor tuning (improvement and lack of improvement takes place here) now first I made a very minor adjustment to lean the main carb as after 5-7 minutes of putting around and then doing a WOT pass, I had a decent amount of exhaust shopping out. Leaned it out and it really seemed to make a difference all across the board in a positive. Way. Now after about 2-3 tanks through it with the setting, the local hometown usa fellow comes to the shop to look at buying my revo. ( word of mouth about a big block conversion in a basically brand new revo, and his intentions were, I am lord of the rings, I work for hometown ill give you $500. Mind you I oaid $120 for the. 21vbz with 6 break in tanks of fuel ran through it, it was adult driven /maintained, (meaning the owner didn't have to put 30% nitro fuel on a stock glow plug, original junk radio /servos and want to see how hot he could get the engine). Ran the motor for 2-3 min at a time, made sure piston wasn't at TDC, cool down and repeat. So I sold my factory 3. 3 and ez start with one of the spare starter wands that came with the truck for $120, I broke even but instead now have a big block and a starter box. Now back to the tuning. Hobby town came over and said " its instantly shifting into 2nd gear ", I honestly didn't think it was coming out of 1st into second when in reality, it would stay in 1st till about maybe 15-20mph, I'm guessing here, let's say for example red line was 38k rpm, it is shifting into 2nd while WOT at 21k rpm, a lot of oomph missing, I was to busy going donuts in a gravel pit to not pick what I thought was a bad mamma mamma. Another problem occurs now, I'm drifting, trying to keep it between the lines on the gravel at WOT, it goes to shift into 2nd and bogs down, sputters, and dies, first real problem ever while the truck was warm and what I thought was running great. Here comes captain planet:\ now mind you I built my first rc truck as a kit when I was 14, took me a lot of yard mowing and time waiting on order to build my dodge ram, then I would buy atmaxx 2. 5 drive it, sell it and get a new one, did this three times and left the RC world for a gpod 6 years. Now back to the truck shifting into 2nd at a low rp, sputtering:angry:, logging and it died. Now this instantly informs me or leads me to believe the glow plug, factory OS. Plug had been through a rich break in period, it was probably time to step up to an OS -P7 plug, but not just yet, and remember now, this is going on my 5 tank of fuel with the leaner adjustment and I hadn't had a single problem. Instead of captain America saying, hey you glow plug isnt firing to its full potential, doing tuning with a bad plug will require re tuning when you put in a new plug,:( captain:\ let's richen up the low end hobby town whips out his trusty screw driver and squads like yoda when he takes a dump, and now it seems the richened up low end solved my problem! Wrong.:first_place: got home and rolled the truck backwards and it sounded like grinding, it didn't sound normal at all, andI remembered I changed the setting on the crappy factory controller (2. 4 ghz with link and futaba servos in the mail) I moved from 50/50 to 70/30. I remember buying a case of beer and at 2am wondering why my truck took forever to stop, when 10 beers earlier it stopped on a dime, but now that the recycling bin is getting a work out the truck won't stop? Oh yah, I tightened up the Allen head bolts for the is it called a slipper clutch, or big disc brake in middle of truck. I back it off a few small turns evenly on both sides, :p: Sweeeet, sounds goooood. Now this is when, last Saturday;) yes the day before Easter I remember family is coming over and I can entertain the boys with the truck and the girls /mom can cook, so i want a glow plug, closest shop, (I live around the Dallas Texas area, Allen/Plano to be exact but work in mckinney) is 21 miles each way, cool, spend $11, got a new OSP-7 and put it in, started instantly, sigh oh relief ! Now I notice I need to put the truck around, moderate, ease into half throttle to warm everything up, even running slow to moderate for 1 solid minute from a cold start, if I go WOT, it tries to shift into 2nd hangs up, sputters, and kicks it back into first as the lack of shifting, sputtering has caused a decreased speed, there for were back in 1st gear!! Now if I put the truck around with light to medium throttle for a good 2-3 min only on a cold start, after this amount of time can I go WOT and hear a crisp smooth shift into 2nd, but this time I could hear it was shifting far to early, and if it wasn't dropping into first gear when slowing down to a crawl or complete stop, as I would instantly go WOT and its laggingg a bit, but about 15-18k rpm it takes off, tires are balloning out, truck wants to sprout wings and fly, but no shift! I also notice a good bit of white smoke shooting out check exhaust even after 10 minutes of run time, from a dead stop from the second I go WOT until I let off, early shift, smoke indicates to me its still to rich, I leave the setting alone and hear a different sound than normal :whhooo: it seems to be idling 3-4x higher than ever before, checked linkage for any hang ups, nothing, tap my finger over the hotter than Katy parrys ass of an exhaust a few times and idle comes down. I stop it, piston isn't at tdc, and inspect, and decide to play with the transmission shift point. Just to make sure a bear really does poop in the woods:p: I adjusted a small turn for earlier shifts ( verifying the arrow with directional arrow for later shifts is in fact correct, and yes, a bear does poop in the woods, it shifted into 2nd going 6mph. Pull ol:third_place: back into the pits, adjusted back to factory, and a 1/16 or close to it turn for later shifting, and I really like the performance I see now! Adjust it one more small turn for later shifting and take it for a drive. Takes off like pamela Anderson does her clothes for anything with an antenna the size of a traxxxas, but shifting into 2nd a bog hesitation, this same hesitation for 2-3 back to back dead stop to WOT pulls, on the 3-4 WOT it isn't a smooth, but its winding out like it should, and shifting into second, it just isn't snappy like I'm used to feeling taking my drag truck down the 1/8 or 1/4 mile. This is about the end, thank god my hands hurt from holding this phone, I hope some hometown employees read this and offer tips, info etc. :first_place: I. Now the damn idle is now always 3-4x higher, there is no such thing as the revo sitting still, and the adjustment on the controller for throttle used to be in the middle and it would still at idle, now with it all the way counter clockwise the truck will move on its own unless I apply the brake. When I take off from a rolling start or frok brake to WOT, it takes off in 2nd, no low end torque, can't do a wheelie to save my life. If I do a full out Sprint and let the transmission slow the truck I can hear it kick into 1st as its slowing down, still the high idle, take off and wheelies for as long as I want but I keep it on the ground, bad for 4x4 valve train to do wheeliesss, and it shifts into 2nd just at the right time and runs like a raped ape.

Why is my idle so much higher and I can get it to tone down by blipping the exhaust or letting the transmission slow the truck down, but not when I apply the brakes?? Hometown super warrior said it isn't really a big deal if the truck leaves in 2nd, uhm hello, who owns the truck again?? Oh yah I do, almost forgot. I'd like to haul ass off the line and hear the trans shift into 2nd and have spectators say "wow even a two speed transmission". When hobby town :angry: richened up the bottom end before I put in through new /hotter burning glow plug cause the idle to go up and in a sense with the idle being high causing the truck want to drive unless I apply the brake and causing it. To take off in 2nd gear??? When its leaving in 2nd, I can blip the throttle and get it to. Down shift into first, wheelie, and then at the perfect time it shifts Into second... what the fudge!!! Help a newbie out, I've been writing this for Almost an hour on my and really was as derail oriented as possible. I liked the fact I was able to unglue all of my tires with the old glow plug running rich, I even ripped a section out of the rubber tread on a back tire exposing the foam.

Is the high idle causing the truck to leave in 2nd gear, why can I mess with the throttle. And get it to shift down into first and then a flawless shift into 2nd??? Could the adjustment to richen up the bottom end play a factor in the scenario??

Bring it on guys!! I didn't type and correct spelling errors for an hour on this complicated HTC evo instead of my alienware laptop just for fun, well I did, I've used 70% battery typing this.

Chris Morris
Lead sales QWA
chrismorris04 at gmail dot com
 
its sounds like the primary clutch is not releasing in the transmission when you take off at a certian rpm the primaary clutch flys out and cacthes the side of second gear and it takes over then when you slow down the clucth retracts therefore letting it go back to first it sounds like the clutch is not retracting to me therefore stayin in second gear
 
How do I diagnose and fix this?
 
take tranny apart firstgear will be right on top be carefull theres a little teflon washer on top of it u dont want to loose it first gear should pull right off then u should be able to see the pirmaryclutch it has two little meatal arms that come out and catch second gear seeif there still ingauge if they are then the clutch is shot theres a little pin that locks it to the shaft u will to take the smaller gear off first which is held on by a curv lock pin pop it off with a screw driver and theres a little pin in the push it out and the small gears will come off and then your second gear should come off and push the little pin out of clutch and shaft now the cluth should come off there about 14 dollars and that should fix it just remeber how it came apart so u can put it back togeather the curve pin just holds the little pin inside the shaft so it doesn't come out
 
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I'm in the process of upgrading the servo's and radio right now. I don't feel comfortable taking the trans apart honestly, unless I can physically see it taken apart and put back together. I'm a visual learner:p You listed pretty detailed instructions, I might just go ahead and give it a whirl. Don't they offer metal gears for the transmission?? Upgrade as things break, with the exception to upgrade to futaba digital servo's and a better radio!
 
you can go on traxxas web site and pull up the blow up view of the transmission and u can down load it or just view it but its shows every little detail i didnt know myself when i started out but now i know how to tear the whole truck down and put it back togeather just remember how it comes a part u should be alright
 

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