t maxx trans

[nikko508]

hey guys what's up, I'm hoping someone can help me, I just got done putting my 3.3 t maxx together and the transmission will not shift into reverse gear I took the transmission apart and looked at it everything seems to be working okay I did see the forward and reverse gears with the shift claw I'm thinking I misadjusted those claws can somebody help me to tell me if this is what is wrong with it when I shift from forward to reverse the truck continues to go forward if I shut the truck down and restart in reverse the truck goes in reverse sometimes it gets stuck in neutral I need to know what the proper adjustment for that forward and reverse gear paw should be thanks for your help

 

[Snook Man]

There really is no baseline setting for the forward and reverse output gear pawls. They should be adjust to where they will open at a certain rpm of the gear, not too much more than a little above a good idle speed of the engine (once the clutch engages the clutch bell and the spur starts to spin. They should also be adjusted tight enough that the pawl will retract back into the gear once the clutch shoes disengage the clutch bell and the spur stops spinning.
A high idle speed (spur gear spinning at idle or just enough that the clutch shoes are dragging the bell to keep a little pressure on the spur and transmission internals) will cause the pawls to remain open wedged against the pin in the inner clutch bell and not allow them to release. If the pawl does not release, the shift servo can not move the inner clutch bell (safety feature) on the shaft to cover the other output gear.
If it is an adjustment of the clutch pawl you are having, it would be too loose/not enough tension on the spring that controls the pawl.
An incorrectly adjusted servo linkage can also created/add to the same problem but a high idle speed is the most common issue.

 

[nikko508]

Thanks for the info but I have the eng running at the lowest idle it can run at I understand completely what Ur saying but I need to know if I should go tighter or looser from wher I have it right now and how much, how do I know at what rpm do the paws start to engage and disengage is there a rule to the adjustment or do you keep removing the trans until its right.

 

[Snook Man]

Your symptoms would indicate the adjustment screw would need to be tighter.

Somewhere around the area of the top of the adjustment grub screw even with the threads in the gear (just below the countersunk portion of the hole) should get you very close.
The bullet pin (the spring pushes against the pawl) and the sleeve in the gear are easily damaged if you bottom out the adjustment screw.

 

[nikko508]

Ok i will give it a try and see what happens thanks for the help I will let you know what I come up with thanks again

 

[nikko508]

Ok I tried what you said didn't work I took the trans out and turned the adjusters all the way in and it doesn't shift. Is the trans different for the 1.5 to the 3.3 the truck was a 1.5 and I swaped it with a 3.3 that's the only thing I can think of. The claws won't go down when on idle I can hear them in the trans when I shut the truck down and move it back and forth I see the linkage go in place. What now.

 

[Snook Man]

Remove the pawl and pin from the output gears and replace the pin with a grub screw pin like the one that attaches the wheel shafts to the diff. Problem solved, just don’t switch from forward to reverse and vise versa while the truck is moving afterwards.

 

[Ballen]

when i went from a .15 to a 3.3 i did the foc it is a pain when you run into a bush .but you an't suposed to hit them unless you are going really fast and can go over them .just hope there is no cinder block in the middle ,that hurts.lol

 

[nikko508]

Are you thinking thr bent,? I was moving the claws by hand when the trans was apart and they worked fine,

 

[Snook Man]

Are you thinking thr bent,?

No, not thinking they are bent. I think either your idle speed is too high, shift linkage is not correct or there’s a problem with the clutch fork/inner clutch bell assembly.

If you install the screw pin like in the pic (it’s called the No Buck mod) with the pawl(s) removed, it simply can not get in the way anymore. The pin goes through one of the holes of the inner clutch bell when it is moved over the gear and is then a constant engagement eliminating the low speed bucking.

 

[nikko508]

You are a guru it worked great than you so much for your input.
One final question is this mod going to make the truck always moving in the direction of the gear I'm in ie: foward/reverse

 

[Snook Man]

Yep, unless you accidentally install your diffs upside down some day.

 

[nikko508]

Thanks dude